as soon as I read about the rumble strips I was thinking coil connector, had a similar thing happen in my Lightning back in the day. Of course I was 500 miles from home when it started doing it. It would do it, clear up and be fine then repeat until finally it never reconnected

 

Just a little tidbit to bring a smile. He’s been out there running since 1949!
Thinking he might like a place to warm others hearts too.
And it names the engine too.
so Smile @digitaltrucker……..,Ed

 

The reflection around the “XLT” had me worried the chrome was bubbling.
had to go back outside to check it out…..
nice shiny smooth chrome…,and reflections.

i think the RR did it

 

So today I got around to doing a leak down on cylinder 8, since it seems to be one of the regular offenders for the 5.0 valve issue. The results if I did it right, is not good! I could hear air coming out of the throttle body, which is not good!

 

Bummer Ed.
as a reminder, it’s a 13 5.0 with 150k miles yes?

ok 165k miles

 

now you know about staking the valves,
The how to and why one might wish to try?
or???
Your thoughts on head swap, cams, lifters, phasers, nuts & bolts to front cam chains, gears and oil pump…basically everything from the oil pump to head gaskets and every thing in between.

FYI
ive seen buildable gen 1 head cores here in Dallas going for $180 ea….stripped..
I don’t know the value of reground cams.

 

Yep 169K on the clock! If I am truely doing this right and I have a valve issue, at least I have the satisfaction of knowing that it is something out of my control versus caused by poor maintenance.

I do not know about "staking" and will look into it. I guess finding someone in Houston area would be the task? My compression tests were as follows: 1.) 150 2.) 145 3.) 150 4.) 155 5.) 155 6.) 152 7.) 152 8.) 160. I assume at this kind of mileage, that these are good? I've thought about heads, but as we know, the truck is aging and putting good heads on an old block has me thinking no.

I'm going to find a local shop to do a complete leak down test, just in case I did it wrong. Not sure if I may have been "off" a little on the TDC of #8 which caused the leak.

 

How far are you from NASA Houston?
reason I ask is to put a known good differential compression tester in your hands.
i have an A&P/IA about 1/4 mile east of their South Gate.
that or I could loan you mine.
You would need to be 90 degrees off the compression stroke to have intake valve leak…,,.unless you have a sticky valve..
suspect intake valve seat recession. A $15-$25 fiber optic camera down the spark plug hole to take a few images…even a video of the valves would be in order.
I also suspect you did a good job doing the compression test.
the pressure you posted were not too bad…the whistling in the intake was the big alert!

when you search on staking valves. One of the best explanations as to how and why is an article in Van’s Air Force.

but I would start looking for a cheap fiber optic camera and use your
Mark 1 eye.

 

I am in Katy area. Are you talking about the Leak down tester tool? The one I bought is Matco Branded and is new. But.........

 

That’s probably the same thing.
here is an example
https://www.aircraft-tool.com/Detail?id=2EM-KIT

the key bummer is you heard whistling in the intake.
so
find a camera…. In the $15-$30 range delivered
here is an example not an endorsement. I usually choose ebat and a local USA vendor
…there are quite a few in the Houston area.
now these are available in
wifi version
blu-tooth
Or usb.,,type A to type C. And I bet for another $20 to Apple, one with a lightning connector.

I use the WiFi version and it works on the laptop running win95-win10 and on the iPad.
havent tried on tha android cell yet.