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you really don't need load E if your not pulling trailers or loaded down every day. The stock Raptor tires are KO2 and like load C i believe? Should be less expensive.
Do you know if it is needed or recommended to change out the control arms with after market ones to make up for any changes with the lifting. I know its messes with the alignment when you lift it but I can't seem to pin down if it an absolute necessity from one specific person. Just looked up the Halolifts and I'm finding them for about $1300 w/o CA and $1900 w/CA
Fox Stage 1 is $1039
Fox 2.0 Roush are $1250
I'm not looking for extreme off-roading - Just something better than stock that won't mess with my Max Trailering ability either - Plus the dealership says its got a leveling kit but I'd rather know I have quality parts in my suspension than just some like plates stuffed under the front end
I don't think there is any real difference between those two Fox packages except for the branding (someone please chime in if I'm incorrect.) Also, that HaloLifts package includes a rear block- the fox packages do not include a new block.
Do you know if it is needed or recommended to change out the control arms with after market ones to make up for any changes with the lifting. I know its messes with the alignment when you lift it but I can't seem to pin down if it an absolute necessity from one specific person. Just looked up the Halolifts and I'm finding them for about $1300 w/o CA and $1900 w/CA
Fox Stage 1 is $1039
Fox 2.0 Roush are $1250
I'm not looking for extreme off-roading - Just something better than stock that won't mess with my Max Trailering ability either - Plus the dealership says its got a leveling kit but I'd rather know I have quality parts in my suspension than just some like plates stuffed under the front end
I am is a similar situation in regards to usage and am not sure which way to lean. Truck is probably about 80% pavement/ 20% gravel but we also deal with rough roads in the winter and very cold temps (0F). Have heard concerns about the fox 2.0 using heavier oil and impacting winter performance but has the upside of the aluminum body for corrosion. Would like the ride to stay the same or improve and plan to have the truck for a number of years so doing it right from the start is important.
Canadian pricing hurts with the current exchange rate! There is a huge spread between the lower and upper ends of the kits.
I installed 2" spacers, have 285/65R20s and have noticed my front-end feels "loose." Is this an issue that's resolved if I go with the Bilstein 5100 adjustable kit? If I had to guess I'm probably at a 1/2" rake from back to front.
Just did a 2” with 275/65/20s and 1.5” bora wheel spacers. I have no “loose” feeling at all. Actually I’m amazed at how smooth it is for a leveling puck, all my last trucks were awful with pucks so I was hesitant to do it to this one. No regrets!
Bilstein 5100 leveling shocks front and rear ! I have a 2 inch block in the back also. I fit a 285/75R17 Nitto ridge grappler. Not a huge fan of 20" rims on trucks. I'd rather have more rubber. Stance is aggressive . I'm about 3/4 to 1" higher in the back
I went with a 2.5" with 285/65/20 (OEM) and noticed that my front end was a 1/2" higher than rear.
I knew i wanted to bring the rear end up, especially doing some hauling and towing, i decided to go with the Auto Spring Add-a-Leaf option.
I am very pleased with the turnout. I got the Add-a-Leaf done today, so haven't driven much but the ride feels more solid than it did before. I would recommend this setup if you are looking to do a level. If you don't want to do the rear, i would recommend going with a 2" level.
Last edited by K1ngR@nch; Jun 17, 2019 at 09:23 PM.
So, I had a leveling kit installed, went from 27" tires and stock wheels, to Fuel rims and 33" tall Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Had the realignment, of course.
My question is; does the change in tire size require re calibration of the speedomoter?
