I keep getting a P0111 Code so I think it's time to replace something. Will replacing the MAP

sensor on the intake probably fix this? I have attached a screenshot of the forescan DTC reading.

 

Well, there are 3 MAP sensors on that motor, there are videos showing them all and where/how to clean them. That error suggests it's not the first one as it specifies the bank.

 

I've cleaned them before and the code did go away for a bit but it has been recurring more frequently now. When I had forescan up last night the IAT reading was 1.27v

 

1.27v sounds low unless we're talking about an underperforming AA battery. Can you go old school and check the voltage at the connector with key on engine off with a voltmeter. If it's well above 1.27 at the connector, it's probably the sensor..

 

If cleaning the sensors didn't solve the problem, maybe it is time to replace them.

 

There are three temperature sensors on the air intake system of that engine.

After a cold soak of at least 6 hours, the PCM, on wake-up, checks the three of them to see if they correlate with each other. The P0111 sets when the IAT on the air filter housing disagrees with the other two by at least 30F. An IAT reading of 1.27 volts correlates to a detected temperature of about 145F. Unless the engine had been cold-soaked, it's going to read higher than ambient when monitored.

Cleaning temperature sensors is usually not productive since the thing will still read the correct temperature if dirty, they will just be slower to respond.

Pull up the PIDs for the three sensors on the cold-soaked engine (ignition ON, engine not running) and monitor them while wiggling and tapping on them to see if there is a loose connection or if the sensor responds to shock. Check connection to suspect sensor for any circuit concerns. If none found, replace the suspect sensor.

The reference to a "bank" in the DTC description is unfortunate since there are no air temperature sensors for the individual banks of the engine.

 

I did alittle checking last night. I checked the voltage at the connector and it was around 5v. I pulled up the values and it looks reasonable as the truck had been off about 3 hrs but it was still pretty hot out. I'll look at it again tonight but on the attached graph the jump seen was when I was moving the wires on the Intake sensor that is just past the air filter. I left the graph running that sensor was jumping around (more wide range) than the other sensors so I'm not sure if the sensor itself is bad or if the connection is bad...


The second IAt listed is the 2nd temp sensor according to Forscan

 

Well i think you've found where to be looking then - let us know how it goes.

 

Your vertical axis scale is so tight on some of those that any little squiggle in the voltage will look huge on the live data graph. Need to normalize the scales to be the same otherwise the graph is likely to be misinterpreted.

BTW, the AAT sensor is the one on the passenger side mirror used for the HVAC system. It's not used for the engine management.

You should looking for the IAT1, IAT2 and the one at the output of the intercooler as well as the CHT (if you want to determine engine/head temperature also). The PCED calls that third one the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) temp sensor, while the EVTM calls it the Turbocharger Intake Pressure and Temperature (TCIPT) sensor, if I'm reading all this correctly. I have no idea what it might be called in Forscan.

 

Unless I'm misinterpreting this graph, the AIT2 voltage corresponds with your 120F readout, but AIT1 temp is a little low for that same voltage. So that would make me think sensor. The small voltage spike on your wiggle test would make me think wiring/connector. I know what I would change over doing further resistance checks between connector and PCM harness, but I suffer from Parts Cannonitis...



Here's a link with some good pdf's:

2012 IAT sensor wiring diagram | F150 Ecoboost Forum