DaBoot

JBL Concern Series - F-150 Kit | Buy or Not to Buy? – ANSWERED (Audio Quality / Hacks / Corrections / Install / OBD)

For anyone considering the JBL Concert Series turn-key audio setup for their truck, this is a start to finish piece on install, considerations, and outcomes. Sort of an extended how-to. Always welcome feedback or areas were others might be able to add value.

NOTE: This project isn't for everyone as DIY project, I enjoy car audio, competed in the past and have a technical and engineering background so I enjoy it. But it isn't for everyone. That said, I would rate this as a very easy install.

I purchased this from Crutchfield to update the stock audio on my 2016 F-150 Lariat (stock audio, Nav, NO HD Radio) - I read the mixed reviews, but thought, I can always add a secondary amp for the subs etc. I bought an open box version for $314.00.

I read many threads regarding changing out stock speakers and adding a sub and folks being truly happy. To each their own. For me, I don't have a lot of time, the price for this is CHEAP, it kept the stock look and function, and I was just looking for a "decent" improvement. Decent is subjective. The end game for me was; this was a small investment to get some decent gear that was engineered for my vehicle with a DSP. In the grand scheme of things, not bad.

Now, you could blame JBL or Ford for changing how this interoperates with your vehicle because of the EQ setting but, crap, car manufactures change stuff constantly. In all, you can point fingers, but this actually works pretty well when you correct the issue that wasn't there when JBL engineered this solution. More on that soon.

Finally, use at your own risk, every vehicle is different, everyone’s skill set is different. This is fun for me, it may not be for you. You may not want to take this one. If not, go to best buy or your local audiophile shop and pay someone to do it. Don't complain if you use electrical tape for connections or crimp on connections. Learn to solder, use shrink tubing. Cars vibrate, continuity of connections is paramount to power and audio quality. One of the great aspects of this kit, is speakers mount in stock places, wiring harnesses are custom made, and all of the components are secured to the vehicle, don't raddle or move around. If you know anything about car audio or competing, these are all things you are judged on and lead to safety and quality issues.

I also want to acknowledge all the people that shared their findings and research. Without the combined data, I could not have done this. Sharing is caring and I appreciate each and every one of you on the forums.

Off my horse. Here is what I bought:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_990JBL...o-Upgrade.html

The problem found in reviews and before the install:

In researching this, it appears that Ford changed the automatic EQ settings on the stock radio after this JBL unit was released, 2016+. What happens is, as the volume in the truck is increased, clipping occurs to prevent distortion and speaker damage. Since the JBL unit has a built-in DSP (Digital Signal Processing) the two conflict causing abnormal and less than desirable audio output. Most complaints seem to side on poor bass output from the subwoofers.

To combat this, you can turn off the built-in head unit EQ via the OSB.

From what I read, these units were to be solely distributed and installed via CarToys which no longer exists. They could be sold by dealerships but installed at a CarToys. So the install documentation is sparse. I’ve love to have more details on the amp itself, wiring, DSP, etc.

How I learned this:

https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic....ualizer#p26599

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/jbl-co...374651/index2/

(See the post by 2016BoostedGreyGoose on 3-30-2017 @ 3:48pm

How I intend to solve this:

I purchased the following USB to OBD tool to connect with my laptop. I chose the USB version of the tool as I wanted a quality connection, good bandwidth and I didn't care to connect with a mobile (phone) device at this point. I could purchase a cheap Bluetooth or wireless OBD adapter on Amazon if I wanted to run diagnostics in the future. I needed an OBD adapter that supported the MS-CAN/HS-CAN switch that allowed "programming" not just diagnostics.

For help on choosing and OBD device look here:

https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6142

I bought this one for a little under $19.00

[url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]

Amazon

Amazon

This adapter works in conjunction with Forscan (https://forscan.org/home.html) which reads onboard vehicle data and allows changes. Not going into details on that here, tons available for you to research.

I downloaded version 2.3.22beta on my Windows laptop.

ForScan Tutorial: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...gF1wxIqxY/edit

What settings should I change:

Next, I needed to know what needed to change in the programming to defuse the stock EQ issues. I wanted to understand the "As-Built" codes. Lots of work done on this already. I have a 2016 F-150 Lariat Screw with the stock audio setup (no Sony.)

Where to find this: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4393

I was very interested in section 2, this link, "2015+ F-150s created by Livnitup from F-150 forum."

Based on the reading I did on the thread above, mainly the Mustang thread (https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic....ualizer#p26599) I knew I needed to make changes to similar settings (not exactly the same - see my results below.) Turns out the “as-builts” are similar for the Mustang and F-150, so I was looking at these codes in the spreadsheet above to see how they apply to the F-150 and then did some testing. My results are below.

Again, do not copy the Mustang codes verbatim, they don't apply.

