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I'm like 95% sure I will be getting these in about a month or so. For an 18 with Halogens, are the instructions updated to be clear how to run the fuse tap wire? I will be taking it somewhere else to get installed (All Out Offroad) and don't want them doing it wrong, and having to re-do it. I read the 15-17 PDF is updated on line, how about the 18 version? Is the capacitor also included, in case there are EMI issues seen? I do listen to a Sports Talk Radio show, and it is not the most powerful signal in Dallas/Fort Worth (96.7). These may have been answered, but reading thru all this a few times, I'm confusing myself! O_o
I'm like 95% sure I will be getting these in about a month or so. For an 18 with Halogens, are the instructions updated to be clear how to run the fuse tap wire? I will be taking it somewhere else to get installed (All Out Offroad) and don't want them doing it wrong, and having to re-do it. I read the 15-17 PDF is updated on line, how about the 18 version? Is the capacitor also included, in case there are EMI issues seen? I do listen to a Sports Talk Radio show, and it is not the most powerful signal in Dallas/Fort Worth (96.7). These may have been answered, but reading thru all this a few times, I'm confusing myself! O_o
TIA
Hey there, the online PDF http://www.morimotohid.com/media/cus...1545057409.pdf has been updated to include the emi harness install etc. I used this when installing my lights and it was spot on.. The fuse is clearly called out.. Now I ran mine to a feed on my switch-pros switcher as when I ran directly to the fuse box, the halos were always on. IE no way to turn them off as they got feed from fuse pannel and when lights are turned off in the cab, The DRL kicks in.. So with it hooked up to my switch-pros, i can actually kill that power and the DRL cuts off. This way if i want all lights off on the truck i can do so.. I didnt need any capacitor or experience any blinking issues etc. I will tell you though, I have EMI issues. The harness helped remove most of it but if the signal is weak at all, i can hear the buzz and the weaker it gets, the louder the EMI is... YMMV depending on the strength of the radio station.. Some people didnt have issues but unfortunately i did.. It appears that its really radiating from the passenger side light as with some feraday fabric i was able to get it to almost 100% go away.. So this spring when it warms up and I have a chance to remove the headlight again, I will prolly retrofit some sheilding behind the light, install some more ferite coils and hopefully at that point, it will be gone.. The radio is usable to a certain point when needed so I am ok dealing with it for now. Pandora and audible are my primary apps atm and I dont have to worry with EMI with them..
Overall I love the headlights and will do what i need to in order to get them to all work out as they are so much better than then halogens that came on my truck... If i only didnt have that dark spot on the halo for the passenger side I would be 100% pleased.. Since I know its there, i cant look at my truck without seeing it.. lol Just for 1500 i wish they didnt have that gap..
Thanks, kilthro! Downloaded the PDF and will print it to take along for the install. If the FM gets too bad on "The Ticket" I can switch to AM to listen also, the other 2 stations (ESPN and The Fan) seem to be a stronger signal. If it is too bad, I'll just stream it, or stick to my USB stick.
Thanks, kilthro! Downloaded the PDF and will print it to take along for the install. If the FM gets too bad on "The Ticket" I can switch to AM to listen also, the other 2 stations (ESPN and The Fan) seem to be a stronger signal. If it is too bad, I'll just stream it, or stick to my USB stick.
I have also used Iheart radio so not sure if they have an app that you can use.. if so.. you will be set.. I am also thinking about relocatinig the antenna too... I am thinking of concealing it more since in these aluminum trucks, haviing it exposed like that just isnt a good idea.. Just another summer time project. :-)
Also, I did comment this on another thread but will call it out here. The circuit for fuse 36 that we use will at times remains with power after shutting the truck off.. IE ignition off, keys out and doors locked.. The DRLs will be powered on.. First time i had this happen i was like WTH... So i decided to wait a bit.. After 60-90 seconds that circuit will then power off after it times out.. I noticed that when this happens, the back light on the radio is on .. no image just back light.. It doesnt happen often but really no need to panic.. It will happen sometimes. I have never had them just reamain on though long term.. they always time out.. If you are standing outside the truck, you can hear something click under the hood.. maybe a relay or something and poof.. they are off and circuit has no power.. I looked up the fuse and its just labled as 10 amp vehicle power 3
It is also interesting that when I use the Ford Pass app to lock the doors, it will momentarily power that circuit up as well and will time out after 2-3 seeconds.. Would see the Halos come on... then go off after a few seconds..
Again, no issues.. just mentioning it so you are aware..
At night when this has happened, the DRL halos are as bright as some peoples headlights.. so intense.
Has anyone found a better fuse for the DRLs on the 15-17 trucks? On my 2017 they intermittently run for over 5 minutes after parking the truck. Auto start-stop also does not function anymore. It would be nice to tap a circuit that's only hot when the ignition is on.
Nevermind. I found a better fuse. The DRLs should now shut on/off with the key and hopefully auto-start stop functions again. I'll find out on my way home.
Let’s see some wall shots... I have an issue with the passenger side on mine sloping up to the right. Also feel like the two low beam projectors on each side could be aligned better. Here’s a few shots of mine. Passenger side, Sloping up on the outer right side.
12-27-2018, 08:54 AM
