ABS has to be programmed back into the computer !! ??
#1
LightningRod
Thread Starter
ABS has to be programmed back into the computer !! ??
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Also, I have the ABS and Brake light on, on the dash. I went to Oreilly's to see if they would clear the fault, but their tester was broken, I then went to Autozone, who wouldn't even hook up their tester, because of some law that someone somewhere got sued. I proceeded to Quick Lane (local Ford owned service dept) and they said they couldn't do it, but I could get it done next door. I went next door, and the fella there said that my ABS had to be programmed back into the computer.
Does this sound right to any of you?
...
Also, I have the ABS and Brake light on, on the dash. I went to Oreilly's to see if they would clear the fault, but their tester was broken, I then went to Autozone, who wouldn't even hook up their tester, because of some law that someone somewhere got sued. I proceeded to Quick Lane (local Ford owned service dept) and they said they couldn't do it, but I could get it done next door. I went next door, and the fella there said that my ABS had to be programmed back into the computer.
Does this sound right to any of you?
Like @vintageman said in the first response to your problem - "having to reprogram ABS back into your computer" sounds like mechanic-speak for "I DON'T KNOW".
My experience might be applicable.
My 2004 F-150 Lariat 2wd has exhibited a habit of luminating the ABS light periodically all its life. After replacing a sensor (without fixing the problem) - I noticed the air gap between the tone ring and the ABS sensor seemed excessive (5/16" +). With a little experimenting, I found that the 'tone ring'to be PRESSED on the front wheel hub - and that it would move with a iron pry bar and a hammer. I banged the tone ring back toward the sensor all around the hub until it had about 1/8 inch clearance all around and BINGO. NO ABS LIGHT.
It has happened again on that wheel - AND on the other front wheel. Again with the same FIX. The 'tone ring' "WALKS" from its pressessed on position for some reason?
Since then, I have found the OBDII parameter ID's (PIDs) for reading the ABS tone ring signals on the wheels, and can check them if the ABS light comes on. You can tell WHICH wheel is not registering.
If your friend with a scanner / code reader can input custom
PID information you do not even have to crawl under the truck. Read PID # 3987, with the OBDII command header of "ABS". The response is four bytes long as follows: A= Wheel 1 (LF) speed, B= Wheel 2 (RF), C=Wheel 3 (RR) speed, and D=Wheel 4 (LR) speed. [[ in reality wheel 3 and 4 are dummied as BOTH are derived from the tone ring on the transmission output shaft. But same difference as long as it is producing a speed reading]].
Maybe this will help.
The following 2 users liked this post by F150Torqued:
Fordjunkync (01-06-2017),
garden spyder (01-05-2017)
#3
A back story on this for those who weren't following along in the "last fix for 5.4" thread.
I replaced oil pump, sprockets, chains, tensioners, rails, cam phasers, and vct solenoids. I had never had a check engine light, or brake light on the truck before, but did have to remove the computer in order to get the valve cover off. After putting it all back together, I pulled it out of the garage and let it idle for a bit while I moved vehicles around. I pulled it back to its parking spot, and that was when I noticed the lights on.
Now every time I start the truck, within a second of starting it, before pressing the brakes, before putting it in gear, the lights come on solid and stay on.
Thank you for your info, I will certainly put it to good use, and let you know what it was I found when completed, in order to help someone else out with the same problem.
I replaced oil pump, sprockets, chains, tensioners, rails, cam phasers, and vct solenoids. I had never had a check engine light, or brake light on the truck before, but did have to remove the computer in order to get the valve cover off. After putting it all back together, I pulled it out of the garage and let it idle for a bit while I moved vehicles around. I pulled it back to its parking spot, and that was when I noticed the lights on.
Now every time I start the truck, within a second of starting it, before pressing the brakes, before putting it in gear, the lights come on solid and stay on.
Thank you for your info, I will certainly put it to good use, and let you know what it was I found when completed, in order to help someone else out with the same problem.
The following users liked this post:
F150Torqued (01-05-2017)
The following users liked this post:
garden spyder (01-06-2017)
#7
Ok, so as weird as it may seem, I found a burned fuse. I cannot imagine why it would have blown at the same time that I did the other project. It may have had something to do with hooking the battery back up, and shocking the system. Thank you for your help!
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#8
I replaced the fuse and tested, all tested fine, next morning, (cold morning) I started the engine, and the lights came back in. I had some spare time at work, so did a little research. I found it was fuse 14, which is connected to numerous items, but I found a thread here at F150 forums that showed the PCV heater wires get bare, and short out causing the blown fuse problem. I looked under the hood, and that is exactly what I found under the hood, bare wires touching each other.