--clip from mustang thread--

727-01-02 00xx - Disables Factory EQ Processing

ACM(As Built)

I have heard that this one is a good one too that will flatten the sound and cut the factory amp, but it should only be done if you have an aftermarket amp to drive in place, ready to go.

727-01-01 xx59 F8x8 xxxx - Enables Line Level with Optional Subwoofer (Aux 1) and Front Center (Aux 2) Outputs Enabled*

ACM(As Built)

From <https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic....ualizer#p26599>

--end clip--

Also, good reading:

http://www.billswebspace.com/Variabl...20Upgrades.pdf
https://www.caraudio.com/topic/59795...nk-sub/?page=3

NOTE: Refer to the "As Built" document above to confirm the changes you make to your specific vehicle / setup is correct. You want to look at the ACM section (Audio Control Module.) All of these codes are set via hexadecimal values.

NOTE2: Some of the as-builds in the spreadsheet above, I'm not confident was 100% in line with my truck. Some of the settings just didn't make sense to me, but I need to spend more time researching this to be sure.

My default settings for these two values on my truck:

727-01-01: 1801-1808-0069
727-01-02: 0600-37

What I changed them to:

727-01-01:1808-1808-0069 Checksum auto updated (last octet) to 0070 (Final Output: 1801-1908-0070)
727-01-02:0000-C3 - Checksum auto updated (last octet) to 31 (Final Output: 0000-31)

Post 1 of 2 - Installation & Outcomes in the next post.

DaBoot

Post 2 of 2:

Installation:

As I read the threads, lots of comments about how to install this kit as well. As mentioned, initially this was distributed via cartoys.com and they had instructions, but I can't even get their website to load. Crutchfield did send me a copy of the install instructions; they were very basic and left a lot to be desired.

Videos to reference:

How to remove door panel: Full Install Video:
My Videos:
I didn't capture my entire install, just bits of it. See above.

A few tidbits about my install:

1. You are supposed to run the JBL harness / cables down the passenger side. Routing the cables to that side of the truck was a PITA, so I went down the driver’s side. BUT, be careful to secure your cables, around the accelerator, brake etc. I secured them above all obstructions
2. The front door speaker mounts (JBL) have two hooks and two pins to hold it in the door. I could NOT get the clips to snap in place and get the two posts in all at the same time. I cut off one of the clips (see my install video above.)
3. I did put baffles in my doors, totally optional, but I chose to do it.

Otherwise, this is straightforward.

Outcomes:

It's been about 1 week since I completed the install.

Initial Impressions:

Without changing the "as-built" ACM programming. This upgrade was a downgrade. The conflicting EQ and DSP made this deplorable. As volume increased, the internal HU EQ would just clip the low end (bass) like a motherload.

After ACM Changes:

I'm happy with the outcome, based on the investment. This isn't a raving review, again, I'm happy with the outcome given the $314.00 investment. No doubt this now sounds like an upgrade. The upper range is actually very good and amping the center speakers and “A” post tweets bring them alive. I was hoping for a better midrange, but I'm not getting it without components, but that is just my ear.

The low range leaves me asking for more… BUT.

The built-in (JBL) DSP does a pretty good job (actually.) But it's also dependent on the quality of the input. FM radio doesn't sound that good, if I had HD, maybe it would be ok. I have always hated the muted sound quality of satellite radio. I generally stream or save my audio to my phone via Spotify at the highest quality and leverage Android Auto. There are plenty of debates about lossless audio formats, I'm not going to dive into that now; however, this system certainly play crap, when crap is fed to it. Give it something of more quality, and it will sound pretty good.

Again, related to quality, the low end is all over the place. Some tunes sound great, while others just sound flat. I'm not sure what that sub is doing, and I attribute that to the quality of the subs, amp and amp signal. At a volume above 23, I can't hear a discernable difference in the highs/mids. The sub tries to go louder, but it loses control on "some songs."

In all, some hip/hop sounded great, some not so much. Give it some classic Eagles, and I'm totally lacking a low end. I'd say the cut off on that sub is pretty low, and without components, the door speakers are being asked to cover a wide spectrum and they can't handle on the low to mid end.

I ran a frequency sweep and was surprised that most of the spectrum was "decently" represented, but that lower/mid-section needs some love. I'm quite happy on the high side. You’re not getting the performance of individual components, but its "way" better than stock, non-Sony system. AND, that sub can still thump and offer good sound, again it just depends on the input. My kids were complaining about their butts vibrating on our last outing.

I don't have an RTA or SPL meter any longer, or I could get more technical, but my take on this is, if you can install it correctly, you should experience an "UPGRADE" from a factory setup.

All opinions are objective, this is just mine. My autophile days are somewhat over, replaced by kids and wives (first one - didn't go well.) But for the low cost/risk of $314.00, I'm happy. If I didn't make the ACM as-built changes, I'd be burning this thing in a fire pit. That said, I suspect many of the comments about this being horrible, truly knew they needed to make the ACM setting changes, and I may play around with them more myself, as I’m not 100% sure I got them all correct. We don't have the official CarToys / Ford / JBL internal documentation, so much of this is educated guesswork.

