Sync 3 Memory Issue
2019 F150
SYNC 3.4 Build 22251 ( what ever the newest one is )
System would always ask for confirmation about updates and wifi activation.
System would always change back to AUTO mode after I switched switch to Night Mode.
System would never remember the WIFI Password
Push to Talk ( on steering wheel ) would always tell me there is no Phone Book.
Just got the confirmation from the dealer that the APIM / APMI is going bad.
They are going to replace it but it is back ordered and they do not have an ETA.
SYNC 3.4 Build 22251 ( what ever the newest one is )
System would always ask for confirmation about updates and wifi activation.
System would always change back to AUTO mode after I switched switch to Night Mode.
System would never remember the WIFI Password
Push to Talk ( on steering wheel ) would always tell me there is no Phone Book.
Just got the confirmation from the dealer that the APIM / APMI is going bad.
They are going to replace it but it is back ordered and they do not have an ETA.
2019 F150
SYNC 3.4 Build 22251 ( what ever the newest one is )
System would always ask for confirmation about updates and wifi activation.
System would always change back to AUTO mode after I switched switch to Night Mode.
System would never remember the WIFI Password
Push to Talk ( on steering wheel ) would always tell me there is no Phone Book.
Just got the confirmation from the dealer that the APIM / APMI is going bad.
They are going to replace it but it is back ordered and they do not have an ETA.
SYNC 3.4 Build 22251 ( what ever the newest one is )
System would always ask for confirmation about updates and wifi activation.
System would always change back to AUTO mode after I switched switch to Night Mode.
System would never remember the WIFI Password
Push to Talk ( on steering wheel ) would always tell me there is no Phone Book.
Just got the confirmation from the dealer that the APIM / APMI is going bad.
They are going to replace it but it is back ordered and they do not have an ETA.
so, create the drive as described in your post on page 27, follow the instructions above, and let it do it’s thing?
then insert separate usb containing 23188 for final upgrade?
thank you - sincerely appreciate you finding and posting a solution!
Late edit! Not used to working off my phone.
steve
then insert separate usb containing 23188 for final upgrade?
thank you - sincerely appreciate you finding and posting a solution!
Late edit! Not used to working off my phone.
steve
You will need maximum (4) USBs or minimum (2). If you use (2), have to have a laptop handy to move files back and forth between the readily available (1). The main (1) will be the 23188 build and need at least 16GB. The 4 USBs will be:
1- Jailbreak (did this with a 4GB)
2- Daemon (did this with a 4GB)
3- Memory cleaner (did this with a 4GB)
4- Newest build (did this with 16GB)
As stated, to jailbreak you will need to time it precisely. I did it in my 3rd try. You insert jailbreak- get the error message- soft reset- put jailbreak in- soft reset before getting that error message again.
If completed properly- you will see A MOD message pop up.
Then you can do daemon- takes about 5 mins- will get a message stating installed successfully.
Then you do memory cleaner- takes only a few mins- will get a message stating installed successfully
Then you'll have a clean 22251 build
Then you can either keep that which I don't suggest, or upgrade to 23188
At first I was intimidated by reading all the things you had to do- but Cyanlabs site, and SyncUpdater3 made it easy to do/ broke down directions easily.
FMods was the same.
Now I have the newest build with the newest maps......for free
Some people who don't understand things graciously ask for help, others pretend to know it all and go on the defensive, when in all actuality they don't fully understand what people are saying. I think we know which type of person you are...
Referring to CMOS batteries in 2023 is a clear indication to me that you know/knew just enough about tech to be dangerous, but this is a little bit outside of your realm, so you're upset that you don't fully grasp it. How'd I do?
Yeah, the information is all over the place, because none of us are Ford employees on an engineering team that can develop a 100% repeatable fix. You get what you pay for (in the case of this forum, free). If you don't like that, you can pay your local dealer to replace your APIM and the issue will go away, until it either creeps up again due to the bug, or Ford releases the fixed build publicly. Nobody is forcing you to to try and piece together posts in this thread, although by my counts several people have been able to. The goal of my input of this thread is to help people who are out of warranty avoid paying Ford $1,000+ for a new APIM when this isn't a hardware issue. Honestly, people like you are the reason I hesitate to even post help on this forum when I'm knowledgeable in a topic, because for some reason I just cannot fathom, people like you find issues with free advice.
Referring to CMOS batteries in 2023 is a clear indication to me that you know/knew just enough about tech to be dangerous, but this is a little bit outside of your realm, so you're upset that you don't fully grasp it. How'd I do?
Yeah, the information is all over the place, because none of us are Ford employees on an engineering team that can develop a 100% repeatable fix. You get what you pay for (in the case of this forum, free). If you don't like that, you can pay your local dealer to replace your APIM and the issue will go away, until it either creeps up again due to the bug, or Ford releases the fixed build publicly. Nobody is forcing you to to try and piece together posts in this thread, although by my counts several people have been able to. The goal of my input of this thread is to help people who are out of warranty avoid paying Ford $1,000+ for a new APIM when this isn't a hardware issue. Honestly, people like you are the reason I hesitate to even post help on this forum when I'm knowledgeable in a topic, because for some reason I just cannot fathom, people like you find issues with free advice.
