DogHauler

Ok, so it's been an adventure since the Kicker vs Memphis thread. However I feel I've got everything where I want it and it's time for a review. Please note that I absolutely suck at anything and everything electric that is more in depth than plugging in speaker wires.

So first, the review.

(Was asked via PM to give it a star rating) Sound is subjective, so it's kinda hard, but I guess I'd give it an 8.5 out of 10 if comparing it to other home and car audio subwoofer systems. It's never going to compete with a large box 10" sub, but the thing is tuned so well to work with what it's got that everyone who has heard it is amazed when I show them the tiny box producing the sound. I've not heard the Hideaway or similar in person so I have nothing to compare it to other than old systems I've had or my home theater setup. I did listen to the factory Sony sub on a Lariat and without being able to tinker with it, I would have given that a 5 out of 10.

The sub seems to be really good quality and at times is similarly priced to the 8" hideaway. I know of 1 person who purchased through Walmart and was quite happy and that's currently the cheapest seller of this unit.

I initially had the sub running via the WPT1212 harness and using the Memphis harness for high level inputs. I had to put everything on max (gain, db boost, and the remote on max) to get what I needed to fill in the lows. It sounded pretty good but I knew it had more to give due to messing around with FORScan and removing the EQ. When I did this the sub would go much louder but it sounded bad. I tried Aux Sub and Aux Speaker with and without other options and just kept feeling like it had more to give.

My current and likely final setup is using the WPT1212 with an RCA, and ONLY the Aux Speaker setting (no other speaker changes). On the head unit Bass is 2 clicks down from center, Midrange is 3 clicks down, and Treble is only 1 click right from the minimum setting. I'm running Polk's in all the doors and they seem to be very bright so my settings will be different from yours. I now have the sub settings at Gain: Roughly 9 o'clock - Bass Boost: Roughly 10 o'clock - Low Pass: Roughly 11 o'clock which I think is 95-105 hz. Once again my settings will be different than yours if you have factory speakers. My speakers have pretty good bass for running off the head unit power so I have less need for the sub except for deep bass in guitar and drums.

With the stereo below 10 you can still hear and feel the bass, anything above 10 and the rearview mirror will shake a bit. Above 25 and the mirror shakes enough that it's kind of annoying to look out it, additionally the gas pedal seems to transmit bass around this level too. The way I tuned my subs and speakers was at max volume. I'm running the remote **** for a few more weeks, but I think I'm really close to having this unit 100% where I want it. This thing is well worth the money IMO if you want great sound without sacrificing back seat space or being able to fold your seats.

2 things to note, this works perfectly fine with the 6v REM line from the WPT1212 to auto power on/off, and Auto Start/Stop doesn't interfere with the unit.

Parts I purchased:
WPT1212 (2015+ & XLT+) If you only buy this you will have to keep the sub close to the drivers side. I bought the below items to get the sub to the center.
Post 87 has the wire explanation, the thread itself has some good info but as with all the FORScan topics the information is scattered all over the thread.https://www.f150forum.com/f118/facto...348088/index3/

Kicker KISL 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter (I bought this in case things didn't work out and I needed to tap the rear speaker wires. I would have had to buy a low level converter as well if I went that route) There are some other similar items on Amazon but they looked of questionable quality. If you have a local audio shop they may have something much better in stock.
10 AWG Red and Black wire for Power and Ground
12 AWG Black wire for the Remote

FORScan code for 2015+ XLT+ models; 727-01-01 xxxC xxxx xxxx
Once again this is the ONLY setting I changed for speakers. I had it at Aux sub on the high/line level inputs but never tried it with the RCA low level.
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/forsc...-truck-348987/

When installed with WPT1212 only you can use a bungee from the 2 seat bolts back up to the seat latch mount. It holds really well.

With my current install it actually fits very snug in the padding and doesn't move. I had planned to build a mount, but it doesn't seem necessary at this time. If I do have to build a mount I'll put a how to here.

I've attached the manual since it couldn't be found anywhere on the net. Additionally a picture of the extended harness and the settings.