In all, this is a cheap price for decent gear that when installed correctly and fed decent quality audio sounds pretty good. Hope this helps someone.

Cheers!

papermaker

Very well done......and you're not out the original price, thank god

HushCarAudio

Great write up. Looking forward to seeing some photos!!! As for your experience with Crutchfield, I feel your pain. That instruction manual reminds me of assembling items from China with their instructions. If you need help with anything I'm available to lend a hand. Send me a PM and I'll give you my cell.

Jcampion

Great write up and video. How do model years and trim levels differ when it comes to factory eq settings. I’m scheduled to have car toys instal this Thursday but after reading about car audio and being completely overwhelmed (had no idea the cost and complexity of installing audio with factory head unit)

I'm wondering how this will sound in my 2018 stx. The system in this truck is more basic then some other trim levels. ie no nav satellite radio and only 6 speakers. Are the factory preset eq set the same as the op 2016 lariat? How can you find out other then trial and error?

My buddy has this system in his 2016 lariat without and eq adjustments and I thought it sounded way better then my 18 stx and after trying to get something similar around the same price point installed in the Denver metro area I couldn’t come close.

Hush i saw your post on a “budget build” where I believe you installed on an 18 stx maybe you can chime in.

Either way great post thanks for putting it all together greatly appreciated

David Brian Mazakas

I have a 2019 STX supercab (6-speaker) my Ford radio with Sync 3. I just completed my JBL Concert series install yesterday. I purchased open box from Crutchfield for $260.00, which was so cheap I just had to try I can agree with just about every observation you have made of the system's sounds and lack of. I do not have the center speaker but have ordered one used from e-bay. I would also note that I have not installed any of the JBL door speakers included in the kit. Instead I am running elite SKAR 6x9 up front and SKAR 6.5 co-axis in rear. I have tons of front bass and the subs don't seem to be able to outshine my 6x9's in terms of offering any lower frequency. Also seriously lacking is rear speaker volume. I thought this kit might boost the rear speaker power but....NOPE! They are about 20% of the front stage's power which renders them non-existent from the drivers position.

So I am planning to do the EQ fix you have laid out and had a question. Does turning the Factory radio EQ off actually fix the bass issue and increase the output of the subs? I wasn't sure what leaving you wanting more meant, but as you know people who appreciate bass always want more .

Finally, I did lose my back-up warning chimes being played through the speakers (now dash produced) after the install, but my phone tones are still as they were, bein played through the door speakers.

DaBoot

Hey David,

My quick thoughts:

1. I believe once you make the EQ change, you will see a big difference - please report back. Disabling the stock EQ, will allow the JBL Amp and DSP to do what it's supposed to do.
2. The caveat on your install is that you aren't using the JBL door speakers. -- Be careful, that JBL amp can only drive so much.
3. BASS - As I've said numerous times - this system provides a good, balanced audio output. It will NOT knock your socks off with bass. If you play a high-quality piece of audio with a ton of bass it will sound great at 15. At 25 the subs will likely a drunk walking down the street that can barely stand. The amp can't drive the subs.
4. Chimes - I suspect after you add the center channel you will hear your chimes again.
5. Rear speakers.... Yeah...Yep, agree.

The big picture here - for the price you pay for this, you get a pretty decent value.

Thanks for the reply and keep us posted!
D

dhmcfadin

Non amplified trucks have no factory eq period. There is nothing to turn off. You can use forscan to force alerts and chimes to not use the IPC (dash speaker). Only the rear channels have an 80 hz high pass filter applied. The rears are supposed to be quieter than the fronts. Music is record in stereo (left and right) not front and rear. If you used the rear channels for your sub signal then it makes sense that bass would be lacking. But in the case of the jbl, you get what you pay for. I wouldn't set my expectations beyond " a slight improvement over stock". If you want bass, the jbl isn't going to do it for you. You can always add a dedicated sub amp and underseat 10 or 12.

David Brian Mazakas

Sure, I will post back once the center is installed and codes are changed.

David Brian Mazakas

Just posting this picture in case someone wondered how the fitment is in a supercab since the box does protrude slightly beyond the seat. The box does not make contact with your legs while sitting in the rear.

Also noteworthy, at this cost minimally you have rerouted all you factory signals to the rear of the cab clean. This is ideal if later you wanted to use an LC7 or LC2 to amp/convert your signals and increase power while maintaining the JBL cabin DSP. You could also buy better drivers for the sub encloser.....lots of options after a small investment and easy install. Of course you would need to run heavery gauge 12v power line, but still not a bad setup. I ran a 4 gauge cable with the install of this unit just in case I exhausted standard options.