trail hopper

I know probably only a few people on the forum have these headlights yet, but I got mine today and installed them w/out too much trouble other than the halo issue.

Question 1. - Sequential Turn Signal
I noticed that when I had all the connectors in the headlight harnesses hooked up that my turn signals did not blink sequentially - they blinked as one solid light. I read through the instructions but found no mention of how to make the turns signals work sequentially. I found that if I disconnected the harness with the single pin the turn signal light would then blink sequentially. Is leaving the harness with the single pin disconnected the "proper" way to make the signals blink sequentially or is there some other way (i.e. a switch somewhere) that I missed? Update - Yes, this is the correct way to setup the sequential turn signals.

Question 2 - Halo's not working properly
When I installed the headlights I did the driver's side first - with just the driver's side headlight installed (with a non-Morimoto headlight still installed in the passenger side) the halo on the Morimoto driver's side headlight worked just as expected (i.e. - came on whenever I turned either the running lights or headlights, open/closed doors, locked/unlocked the truck). However, as soon as I installed the passenger side Morimoto headlight I noticed the Halo's on both lights did not come on anymore in the "normal" scenarios that they should be coming on [turning on running lights or headlights, locking/unlocking the doors, etc.]. I notice if I don't have the truck running and I cycle though lighting settings a few times (auto-on-running-off) the halos will randomly come on. I am kinda at a loss right now on this...everything else on the lights is functioning as it should (markers, highs/lows, turn signal). I notice in the instructions it mentions that if the running lights do not illuminate to unplug the 3-pin capacitor and retest....but that seems to be the extent of troubleshooting that they provide in the instructions. Does anyone have any ideas on what may be causing this issue? Update- If you have the dimming function of the halo/cbar on your headlights working properly you do not need to run the fuse tap if you only want the halo/cbar to come on when your running lights or headlights are on. If you want to use them as DRL, you do need to run the fuse tap (if your truck had halogen lights from the factory).

Out-of-the-box a lot of these lights do not have the dimming function on the halo/cbar working properly. The halo/cbar should noticeably dim when your headlights or running lights are on. If they are not dimming your DRL/halo/cbar outline stays on at a distractingly bright intensity when driving at night (especially for oncoming drivers). If they are not dimming properly please jump to the link below or see the attachment for more info on troubleshooting & fixes to this problem.

I have attached a troubleshooting guide to this post that was originally provided to a member by TRS/Morimoto in post 31. You want to bypass the upper capacitor (top picture in attachment) if you are having dimming issues. Here is a link to some pictures showing how the connectors should look when the upper capacitor is bypassed:
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/morim...2/#post5971620

Update- Another problem that people have noticed is FM radio signal interference when the actual headlights are on. This interference does not seem consistent across all stations, and some people seem to be having a lot more noticeable problems with this than others. As any 'fixes' are identified for this problem I will update this post further.

Update- It seems quite a few 2018+ owners are having fitment issues with these headlights on the passenger side.
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Update- Most of the issues with these headlights have been addressed by Morimoto with updated wiring harnesses/adapters. Some owners with newer yellow halo lights have complained that they do not dim when the headlights are turned on (which Morimoto now states is 'normal' for the yellow halos). It seems this behavior can be changed if you bypass the upper capacitor.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

I would contact Morimoto and ask them.

Truckin

iTrader: (4)

Hopefully it's not an opps like the old morimoto harness to convert to LED. Many people had countless issues and ended up writing off the lights..later on in forescan forum members solved the problem for them. Keep us posted

trail hopper

I just messed with it a little more and it looks like you may have to have the fuse tap in place for the halo's to work whether you use your DRL or not. In fact, with the fuse tap in place the halos come on anytime the engine is on, whether you have DRL enabled or not (I would imagine if you have your DRL enabled then your low beams will come on at reduced power as well...I didn't verify this though). I don't use the DRL on my truck so I didn't have the fuse tap in place originally.

I hope I just have something miswired as I would prefer the halo's not to be on all of the time...I highly prefer them to basically mimic the same lighting settings as the running lights. The driver's side morimoto headlight worked exactly the way I wanted when I had a non-morimoto headlight installed in the passenger side...and there was no fuse tap in place at that point either. I emailed Dawson at Raptor Retrofit and will reach out to morimoto if need be.

EPag

iTrader: (1)

You'll most likely have to wire a fuse tap to fuse 97 for vehicle power 3. That's what I did with my ANZOs before enabling with FORscan. I'm surprised you have to do that with the price they're charging for those headlights haha

ManMountainDean

What happened to "Plug and Play"?

trail hopper

I suppose because they do give you the fuse tap harness with fuses & connectors already attached it is considered 'plug and play'...in all honesty all you have to do is pop it into the fuse panel, so from that standpoint it doesn't get much easier. I was just under the impression that you didn't need to run the fuse tap unless you wanted the halo's on all the time as your DRL and that they would work basically the same as your running lights if the tap wasn't in place (basically the same way other aftermarket lights currently work by default). I am sure I can make them work this way with a few 'tweaks'...I just hope it doesn't come to that. Hopefully I am just missing something or miswired something, once a few more people get theirs installed we should have more feedback on this.

Smanale

Forgive me if the answer to this is obvious, but did you have factory LED's? I think I read that you have to wire it differently if you had halogens vs "plug and play" if you had factory LED's.

trail hopper

My truck came with factory halogens. Here is a picture of when I was changing my lights out....there is an Anzo light on the passenger side and a Morimoto light on the driver's side. In this picture only my running lights are on and the halo on the Morimoto was lit up with no fuse tap in place. However, as soon as I changed out the passenger side light (morimoto's in both sides) the halo's quit working unless I had the fuse tap in place...that is what seems 'odd' to me and has me hopeful that I just did something wrong.

Delz

iTrader: (2)

The morimoto looks a lot brighter then the anzo