If I forgot something or you need different pictures or info, let me know and I'll be happy to try and help. Just remember, I suck with electricity things

Thanks to all those who helped me out with my questions over the past few weeks. I'm finally fully satisfied with my trucks audio.

dbmachine

Awesome man. Thanks for the write up. This info will be a huge help to the forum members.

lankrom12

DogHauler, I am looking at this option as well. Any chance you could make a video of how it sounds and put it on youtube? I have been unable to find any videos of how this thing sounds. This would be very much appriceatied.

Thanks,

dbmachine

It's not gonna sound good on YouTube. Low frequency being recorded and uploaded sounds like poo. Might just have to take his word for it

2016BoostedGreyGoose

iTrader: (1)

OP, I am not easily impressed as I LOVE wiring and the challenges it brings.....with this said, I am impressed, and tip my hat to you. This is not the system for me (BIG bass head) however you dedication and execution are dead on! Keep on with your progress and tweeking. Love when people go off the broad path to arrive at a higher level!
Impressed.....Lawrence

DogHauler

lankrom, I tried filming before but it just doesn't work. The only thing I could film would be the vibration in the rearview mirror. To top it off, whatever device you listen to it back on would not sound the same as what the unit does even if my mic recorded it properly.

When I had the unit setup on line(high)level inputs I would have placed the bass volume and quality in between my Samsung soundbar w/8" sub and my home theater setup with a Klipsch Sub-12HG 300W unit. With the RCA setup the bass volume is actually really close to the Klipsch as far as being perfect for the space it lives in. Obviously there's some things a 10" sub can't do that a 12" can. I would feel comfortable in putting the Nano up against anything custom anyone has made that fits behind the seat, it might even compete with some under seat setups. It probably would not be better than any of those, but I would bet it's pretty close in quality and all but not as loud.

Overall, it's well tuned good clear bass without distortion presented at a moderate volume level. I don't need anymore than what it provides, and I can get a bit more out of it but then there's distortion on some songs and panels rattling on the truck. I have varied music tastes and the sub has fantastic response with all types of bass guitar, drums, and digital bass. Just remember if bass boost is maxed you're possibly living dangerously close to the threshold that the factory wiring can provide power for.

lankrom12

DogHauler, thanks I think that is what I am looking for. So did you run a power wire from the battery or just use power from the pigtail?

DogHauler

All connections are off the WPT harness using the factory wiring. The factory fuse I believe is 25amp which I think should allow 250 watts, but I don't know much about electricity and math isn't my strong suit. I should probably get an electrician friend to monitor what I'm actually pulling, but I'd guess it's no where near 300 watts which I would assume would blow the factory fuse. Anyone with an XL truck or a model older than a 15 would have to run a dedicated wire and tap the rear speakers.

DogHauler

LOL if you would have seen how much solder I burned through trying to figure out how to solder the wires together you would probably have a good laugh. I definitely should have had the wife hold the wires together for me while I attempted it, I tried to rig something up using heavy kitchen items and something to hold the wire in place, but every once in a while it would slip and I'd have to start back at square one. It is nice being able to say I did it myself, but I also have to admit to the wife that I did it all by myself if something goes wrong :p

This speaker, just like the hideaway will not be for anyone who wants a competition level system for sure. But anyone who is happy with a box set home theater system is probably going to be blown away. Folks like me who want something more, but not have to go the route of a custom box and system should be really happy too. I think even a bass head who has a lease would be mostly content with this unit as something that is easy to return to stock when the lease is up.

DogHauler

So just a minor update, after over a month of having it wedged in the contours behind the seat I believe things are starting to loosen up enough that I'm going to need to fabricate a mounting method. With the bottom of the seat raised it still sits nice and tight, but on hard turns with the seat down (in passenger configuration) it will sometimes move.

I saw another post where someone used the wide oversized zip ties, and I might be down with that. I also like the Velcro straps that the kicker unit comes with and think I can find something online or at a craft store that will work that way. My previous thought of making something out of wood would be overkill for this sub compared to the small slit in the backing material I was initially resistant to performing. Whichever way I go I'll update again.

The sub is running strong, no electrical issues using the factory wiring and we've been having 95-105 temps for the last month.