Some people who don't understand things graciously ask for help, others pretend to know it all and go on the defensive, when in all actuality they don't fully understand what people are saying. I think we know which type of person you are...
Referring to CMOS batteries in 2023 is a clear indication to me that you know/knew just enough about tech to be dangerous, but this is a little bit outside of your realm, so you're upset that you don't fully grasp it. How'd I do?
Yeah, the information is all over the place, because none of us are Ford employees on an engineering team that can develop a 100% repeatable fix. You get what you pay for (in the case of this forum, free). If you don't like that, you can pay your local dealer to replace your APIM and the issue will go away, until it either creeps up again due to the bug, or Ford releases the fixed build publicly. Nobody is forcing you to to try and piece together posts in this thread, although by my counts several people have been able to. The goal of my input of this thread is to help people who are out of warranty avoid paying Ford $1,000+ for a new APIM when this isn't a hardware issue. Honestly, people like you are the reason I hesitate to even post help on this forum when I'm knowledgeable in a topic, because for some reason I just cannot fathom, people like you find issues with free advice.
Referring to CMOS batteries in 2023 is a clear indication to me that you know/knew just enough about tech to be dangerous, but this is a little bit outside of your realm, so you're upset that you don't fully grasp it. How'd I do?
Yeah, the information is all over the place, because none of us are Ford employees on an engineering team that can develop a 100% repeatable fix. You get what you pay for (in the case of this forum, free). If you don't like that, you can pay your local dealer to replace your APIM and the issue will go away, until it either creeps up again due to the bug, or Ford releases the fixed build publicly. Nobody is forcing you to to try and piece together posts in this thread, although by my counts several people have been able to. The goal of my input of this thread is to help people who are out of warranty avoid paying Ford $1,000+ for a new APIM when this isn't a hardware issue. Honestly, people like you are the reason I hesitate to even post help on this forum when I'm knowledgeable in a topic, because for some reason I just cannot fathom, people like you find issues with free advice.
You will need maximum (4) USBs or minimum (2). If you use (2), have to have a laptop handy to move files back and forth between the readily available (1). The main (1) will be the 23188 build and need at least 16GB. The 4 USBs will be:
1- Jailbreak (did this with a 4GB)
2- Daemon (did this with a 4GB)
3- Memory cleaner (did this with a 4GB)
4- Newest build (did this with 16GB)
As stated, to jailbreak you will need to time it precisely. I did it in my 3rd try. You insert jailbreak- get the error message- soft reset- put jailbreak in- soft reset before getting that error message again.
If completed properly- you will see A MOD message pop up.
Then you can do daemon- takes about 5 mins- will get a message stating installed successfully.
Then you do memory cleaner- takes only a few mins- will get a message stating installed successfully
Then you'll have a clean 22251 build
Then you can either keep that which I don't suggest, or upgrade to 23188
At first I was intimidated by reading all the things you had to do- but Cyanlabs site, and SyncUpdater3 made it easy to do/ broke down directions easily.
FMods was the same.
Now I have the newest build with the newest maps......for free
1- Jailbreak (did this with a 4GB)
2- Daemon (did this with a 4GB)
3- Memory cleaner (did this with a 4GB)
4- Newest build (did this with 16GB)
As stated, to jailbreak you will need to time it precisely. I did it in my 3rd try. You insert jailbreak- get the error message- soft reset- put jailbreak in- soft reset before getting that error message again.
If completed properly- you will see A MOD message pop up.
Then you can do daemon- takes about 5 mins- will get a message stating installed successfully.
Then you do memory cleaner- takes only a few mins- will get a message stating installed successfully
Then you'll have a clean 22251 build
Then you can either keep that which I don't suggest, or upgrade to 23188
At first I was intimidated by reading all the things you had to do- but Cyanlabs site, and SyncUpdater3 made it easy to do/ broke down directions easily.
FMods was the same.
Now I have the newest build with the newest maps......for free
No problem. Others helped me here.
SyncUpdater3 really does all the work for the 23188 build, as well as maps. Just download that software, and configure how you want. For my 2019- I just chose 23188 build, newest maps, and auto-install/downgrade and made sure MY20 was turned off. (Verify this for you)
If you read their directions- downgrade is a combination of reformat/ auto-install.
For FMods- you just download their zip files, and un-zip onto the other USB(s).
Then it's just actually installing all USBs
SyncUpdater3 really does all the work for the 23188 build, as well as maps. Just download that software, and configure how you want. For my 2019- I just chose 23188 build, newest maps, and auto-install/downgrade and made sure MY20 was turned off. (Verify this for you)
If you read their directions- downgrade is a combination of reformat/ auto-install.
For FMods- you just download their zip files, and un-zip onto the other USB(s).
Then it's just actually installing all USBs
Okay guys, if you don't like what someone posts or agree with them. Put them on your ignore list and leave them alone. If myself or any other staff member has to clean up again, further action will be taken up to a vacation from this forum











