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Still need a subwoofer? Read this...

Old 05-11-2017, 12:37 PM
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Default Still need a subwoofer? Read this...

I think I've found the best bang for the buck and simplest way to add the much needed sound to my truck. I found the Kicker Hideaway to sound good, certainly better than no sub at all, but not great. While shopping I stumbled upon a 10" subwoofer-sealed box-amp combo that utilized a much smaller enclosure than most 10" woofers suggest.

TBX10A is the part number. It's budget friendly at only $80 or so! This speaker sounds so much better than I ever would have imagined. Compared to the Hideaway I would describe it as less "boom" sound and more "bump" sound, much less distortion as well.

Here is how I installed it in my 2017 XL STX SCAB w8" touch screen....

1) This unit fits perfectly behind the seat of my SCAB.

2) I used the WPT1212 connector. With the wires facing you and the clip on top. Top Left - Battery Positive, Top Right - Ground(negative), Bottom Left - 6v Remote Turn On (*Yes the TBX10A works perfectly with only 6v remote)

3) My truck DID NOT work with the WPT1212 speaker wires at the factory plug. Just above the factory plug where the WPT1212 is, there is a harness that goes into the LR door. The White/Green Stripe is LR +, The Brown/Yellow Stripe is LR -.

With the above connections made I had a GREAT sounding fully adjustable subwoofer that was very easy to tailor to my desired output. BUT I HAD THAT "POP" NOISE!!! So........

4) I installed a line output converter. Part number SNI-35 made by PAC which costs less than $10.

5) Using ONLY those same LR speaker connections from step 3, I wired them to BOTH the Left and Right line inputs of the SNI-35.

6) Ran an audio RC cable from the SNI-35 to the speaker input of the all-in-one TBX10A.

I no longer have ANY "POP" and the sound is simply outstanding!!! I never thought I would end up with a 10" sub without making a custom box ~and~ having it fit nicely behind the seat!!!

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WPT1212-Multi-Function-Connector-Assembly/dp/B009B5SPHU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494520312&sr=1-1&keywords=wpt1212 https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WPT1212-Multi-Function-Connector-Assembly/dp/B009B5SPHU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494520312&sr=1-1&keywords=wpt1212


http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/tbx10a.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W
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Old 05-11-2017, 12:47 PM
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I have the kicker hideaway and concur it sounds much better than no sub at all, and certainly adds a lot of bass to the truck, but doesn't "hit" super hard.

However, if I was going to upgrade I would not go this route. The sub you used is only 100 watts RMS, 50 less than the kicker. I can't imagine it would sound all that better than the kicker. Memphis makes a 200 watt, 10" powered sub that I would probably consider before this.
Old 05-11-2017, 01:06 PM
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I had the
Kicker 11PT10CA Kicker 11PT10CA
which has a built in 90 watt amp. It had good volume at above 70 Hz but really faded below that.

Then I upgraded to the
Kicker 43TCWRT102 Kicker 43TCWRT102
which also fits really well and delivers a ton more bass.
Old 05-11-2017, 01:11 PM
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its possible the truck didnt work with WPT because you didnt use forscan to turn it on?

the kicker looks nice, but the price point makes me sway to JL to match my front and rears
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-CP106LG-W3v3-Slot-Ported-Truck-Enclosure/dp/B0082DJ54E/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494522610&sr=1-2&keywords=jl+audio+micro+sub https://www.amazon.com/Audio-CP106LG-W3v3-Slot-Ported-Truck-Enclosure/dp/B0082DJ54E/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494522610&sr=1-2&keywords=jl+audio+micro+sub

Last edited by swimmarz; 05-11-2017 at 01:14 PM.
Old 05-11-2017, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by swimmarz
its possible the truck didnt work with WPT because you didnt use forscan to turn it on?

the kicker looks nice, but the price point makes me sway to JL to match my front and rears
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-CP106LG...udio+micro+sub
It's been confirmed the JL does not fit behind the rear seats.
Old 05-11-2017, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by redranger04g
However, if I was going to upgrade I would not go this route. The sub you used is only 100 watts RMS, 50 less than the kicker. I can't imagine it would sound all that better than the kicker. Memphis makes a 200 watt, 10" powered sub that I would probably consider before this.
Any experience with the Memphis? This model seems intriguing.. http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/produ...ges/15sa110sp/

The attraction to that model is that it should fit behind the rear seat and still allow underseat storage, just like the Kicker OEM subwoofer but a couple hundred cheaper.
Old 05-11-2017, 02:02 PM
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The pioneer 10" with the pioneer enclosure fits perfectly if you cut out a section of the padding
on the back.
Old 05-11-2017, 02:11 PM
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Yeah, I've read that helps... I'm looking to avoid having to cut out the carpeting/padding.
Old 05-11-2017, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by redranger04g
I have the kicker hideaway and concur it sounds much better than no sub at all, and certainly adds a lot of bass to the truck, but doesn't "hit" super hard.

However, if I was going to upgrade I would not go this route. The sub you used is only 100 watts RMS, 50 less than the kicker. I can't imagine it would sound all that better than the kicker. Memphis makes a 200 watt, 10" powered sub that I would probably consider before this.
Although I certainly agree with you that there are much stronger alternatives, I doubt that there are any at less than $100.
The box claimed that this 10" was 300w but of course that would be a peak rating. There's no way it's 300w, especially with only a 15a fuse. That being said, I can assure you that it sounds at least 5x better than the Hideaway did. It's louder without distorting but more importantly less "boomy" sounding. Very "crisp" and "punchy" instead. I'm sure this is 10" vs 8" thing, or possibly the larger box helping as well.

Im not a salesman. Lol. The Hideaway sounds great for what it is. My only intention is to point out a budget friendly alternative that sounds as good or better in my opinion.

Ive had so much great advice here that I want to pass on anything that I can to return the favor whenever I can.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by redranger04g
It's been confirmed the JL does not fit behind the rear seats.
Didn't that guy/gal use the 8", and it fit just can put the seats up all they way
I got 2 car seats installed not lifting my seats anytime soon

I remember seeing the pic of it there, the grill was dented but it fit, I cant find the thread to confirm as i suck as using search on this site...

and this is the 6" version
External Width (W) 14.125 in / 359 mm
External Height (H) 9.625 in / 245 mm
External Depth (D1) 5.125 in / 130 mm
Net Weight 12 lb / 5.44 kg

the 8 in version is CP108LG-W3v3
External Width (W) 18.625 in / 473 mm
External Height (H) 11.0 in / 279 mm
External Depth (D1) 5.125 in / 130 mm
Net Weight 17.40 lb / 7.89 kg

besides it can always go under the seat

edit I found it and it was the 8 inch version, it does fit just dont put the seat bottom up
the 6 inch version is slightly shorter, and that would put the driver lower on the box.
another thing i plan on doing differntly is cutting the carpet behind the box to get it back another .5 inch or so
https://www.f150forum.com/f30/wiring...-guide-307111/

Last edited by swimmarz; 05-11-2017 at 02:33 PM.

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