Originally Posted by Haas

DogHauler

Can you explain how you finally ended up wiring your RCA Jack in detail?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by DogHauler

Ok, so it's been an adventure since the Kicker vs Memphis thread. However I feel I've got everything where I want it and it's time for a review. Please note that I absolutely suck at anything and everything electric that is more in depth than plugging in speaker wires.

So first, the review.

(Was asked via PM to give it a star rating) Sound is subjective, so it's kinda hard, but I guess I'd give it an 8.5 out of 10 if comparing it to other home and car audio subwoofer systems. It's never going to compete with a large box 10" sub, but the thing is tuned so well to work with what it's got that everyone who has heard it is amazed when I show them the tiny box producing the sound. I've not heard the Hideaway or similar in person so I have nothing to compare it to other than old systems I've had or my home theater setup. I did listen to the factory Sony sub on a Lariat and without being able to tinker with it, I would have given that a 5 out of 10.

The sub seems to be really good quality and at times is similarly priced to the 8" hideaway. I know of 1 person who purchased through Walmart and was quite happy and that's currently the cheapest seller of this unit.

I initially had the sub running via the WPT1212 harness and using the Memphis harness for high level inputs. I had to put everything on max (gain, db boost, and the remote on max) to get what I needed to fill in the lows. It sounded pretty good but I knew it had more to give due to messing around with FORScan and removing the EQ. When I did this the sub would go much louder but it sounded bad. I tried Aux Sub and Aux Speaker with and without other options and just kept feeling like it had more to give.

My current and likely final setup is using the WPT1212 with an RCA, and ONLY the Aux Speaker setting (no other speaker changes). On the head unit Bass is 2 clicks down from center, Midrange is 3 clicks down, and Treble is only 1 click right from the minimum setting. I'm running Polk's in all the doors and they seem to be very bright so my settings will be different from yours. I now have the sub settings at Gain: Roughly 9 o'clock - Bass Boost: Roughly 10 o'clock - Low Pass: Roughly 11 o'clock which I think is 95-105 hz. Once again my settings will be different than yours if you have factory speakers. My speakers have pretty good bass for running off the head unit power so I have less need for the sub except for deep bass in guitar and drums.

With the stereo below 10 you can still hear and feel the bass, anything above 10 and the rearview mirror will shake a bit. Above 25 and the mirror shakes enough that it's kind of annoying to look out it, additionally the gas pedal seems to transmit bass around this level too. The way I tuned my subs and speakers was at max volume. I'm running the remote **** for a few more weeks, but I think I'm really close to having this unit 100% where I want it. This thing is well worth the money IMO if you want great sound without sacrificing back seat space or being able to fold your seats.

2 things to note, this works perfectly fine with the 6v REM line from the WPT1212 to auto power on/off, and Auto Start/Stop doesn't interfere with the unit.

Parts I purchased:
WPT1212 (2015+ & XLT+) If you only buy this you will have to keep the sub close to the drivers side. I bought the below items to get the sub to the center.
Post 87 has the wire explanation, the thread itself has some good info but as with all the FORScan topics the information is scattered all over the thread.https://www.f150forum.com/f118/facto...348088/index3/

Kicker KISL 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter (I bought this in case things didn't work out and I needed to tap the rear speaker wires. I would have had to buy a low level converter as well if I went that route) There are some other similar items on Amazon but they looked of questionable quality. If you have a local audio shop they may have something much better in stock.
10 AWG Red and Black wire for Power and Ground
12 AWG Black wire for the Remote

FORScan code for 2015+ XLT+ models; 727-01-01 xxxC xxxx xxxx
Once again this is the ONLY setting I changed for speakers. I had it at Aux sub on the high/line level inputs but never tried it with the RCA low level.
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/forsc...-truck-348987/

When installed with WPT1212 only you can use a bungee from the 2 seat bolts back up to the seat latch mount. It holds really well.

With my current install it actually fits very snug in the padding and doesn't move. I had planned to build a mount, but it doesn't seem necessary at this time. If I do have to build a mount I'll put a how to here.

I've attached the manual since it couldn't be found anywhere on the net. Additionally a picture of the extended harness and the settings.

If I forgot something or you need different pictures or info, let me know and I'll be happy to try and help. Just remember, I suck with electricity things

Thanks to all those who helped me out with my questions over the past few weeks. I'm finally fully satisfied with my trucks audio.

Originally Posted by alanis928

so this sub/amp package can be hooked up with just the WPT1212 if I keep it in the rear driver side to connect to the factor harness in the pillar correct? And the sub/amp Came with a harness to connect to the WPT1212? I don’t need to run any additional wires? I just want it to hook up to the WPT1212 harness and not have to run wires to the battery, speakers etc. Thank you.

Originally Posted by DogHauler

Correct, wire the wpt to the sub and plug direct to the truck harness. No cutting on the truck needed.