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I'm a bit interested in this due to the way I've gone about my build. I don't tow much, but I do keep several hundred pounds of storage system and gear in my bed at all times, and mainly I'm just interested in making my vehicle as capable as is reasonable. I have the 9.75 rear with the e-locker, and here's what F150Hub.com has to say about the axle variants for the 13th-gen trucks:
So the HDPP adds a whopping 300 lbs of GAWR to the standard 9.75 rear end.
For my part, I've added HDPP front coils to account for the aftermarket front bumper, and in case I want to add a winch; Autospring AALs (+2k rated capacity), Bilstein 5100s all around, a Hellwig RSB, LT tires, and aftermarket wheels load rated to 2,500 lbs (versus 2,275 for the HDPP 18x7.5 wheels). The only thing remaining that falls below HDPP ratings is the 0.10" frame, and obviously I'm not changing that. My point is, most of what makes a HDPP truck can be bolted on.
Spoiler
Queue the outcries from HDPP owners!
Everything but the sticker showing you're almost legal. Why not just order the HDPP?
Everything but the sticker showing you're almost legal. Why not just order the HDPP?
A few reasons:
I didn’t know about it
I don’t need it
Apparently you can’t get a Platinum with it anyway
I’d rather build the truck to my specs, rather than Ford's, for less money
I’m nowhere near pushing GVWR. I really couldn’t care less what the sticker says, because I’m going to load my truck according to good sense. My vehicle capacity exceeds anything I forsee using it for, which is how I like it. How many people bring their trucks to a scale, and weigh everything that goes into it? And how many times have you seen a passenger vehicle cited for exceeding its stickered GWVR?
Originally Posted by Sweetlou
The HDPP rear axle bumps rear GAWR from 4500 to 4800.
Fixed that for you. I haven’t verified the frame rating.
Last edited by DeltaNu1142; Oct 23, 2018 at 09:03 AM.
So if I check a max tow 157” frame today and it has “hpp” stamped on it, is that the .1 or .11? Bit confused on this, I get the HDPP is .11 and there’s a .1 and the a light duty .087 or something like that
The deals sitting on the lot interest me to swapping parts to get close to HDPP as possible sounds like you can get there (with aftermarket suspension) beside the rear axle (Maybe frame?)
Basically I'm looking at a $14,000 difference between similar equipped HDPP vs just max tow (new truck) i was already going to level with coil overs and do rims/tires but id like to land around 2200+lbs payload ( I really don't care what the sticker says if truck is modified correctly) this trucks payload for me is for a sled deck, two sleds, two guys and gear.
Last edited by rick5150; Oct 23, 2018 at 09:44 AM.
Here’s a quick run-down of the payload-related mods I made.
Autospring AALs: (+2k payload... not really, but the leaf pack capacity is improved by that much): $120
HDPP front coils (+80 lb-in spring rate): $100
Bilstein 5100s (improved manners and damping): $260
18x9 wheels and 305/65/18 tires (increased load rating and capabilities over stock): $1900
Hellwig rear sway bar (improved handling): $130
I'd save the $14,000 and configure your truck how you like with aftermarket stuff. If you can confirm that you'll have the 0.11”-thick frame and the 9.75 rear, you'll be just 300 lbs short of the HDPP payload rating, only due to the GAWR... that is, if the axle is the lowest-rated component, and not something else.
It should be noted that you can't really increase your rated payload, as anyone who shelled out for a HDPP-equipped truck will tell you. What you can do, however, is step up your effective capacity by replacing components that would otherwise be your truck's weakest link. Your payload is dependent on your truck’s entire load-bearing system including axles, suspension, frame, and so on. Your weakest component is the limit to your effective payload.
For example, if you have an HDPP-equipped truck on wheels rated for 1,000 lbs, your wheels are the weakest link. Replace your wheels with 2,500 lb load-rated wheels, something else becomes your weakest link. My truck’s weakest link is either the frame or the axles, but since I don’t plan to ever approach those ratings, it doesn’t much matter to me.
Just a thought... The XLT Scab I had first ordered had a payload of 1751#. Since Ford screwed up and I refused the truck I got a do-over with a Screw HDPP. It was about a $1000 difference in MSRP. I gave up a few things to get the HDPP but I'm in a better place towing with 2461# payload. I made out better total cost with the rebates and incentives I got the second time. I did lean on Ford because of their screw up and got two PCOs. A Limited or Platinum do not interest me.
Last edited by Wicked ace; Oct 23, 2018 at 10:46 AM.
Here’s a quick run-down of the payload-related mods I made.
Autospring AALs: (+2k payload... not really, but the leaf pack capacity is improved by that much): $120
HDPP front coils (+80 lb-in spring rate): $100
Bilstein 5100s (improved manners and damping): $260
18x9 wheels and 305/65/18 tires (increased load rating and capabilities over stock): $1900
Hellwig rear sway bar (improved handling): $130
I'd save the $14,000 and configure your truck how you like with aftermarket stuff. If you can confirm that you'll have the 0.11”-thick frame and the 9.75 rear, you'll be just 300 lbs short of the HDPP payload rating, only due to the GAWR... that is, if the axle is the lowest-rated component, and not something else.
It should be noted that you can't really increase your rated payload, as anyone who shelled out for a HDPP-equipped truck will tell you. What you can do, however, is step up your effective capacity by replacing components that would otherwise be your truck's weakest link. Your payload is dependent on your truck’s entire load-bearing system including axles, suspension, frame, and so on. Your weakest component is the limit to your effective payload.
For example, if you have an HDPP-equipped truck on wheels rated for 1,000 lbs, your wheels are the weakest link. Replace your wheels with 2,500 lb load-rated wheels, something else becomes your weakest link. My truck’s weakest link is either the frame or the axles, but since I don’t plan to ever approach those ratings, it doesn’t much matter to me.
I want to know where you are shopping to get Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts for $260 and Hellwig sway bar for $130!
I want to know where you are shopping to get Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts for $260 and Hellwig sway bar for $130!
I wait for deals. I got the front 5100s from another member here that decided not to install them. The Hellwig I got from an Amazon warehouse deal as “used,” but it had clearly never been removed from the box. I actually got the rear 5100s from a site sponsor, but they gave me a killer deal. Nothing beats the eBay “new old stock” front and rear bumpers I got, though. I’m almost ashamed to tell you what I paid for those.
The point is, though, unless you’re really pushing your payload, the money you throw at a HDPP can be better used elsewhere without sacrificing capability.
Last edited by DeltaNu1142; Oct 23, 2018 at 11:11 AM.
they have a max sidewall pressure of 51 (2756 lb capacity) but are not LT tires. The recommended inflation is 35psi as per the door sticker on my truck. Even de-rated ( x.909) as a P-Tire, their capacity is still 2505lbs, which is much higher than my axle capacity of 3800lbs and even high enough to work for a HDPP truck's 4800lb axle with 210lbs to spare. Looking at the door sticker of a HDPP truck you can see the LT tire designation, vs no designation for the non-HDPP truck. The HDPP wranglers look like a much better tire.
