ECM Confusion
Over the last couple of days, I have drive the truck a bit. This afternoon, it had a hard slip/engage at around 50mph. No check engine light came on. If the ECM isn’t reset yet through the drive cycle, will it throw a warning light?
A previous problem that I thought was cured from servicing the transmission appears to have shown back up, except this time it is without the check engine light.
This is discouraging
A previous problem that I thought was cured from servicing the transmission appears to have shown back up, except this time it is without the check engine light.
This is discouraging
I did the plugs right around 110k. Just the plugs. The truck was driven steady and consistently with a lot of highway mile driving due to work up until about 187K. The truck was not driven nearly as much over the last 2 years, so perhaps that could be it. I will start throwing money at it in regards to plugs, maybe getting a scanner, and whatever else I can think of before pricey endeavors.
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Joined: Jul 2018
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From: upstate NY
I'd go with the cheaper boots/springs option first, but keep receipts in case you need to return and buy the full coils. Try and at last figure out which cylinder is misfiring, buying one coil is cheaper than 8. If you want an economical solution, you can get a full set from Autozone for $200... they won't last as long as the MCs, but have a lifetime warranty and should last for as long as you'll likely keep the truck at this point.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: North Jersey
This. At 77k on those plugs, it's not throwing money at it to buy plugs and boots... it's maintenance, a tune-up. Boots/springs may be all you need, but it's not unheard of to have coils fail. The one in my plow tractor fried last summer, and the one in my Olds failed after replacing the alternator (change in current killed it according to my friend who's an electrical engineer).
I'd go with the cheaper boots/springs option first, but keep receipts in case you need to return and buy the full coils. Try and at last figure out which cylinder is misfiring, buying one coil is cheaper than 8. If you want an economical solution, you can get a full set from Autozone for $200... they won't last as long as the MCs, but have a lifetime warranty and should last for as long as you'll likely keep the truck at this point.
I'd go with the cheaper boots/springs option first, but keep receipts in case you need to return and buy the full coils. Try and at last figure out which cylinder is misfiring, buying one coil is cheaper than 8. If you want an economical solution, you can get a full set from Autozone for $200... they won't last as long as the MCs, but have a lifetime warranty and should last for as long as you'll likely keep the truck at this point.
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1,285
Likes: 296
From: upstate NY
When you pull plugs, the offender misfire should be discernible, but the easiest thing would be to scan it. The PCM will tell you.
8 plugs and bolts/springs is the better place to start, though. It’s time.
If it were me, I’d go ahead and replace all 8 coils though. By this point one could be bad, or a few could be weak... I don’t like to let ignition parts go high mileage, I replace all 6 on my SUV and all 5 on my wife’s car every 60k (they don’t have the boot/spring set up the Fords do) ever since I lost a coil at 80k on the SUV. I replaced all 8 coils on the Ford with the Autozone ones, replaced one under warranty 500 miles into it, and then was good for another 15k miles when I again replaced all 8 with Ford MC ones again simply because I could, not because of issues. I’m sure the AZ ones would have taken the truck to 200k miles though, I just don’t like surprises. There have been guys with bad experiences with non-Ford coils though.
8 plugs and bolts/springs is the better place to start, though. It’s time.
If it were me, I’d go ahead and replace all 8 coils though. By this point one could be bad, or a few could be weak... I don’t like to let ignition parts go high mileage, I replace all 6 on my SUV and all 5 on my wife’s car every 60k (they don’t have the boot/spring set up the Fords do) ever since I lost a coil at 80k on the SUV. I replaced all 8 coils on the Ford with the Autozone ones, replaced one under warranty 500 miles into it, and then was good for another 15k miles when I again replaced all 8 with Ford MC ones again simply because I could, not because of issues. I’m sure the AZ ones would have taken the truck to 200k miles though, I just don’t like surprises. There have been guys with bad experiences with non-Ford coils though.
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 75
Likes: 6
From: North Jersey
When you pull plugs, the offender misfire should be discernible, but the easiest thing would be to scan it. The PCM will tell you.
8 plugs and bolts/springs is the better place to start, though. It’s time.
If it were me, I’d go ahead and replace all 8 coils though. By this point one could be bad, or a few could be weak... I don’t like to let ignition parts go high mileage, I replace all 6 on my SUV and all 5 on my wife’s car every 60k (they don’t have the boot/spring set up the Fords do) ever since I lost a coil at 80k on the SUV. I replaced all 8 coils on the Ford with the Autozone ones, replaced one under warranty 500 miles into it, and then was good for another 15k miles when I again replaced all 8 with Ford MC ones again simply because I could, not because of issues. I’m sure the AZ ones would have taken the truck to 200k miles though, I just don’t like surprises. There have been guys with bad experiences with non-Ford coils though.
8 plugs and bolts/springs is the better place to start, though. It’s time.
If it were me, I’d go ahead and replace all 8 coils though. By this point one could be bad, or a few could be weak... I don’t like to let ignition parts go high mileage, I replace all 6 on my SUV and all 5 on my wife’s car every 60k (they don’t have the boot/spring set up the Fords do) ever since I lost a coil at 80k on the SUV. I replaced all 8 coils on the Ford with the Autozone ones, replaced one under warranty 500 miles into it, and then was good for another 15k miles when I again replaced all 8 with Ford MC ones again simply because I could, not because of issues. I’m sure the AZ ones would have taken the truck to 200k miles though, I just don’t like surprises. There have been guys with bad experiences with non-Ford coils though.
Looking for direction on which coils and plugs I need with my engine being the redesigned head (after 10/2007). Looking at Rock Auto, I noticed some of the gaps are different based on the color boot. Example the MC SP509 with a gap of .041 versus the Champion 7406 with a gap of .044. If I recall, I had black boots. Also, I’m leaning towards replacing the coils, but am trying to find an economical solution considering the truck isn’t my daily driver. I know the MCs would be the suggestion of most, but am seeing if there are other options.
Thread Starter
5 Year Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 75
Likes: 6
From: North Jersey