None of those fit behind the seat. That's the reason the thread was started and why OP wanted the factory sub upgrade. It fits behind the seat. All of the options I listed are cheaper, should fit behind the seat with slight modification of the back padding, will sound great, and are an all in one package.

 

Yup, I get that, just giving the OP more options.

Ultimately it comes down to how much he wants to spend and how he wants it to sound.
The SI set up (or similar setups) will not fit behind the rear seat, but it would be similar to my setup with the tw3, I usually just flip it on its side and have it stand up when I need more floor space or just remove it for the few times that I need more space than that. I even made the wires long enough for me to move it to either side of the rear area right next to the doors for ultimate space. I haven't actually needed to remove it in either truck I have had it in. I have also found it is easier to fit my emergency tools behind the rear seat (jumper cables, breaker bar, common sockets and screwdrivers that I could need in an emergency situation) than it is a sub and then I have to compromise less on subs.

 

OP - I have a 2.7 F150 and had an aftermarket system then the Kicker PowerStage system and finally settled on the Kicker OEM subwoofer you posted and it really depends on what you are wanting. You say sub with factory speakers and if you are sticking with factory speakers, then the Kicker OEM sub you posted is the best option because it blends well with the ability of the factory speakers. It brings the truck in the same league with the Sony system and works with Auto Stop/Start which the others will not. The Kicker website referring to not working with Stop/Start is their SubStage which uses a different amplifier not designed for the system. If you want just straight boom and loud a full aftermarket system is your best bet with new speakers, amplifiers and subwoofers. If you search around the Kicker OEM subwoofer can be had for under $600 which in my opinion makes it worth it for the fit, finish, and ease of use.

 

Thank you this is what I was looking for. Looking for more sound but can not justify spending the money on a full system.

Im guessing you installed all these your self? How difficult was it to put in the oem sub. Looks really simple but in all honesty I’m much better at breaking things then putting them together.

 

Ok, kind of a hijack on this thread.

I have the sub in my 2018 XLT and it works great. But, lately i have noticed that after i park the truck there is a popping coming from the sub, does anyone know why this would happen and what to do to fix the issue?

Thank you,

Chris

 

I did install myself and used Forscan to activate. It is pretty straight forward to install and if you look up Kicker Powerstage install instructions and look for the subwoofer section it will bolt down very similar. Then the wiring connects to your gray connector behind the C-Pillar. I popped the C-Pillar off and used a screw driver to line up the connector and push in. A couple changes in Forscan and you are good to go.

Hi Chis, there is an SSM (SSM 46643: Kicker OEM Pop) that is suppose to resolve that issue. I took it to the dealer to fix it and I still struggle with pops. I am trying to get a pass thru device to see if it was actually updated and update it if it was not. It is a problem with the way the radio powers on after you open a door/turn off truck/lock and unlock and the sub shutting down after the radio loses power.

 

[QUOTE=dpuc10;6205995]I did install myself and used Forscan to activate. It is pretty straight forward to install and if you look up Kicker Powerstage install instructions and look for the subwoofer section it will bolt down very similar. Then the wiring connects to your gray connector behind the C-Pillar. I popped the C-Pillar off and used a screw driver to line up the connector and push in. A couple changes in Forscan and you are good to go.

so the “sub” stage oem kicker system and “power” stage oem kicker system are just a harness that connect from the side of the amp to the harness hidden behind the c-pillar of the rear driver side? Just plug one end to the other end and forscan change and good to go? Or is there more complication to do this mod? I saw some people using a ford part pigtail 1212 or something and having to wire that pig tail and solder stuff etc.? Please explain what I would have to do for the power stage and for the sub stage kicker setups for my 2018 Screw XLT so I can narrow down which one to buy and decide if I want to do this mod myself or at all period. Thanks for everyone’s helps in advance!

 

[QUOTE=alanis928;6207940]Kicker actually makes three audio upgrades for Ford:

Ford OEM Subwoofer by Kicker that OP shows that is designed to work with auto stop/start vehicles and uses a silver amplifier. This is the only one that is designed to be plugged behind the C-Pillar and needs activated by Forscan

Kicker Substage - subwoofer that mounts in same location but uses a black amplifier instead of silver which has more power but power has to be wired to the battery and then you can get signal from B-Pillar or through a properly wired WPT1212 harness. You will need to activate through Forscan only if you use the WPT1212. This does not work with auto stop/start

Kicker PowerStage - 4 channel amplifier and subwoofer (same one from substage) that is wired to the battery and gets signal from harness being connected behind the radio. This also does not work with auto stop/start. I referenced it because install instructions can be found online which is not the case for the Ford OEM subwoofer and the subwoofers mount very similar behind the seat.

The WPT1212 harness is usually being used for two purposes:
Wiring in a Kicker Hideaway to sit behind the seat.
Grabbing signal for an aftermarket setup