BadFish523

There are a couple parts you can use certain aftermarket versions for slightly cheaper. The parts that need to be OEM are: Phasers, tensioners, and VCT solenoids. These OEM parts have been updated a couple times so the problem doesn't continue, they are also a few of the more expensive parts when doing this job. If you do decide to do or have this job done the best advice is to do it ALL and do it RIGHT the first time.

BadFish523

Doing an inspection first would be a good idea. With poor OCI there could be lots of sludge which can inhibit oil flow and oil flow is very important for the VVT system. Ultimately for oil flow/pressure is usually the cause of this problem. Normally it is caused by two things: blow tensioner seals and/or broken chain guides that have fallen into the oil pan and are clogging the oil pick up tube.

ex0r

Of course. I am not a mechanic, but I am extremely OCD with making sure things are done correctly when I do do them.

One thing that I couldn't figure out from the guide, is this: it mentions lining the chain up with the marks on the phasers, and on the crank sprocket below. I'm assuming from previous work i've done on other vehicles that the sprocket and the cam phaser/sprocket is keyed so it can only go on one way. If the engine is not cranked over in a position when you install the sprockets for all of that to line up, what are you supposed to do? I wouldn't image it would be safe to turn the cams individually and also turn the crank individually so that they do line up, but I could be incorrect in assuming that.

BadFish523

I can't answer that question but there are a few members on here who can. I can't remember which members are good with the details of the timing but hopefully they'll chime in sometime.

ex0r

Sounds good, thank you.

ex0r

Interesting find, I think. My father just called me and told me on his way home from work today, he had his ride drop him by my house to look at the truck. He got in it, turned it over and it started right up, no knocking, idled fine, and he was able to back it out of the driveway so he could turn it around and back it INTO the driveway. He also noticed the oil pressure gauge was higher than it was yesterday (it was reading normal today). It seems that it only acts up once it's warm, and when it cools down it starts operating again. If the timing itself were screwed on it, would the symptoms only occur once the truck is warmed up and has been running for a while? I know the phasers auto-adjust the timing so it's possible they are still bad but don't show symptoms until it's warm, but was wondering if that's usual for it to act the way it does only when it's warm.

BadFish523

Yes, the symptoms of a VVT problem in these engines is more prevalent when warm. My truck made no sounds until it was warm. Also the oil pressure gauge in the dash is nothing more than a "dummy" light. Anything above 7psi (which is not enough to properly run the VVT) will read in the middle or normal range. If it drops below normal range it is very low!

redfishtd

Plastic clogs oil pickup ,remove it and clean it . Very hard to get all pieces out of there . Thats a sure indication it needs a timing job . And yes a full timing job is around $1300 by you.Oem select ebay is a good source.
Junk yard engine no good ,best to do timing job right. and clean engine real good.You can do it with help on here ,its aggravating but not much in the way of special tools needed .
But this engine has to have good maintenance as the cams are controlled hydraulically with dirty engine oil thru small filters and small passages. Oil changes under 5k and full synthetic . I run one quart marvel mystery oil as a slow cleaner .
If he won't do that then its all for nothing .

ex0r

IF I go through with redoing all of that work, I'll end up making sure it's cleaned thoroughly anyways. I'm meticulous with cleaning and doing things right when I actually do do them so I wouldn't be going into it blind or half-assed. On another note though, do you have the answer to my above question? If the timing is off, that means that one or more of the timing marks on the chain+sprockets isn't going to be aligned right. I would think the sprockets are keyed so they only go on the cams and crank one way. If they are out of alignment, how do I re-position them so they are in alignment? Once the chains are disconnected, am I able to freely rotate the cams? From what I've seen in other timing jobs and work I have done, you can't just rotate them independently like that without damaging the internals of the engine.

ex0r

Well, it looks like it is a timing job after all. (Either that or an electrical problem). I didn't get the valve covers off, but I did manage to get both VCT solenoids out. One looked brand new (passenger side), the drive side was still OEM. I replaced both of them just to be safe (since I would have to anyway after a timing job), and the problem still persists. Come to find out, the code was on bank 2 (driver side) to begin with, not the passenger side like I originally thought. Either way, it's still an issue.

Next step: find out if he wants to dish out for a new motor, or a new vehicle.