ECM Confusion
Is this what you are referring to? Would I HAVE to obtain a scanner to do this?
I think you need to study each not ready point and research how to get it satisfied . You may need different speeds/highway driving etc , you haven't driven it enough for it to complete and get up to temperature. fail that then go to an expert like eric o on/South Main Auto Repair LLC you tube . he is an excellent diagnostic guy and he has a shop in new york state . You could waste a lot of money chasing this using a run of the mill shop . He has some diag guys down your way also .
It's probably showing the P1000 code which simply means that the PCM has not completed all its test cycles; this happens every time the battery is illuminated. The P1000 doesn't throw a code, nor is it possible to clear with a scanner, as that in and of itself would create another P1000 code. Simply, the OBD2 has not completed everything it is supposed to, nor will it move to the next test until any previous test is completed. In a nutshell, speed, acceleration, and coasting need to be mixed with 45 mph "highway" and stop and go cycles; my first inspection failed for this reason after replacing the coils (unhooked and pulled the PCM to do so) and cleared with 100 miles of apparently perfect conditions. My next time (which again occurred soon after the timing job and therefore battery/PCM removal) took almost 1000 miles of driving in order to clear, and even then there was still 1 test yet to be performed (NYS allows one to fail and still pass inspection).
Sounds like the shop is going after an easy money grab... can't blame them much as they lose money on every inspection they perform.
Sounds like the shop is going after an easy money grab... can't blame them much as they lose money on every inspection they perform.
I've heard the EVAP takes the longest to complete. On another thread someone said theirs took 5 weeks before all conditions were met. I currently have the P1000 (2 weeks now including a 500 mile round trip at highway speed) and i think the outside temp might be too cold for EVAP to complete now that it's below freezing, not really sure if outside air temp matters though.
Thank you all for the help.
From further research, along with the help you guys provide, my guess is that I am far from completing the drive cycle in terms of miles driven and sequence in doing so. Again, the truck runs great, no issues or warning lights, so it wouldnt make sense for the ECM to be bad. I have a 140 mile round trip work commute that is well suited for driving variances pertaining to speed changes and driving style changing. Hopefully a couple days taking the truck to work will help the situation.
From further research, along with the help you guys provide, my guess is that I am far from completing the drive cycle in terms of miles driven and sequence in doing so. Again, the truck runs great, no issues or warning lights, so it wouldnt make sense for the ECM to be bad. I have a 140 mile round trip work commute that is well suited for driving variances pertaining to speed changes and driving style changing. Hopefully a couple days taking the truck to work will help the situation.
Not sure if you have a shop that'll do it, but my inspection station told me to stop in a few times and they'll check the readiness before inspecting it. The final time is when they said all cleared but one, but was ok to inspect.
Some scanners will show whether the readiness modules have cleared or not; methinks TorquePro does, and I just ordered a top-end Zurich from HF that is supposed to as well (TP is too much of a PIA to connect with the BT dongles on my various vehicles, keeping the Android charged for that purpose, etc. so I broke down and took advantage of Black Friday deals). That way, you can monitor progress yourself, see which module is the hang-up, and research what type of drive cycle is needed to clear each stage.
Some scanners will show whether the readiness modules have cleared or not; methinks TorquePro does, and I just ordered a top-end Zurich from HF that is supposed to as well (TP is too much of a PIA to connect with the BT dongles on my various vehicles, keeping the Android charged for that purpose, etc. so I broke down and took advantage of Black Friday deals). That way, you can monitor progress yourself, see which module is the hang-up, and research what type of drive cycle is needed to clear each stage.
"Sometimes all the criteria seems weird" is deinately right. The battery disconnect during replacement cleared readiness flags - and you probably have a P1000 code that just means all readiness tests haven't completed again - at least ONCE. 175 miles may well not be enough - without 'conscious effort' to set things up for the tests to complete.
For Example.
Misfire monitor routine will not eveb run - until will not run if crank tone ring profile is not learned in Keep Alive Memory. That requires THREE 'fuel cutoff' decelerations from 60 mph down to below 40 (touching the breaks will abort the test).
EVAP monitor is about the worst one - it will NOT EVEN START unless intake air temperature is above 40 degrees f. and below 90 degrees f, fuel level is > 15% and <75% and engine cold soak is satisfied (about 6 hours). (That can causee you wait until spring in certain areas). Also ECT has to be above about 175 degrees.
And there are a bunch of others. If you have or have access to Torque Pro scanner app - you can remove all doubt and monitor all the individual ones --- such as detailed in this post.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/how-use...-truck-432417/
For Example.
Misfire monitor routine will not eveb run - until will not run if crank tone ring profile is not learned in Keep Alive Memory. That requires THREE 'fuel cutoff' decelerations from 60 mph down to below 40 (touching the breaks will abort the test).
EVAP monitor is about the worst one - it will NOT EVEN START unless intake air temperature is above 40 degrees f. and below 90 degrees f, fuel level is > 15% and <75% and engine cold soak is satisfied (about 6 hours). (That can causee you wait until spring in certain areas). Also ECT has to be above about 175 degrees.
And there are a bunch of others. If you have or have access to Torque Pro scanner app - you can remove all doubt and monitor all the individual ones --- such as detailed in this post.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/how-use...-truck-432417/
EVAP monitor is about the worst one - it will NOT EVEN START unless intake air temperature is above 40 degrees f. and below 90 degrees f, fuel level is > 15% and <75% and engine cold soak is satisfied (about 6 hours). (That can causee you wait until spring in certain areas). Also ECT has to be above about 175 degrees.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/how-use...-truck-432417/
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/how-use...-truck-432417/
There is a work around on that one with the temp IIRC, which requires the vehicle to "go to sleep" and not be touched, even unlocked, but at least a day, and meeting other parameters; probably the reason why my winter inspections were always the most troublesome, as it never sat that long.
EDIT: Found this http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html steps 13 & 14 talk about the bypass procedure after parking the truck for 8 hours.
Last edited by isvend; Dec 6, 2019 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Added info







