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Old 05-11-2017, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by swimmarz
I remember seeing the pic of it there, the grill was dented but it fit, I cant find the thread to confirm as i suck as using search on this site...
This one?

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/wiring...1/#post4240020

It fit but he couldn't lock the seat up for underseat storage... could only lift it part way, which resulted in the dent when doing so.
Old 05-11-2017, 02:32 PM
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Or someone can buy mine at huge discount at 25 I thought I could be mature enough to live with an 8" but no can do so I'm selling my Rockford Fosgate PS-8. Was in truck for like a month, sounded great just wasn't loud enough for me. I just finished installing a 12" downfiring in a box I built myself so I'm ready to make someone a deal on the 8"! Let me know!

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Old 05-11-2017, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by sbohl15a
Or someone can buy mine at huge discount at 25 I thought I could be mature enough to live with an 8" but no can do so I'm selling my Rockford Fosgate PS-8. Was in truck for like a month, sounded great just wasn't loud enough for me. I just finished installing a 12" downfiring in a box I built myself so I'm ready to make someone a deal on the 8"! Let me know!
You're just a couple days too late for me. Did you have to upgrade the rest of your system to keep up with a 12"? I'm a huge fan of great sound pushing great music but an overhaul of my trucks sound system wasn't on my list. (At least not yet.)
Old 05-11-2017, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by D2Abbott
You're just a couple days too late for me. Did you have to upgrade the rest of your system to keep up with a 12"? I'm a huge fan of great sound pushing great music but an overhaul of my trucks sound system wasn't on my list. (At least not yet.)
Dang lol, but no I just went with the sub under the back seat for now. I've always upgraded door speakers on older trucks but this was my first new truck and the stock speakers don't sound too bad to my ear for now. I just wanted to add some bass and have learned from this experience I prefer to have the 12" there for weekends with the crew
Old 05-11-2017, 02:51 PM
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For those wondering I went with an 1100w Boss Amp
Amazon Amazon

and a 1500w Pioneer sub
Amazon Amazon

If you throw in the wiring kit and box I built (0.8 cubic feet, uses up about half the room under the seat and sits flush) I was sitting with under 200$ out of pocket. I had the exact setup in my old junk Silverado and it sounds amazing. Just throwing out an alternative for those interested

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Old 05-11-2017, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by D2Abbott
2) I used the WPT1212 connector. With the wires facing you and the clip on top. Top Left - Battery Positive, Top Right - Ground(negative), Bottom Left - 6v Remote Turn On (*Yes the TBX10A works perfectly with only 6v remote)

3) My truck DID NOT work with the WPT1212 speaker wires at the factory plug. Just above the factory plug where the WPT1212 is, there is a harness that goes into the LR door. The White/Green Stripe is LR +, The Brown/Yellow Stripe is LR -.
I re-read your post a little closer since I wasn't aware of the WPT1212 harness prior to this... so if I understand you correctly, you were able to get power using the harness, just the speaker wires didn't work through the WPT1212. Am I reading this correctly?

If this is correct, I'm kinda surprised that the WPT1212 harness can carry enough power to the amp. I've always had to run an appropriate gauge wire from the battery to the amp depending on the amp size and the WPT1212 just seems too small a gauge... but if it works, sure is a hell of a lot easier than having to go to the battery!
Old 05-11-2017, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by leonoe
I re-read your post a little closer since I wasn't aware of the WPT1212 harness prior to this... so if I understand you correctly, you were able to get power using the harness, just the speaker wires didn't work through the WPT1212. Am I reading this correctly?

If this is correct, I'm kinda surprised that the WPT1212 harness can carry enough power to the amp. I've always had to run an appropriate gauge wire from the battery to the amp depending on the amp size and the WPT1212 just seems too small a gauge... but if it works, sure is a hell of a lot easier than having to go to the battery!
Yep. That factory harness is there to power the factory 150w subwoofer for those with the option. It's not a very large power wire and is fused with only a 20a. So when using this plug you wouldn't want to power too large of an amp with it. This is the reason many folks are using it to power the Hideaway or another smallish setup. For big power amps you would still need to run a big dedicated power line straight from the battery. My purchased system is only fused at 15a and only 18 gauge power wire. No problem for the factory harness.

My install is as close to plug and play as there is. Takes about 15-20 minutes of your time, that's it.
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by D2Abbott
I think I've found the best bang for the buck and simplest way to add the much needed sound to my truck. I found the Kicker Hideaway to sound good, certainly better than no sub at all, but not great. While shopping I stumbled upon a 10" subwoofer-sealed box-amp combo that utilized a much smaller enclosure than most 10" woofers suggest.

TBX10A is the part number. It's budget friendly at only $80 or so! This speaker sounds so much better than I ever would have imagined. Compared to the Hideaway I would describe it as less "boom" sound and more "bump" sound, much less distortion as well.

Here is how I installed it in my 2017 XL STX SCAB w8" touch screen....

1) This unit fits perfectly behind the seat of my SCAB.

2) I used the WPT1212 connector. With the wires facing you and the clip on top. Top Left - Battery Positive, Top Right - Ground(negative), Bottom Left - 6v Remote Turn On (*Yes the TBX10A works perfectly with only 6v remote)

3) My truck DID NOT work with the WPT1212 speaker wires at the factory plug. Just above the factory plug where the WPT1212 is, there is a harness that goes into the LR door. The White/Green Stripe is LR +, The Brown/Yellow Stripe is LR -.

With the above connections made I had a GREAT sounding fully adjustable subwoofer that was very easy to tailor to my desired output. BUT I HAD THAT "POP" NOISE!!! So........

4) I installed a line output converter. Part number SNI-35 made by PAC which costs less than $10.

5) Using ONLY those same LR speaker connections from step 3, I wired them to BOTH the Left and Right line inputs of the SNI-35.

6) Ran an audio RC cable from the SNI-35 to the speaker input of the all-in-one TBX10A.

I no longer have ANY "POP" and the sound is simply outstanding!!! I never thought I would end up with a 10" sub without making a custom box ~and~ having it fit nicely behind the seat!!!

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WP...ywords=wpt1212


http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/tbx10a.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Va.../dp/B001EAWS3W
Did the WPT1212 connector plug directly into the factory subwoofer connection in the LR door panel?

Did you need to run power from battery, or is it all run through the connector?

Ahhhh never mind, I see the post right above mine answers that!!
Old 05-12-2017, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by doctorschlachter
Did the WPT1212 connector plug directly into the factory subwoofer connection in the LR door panel?

Did you need to run power from battery, or is it all run through the connector?

Ahhhh never mind, I see the post right above mine answers that!!
The WPT1212 connector will plug directly into the subwoofer connection in the LR door panel. You don't need to run power from the battery, everything is through the connector. You just have to make sure you enable in forscan.

For whatever reason, the power from the plug does not work with XLs, but XLTs and above it works on. This is the problem the OP ran into.
Old 05-12-2017, 11:49 AM
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Just to clarify, the power, ground, and remote on power all work through the plug. It's just the speaker +/- that doesn't.
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