Fox 2.0 coil overs:
Can't answer the setting question.
I bought from an online local truck buddy with the same truck as me (year, SCREW, motor, tranny, 4wd, same rear leaf springs) but his OE strut springs are 1 step lighter than mine). He is "Raptoring" his rig and had 5100s set to level (highest setting) for a year then went to Fox. He had Fox less than a year/less 10k miles, and decided to switch to a reservoir RC system for a possible future warranty coverage he may need. He installed Fox out of the box and his front end was too high so he lowered to level. His truck is not lifted. He and I installed his Fox on my truck. The threads showing under collar are 2-3/16". He has life going on so it's tough to get in touch with him currently.

I know I had 1-3/4" rake with 5100 rear and OE front.

From what tiny bit I read since yesterday, I like the sound of RAS, it seems like a suspension upgrade even if you don't haul/tow with no drawbacks? Would anyone add RAS to a truck new off the lot even if they aren't going to tow/haul? I like having 20" vs 18" wheels and Fox vs OE for the performance aspect, so if I make any changes to the rear, it wouldn't hurt my feelings if it increased the quality of the driving experience. I have cost concerns, keeping it reasonable and good bang for buck.

I appreciate the effort and information. I would assume other people might have similar questions, I can't be the only one!

At the end of the day, I'd rather have a Super Snake than a Raptor R

 

Which collar? The lower is referred to as the spring saddle, the top referred to as the perch. Typically, as on the 5100s, the lower, or the saddle was adjusted, then the spring assembled on the shock. You know.

So, if it's the lower, then contact Fox and get their specs, or, find a beat up 5100 and measure the circlips' guide slots (bottom is OE, then .5, 1.0. 1.5 and finally 2.0" - roughly) then compare where your saddle is parked on the shock body relative to whatever.

Once you get the front maybe dropped 1/2" or so and add the RAS, you will tweak the RAS' adjustment (easy peasy) to where you want your forward rake to be.

Cheers! . (busy day!)

 

The bottom collar shows 2-3/16" threads.

My friend I bought the truck from said he only carried his carpentry tools for work, never moved machinery, moved anyone, or really loaded the truck, it was a "car" for him. And your statement that your springs looked mostly flat makes me think I'm probably not dealing with damaged leafs. they are simply the lightest of the 4 available and flatter that a heavier spring rate pack. The truck fender lip is about 38-3/4"+ from the ground with stock 32" tires and empty. I'll accept that it is what it is and not overthink and complicate things. It's not brand new, out of warranty, and may not be perfect, and that's ok.

Looked into RAS a bit and it seems to be awesome for several reasons. I still need to learn why I would adjust the RAS after install. I'm not going to be towing or hauling in the next couple years so that aspect is not my concern. The improved performance seems worth the price of admission on its own.

Wouldn't I want to install the RAS before adjusting the level since I don't know how much it will affect the rear height? Also, re-adjusting the RAS will change the rear height?

Considering my light duty usage (no towing/hauling) any downsides to getting the HD RAS? What is the real world difference between installing standard duty vs heavy duty if not towing/hauling?

 

Yes, install the RAS first, set it to the minimum published preload (meaning, published in their printed manual that ships w/ the RAS) of a 1mm coil gap. They supply spacers to measure with. You set any minimum preload so that the RAS stays in place if you were to go off road, through a washout and flex the suspension to any great degree. I have done this and now never worry about my RAS moving (it overlaps the rear spring eye and stays there from the tension of the install - it's a simple rig, and because it's simple it works very well).

You may gain +/- 1/2" - 3/4" from the minimum preload if the truck bed is empty.

You would want to adjust it after install if, say, you started hauling a small trailer for example. It only takes a couple of wrenches.

It's a great setup. You should dig it. Cheers.

 

Thank you.
I’ll call RAS next week and see what difference there is with SD vs HD if I’m not planning on heavy tow/haul. It seems to me because of my very light spring rate that my truck would quite a bit which would call for the heavy duty set up.

FYI EDIT:
The difference between the RAS SD and HD kits for the F150:
- Physical: Thickness of the threaded rods/nuts. SD uses 22mm (7/8") nuts and the HD uses a 24mm (15/16") nuts.
- Squat: The SD kit addresses less than 2"/less than 600lb at tongue, the HD kit addresses up to 2-3"/over 600 lb at tongue.
- SD kit lift unloaded will be up to 1" and with HD up to 2" DEPENDING ON YOUR ADJUSTMENT.
- The HD kit is effectively the SD kit and HD kit combined (2 in 1), since you can adjust the HD kit it to the same exact setting as the SD kit.
- RAS recommends the HD kit in most instances.

 

In theory the RAS could move a little where it hooks over the eyelet? Like 1/8" either direction side-to-side?

I'm about the get the HD model.

 

Pay attention to your installation, and see that the rear hook is centered. It ain't moving once you set your preload.

It is surprising how many different details there are in our truck's rear axle mounting hardware/ABS/brake lines configurations. I learned this when talking to one of RAS' tech reps on the phone about an HD kit for my 4 X 2. There t'weren't none for me... which is fine since they gave me a preload suggestion that worked and since I do not tow heavy.

Good luck w/ your setup. As noted earlier, you should really like it.

 

Thanks for the input.
I'm moving forward with this, after more research and I'm 90% confident this is not only a good move, but probably the best move for me for several reasons (I drive on windy/bumpy roads).

I notice there appears to be white lithium grease on a portion that goes through the round bar into the forks? Is there any maintenance that should be done to the RAS? I didn't see any mention on their website/instructions.

 

Other than a little Kroil before my last year's adjustment for some small trailer tongue weight, no. Not for me, but I live in a very mild climate.

Your conditions may vary. Winter salt, a lot of rain/mud, freezing weather, etc... you might want to brush off the RAS once a year after winter is over and apply a few drops (DROPS) of yer favorite lo0b to any pivot points such as the area you pointed out.

 

Same. San Francisco. A little more rain than you and about few degrees cooler overall.
Virtually maintenance free, nice.
I personally have been having more than my share of issues with mud this year with gravel/dirt parking lots in the rain, and chose to drive through a couple flooded areas. I don't remember living in areas with so much "road crap" as I have now. Combined with a black truck is a recipe for a mess.

Are there any drawbacks to RAS? Noise...etc?