Hope it works for you, keep us posted

 

Yea I never considered that the 2012 has DRL. That might interfere with automatic lights. Good luck and let us know.

 

From all I read, the DRL interfers with the auto light function if installed after the fact. I know a few from Canada tried this and it wouldn't work because the DRL was messing with the amount of voltage or something and they would get flicker or only one would turn on.

I was worried but I ordered mine and it works great on my 2010. I also noticed that I gained the slow dim dome light and cargo light (they would just go off before) and the headlights staying on for about 30 secs after the truck is locked.

 

Well I added the switch and sensor and got pretty much the same results that other folks that have 2011 and 2012's got. As soon as the key is turned on the lights come on at what appears to be 100% and then they stay on for about 30 seconds after the key is turned off. If the lights were at 80% as DRL's are supposed to be I would leave them as is. There must be something in the Computer that needs to be reset, and further more I would guess that there is a technician that knows what must be done. I know that there has to be people that add the auto headlight feature later and get it to work. It actually seems that the sensor is having little or no efffect.

 

Same results I had. Local dealer said I was SOL. They said that there were no settings to turn on but didn't reflash the computer. They didnt charge me anything at least. I haven't talked to any other dealers. I agree though, surely some tech knows something and has a definite answer.

 

Whatever changes they made between 2010 and 2011 is the reason.

 

Yep, that's what mine do.

But I am going to swap the sensor from my 2011 Mustang and see if it makes a difference ... but I'm not holding out a great deal of hope. So far I've been to lazy to bother since the lights do most of what I want (turn off without bothering with the switch).

I wonder if it's possible the OTHER end of the sensor wire simply isn't plugged in? That would be too easy...

 

There was indeed several changes made to the 2011 and up Ford F-Series trucks in wiring and module programming.

If you have a base truck, chances are there is no wire, but check anyway.

Locate the black chicklet sized plug at the center of your instrument panel top near the windshield. Gently pry that part up. If there is a wire attached to that plug you can install automatic headlamps with the correct sensor and correct headlamp switch. It will NOT work properly until FORD activates the modules. YES! Ford can do it.. I had them do it... YES! they can turn on/off daytime running lights (DTR) if that is not required in your area. States like Florida require the headlamps to come on with the wipers, while other states do not. Some states require low beam headlamps on 24/7, so that must be programmed into the modules. Once the modules are properly set according to your state of registration, whey will work fine.

You can find the necessary parts at http://www.TascaParts.com/
Simply fill out your vehicle information and VIN
search for sentinel sensor, then headlamp switch
it will pull up the correct parts for your Ford vehicle

The correct sensor should be ordered depending on what type A/C control you have. If you have automatic temperature control (ATC) you would order that sensor. If not, order the sensor W/O ATC

You should have checked for the sensor wire already, it is plug and play, remove the solid black chicklet holding the two pin wire, then install the sensor by attaching the wire and snapping the sensor back into the same location.

To remove the headlamp switch. Remove the side dash cover panel driver side. Gently pry away from the bottom front corner, it is a snap-on part no screws. Using the new headlamp switch as a guide, locate the three plastic tabs that will need to be depressed to slide the switch out from the front dash panel. Release the wire harness from your old headlamp switch and plug it into the new headlamp switch. Push the new headlamp switch into same location. Replace side panel dash cover by snapping into place.

Having a friend in the business helps, else you will need to pay a FORD tech to program the modules and check for proper operation. Fees vary by dealership but any dealership can do it.

I added this feature to a 2011 F-250 XLT, had it programmed and it works perfectly. The F-150 uses the exact same parts.

 

That's good news! I installed the auto headlight switch a couple months ago and have the situation where the lights are on anytime the key is on, if in AUTO mode, which was better than nothing. I just went out and popped the "plug" out for the sensor, and it appears to have a sensor installed already. There are two wires going to it, and the unit itself has 2 metal prongs and what appears to be a bulb type sensor inside it.

For the people who have replaced their plug, what did the plug look like? Did it have male pins inside the connector?

 

You are correct,

If your truck already has a chicklet that looks like a light bulb inside and two pins with a wire harmess attached, that is a sensor.

If your truck came from the factory with automatic temperature control (ATC) then that is the sun load sensor for your A/C. AND if your truck did NOT have automatic headlamp switch from the factory, you will need to add the correct sensor along with the new auto headlamp switch. The sensor you need will be "with ATC." it adds a photocell to the sun load sensor.

If your truck came from the factory without ATC and without automatic headlamp switch, it should have a solid black chicklet non transparent plug in the dash with the two wire harness attached at the base with a white keeper to hold the two wire harness in place.

If your NEW auto headlamp switch keeps the lights on during the day when in auto mode, your truck will need to get programmed once the correct sensor has been installed.

Hope this clears up any confusion about the correct parts and how to make it work properly.