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Thanks for that info. I will definitely pass this along to my service dept and see if they will do the same. Are there any specific details I can give them or just simply tell them a pcm update??
Sorry for your continued experience.
If the dealer has not made an honest attempt to look into the battery state of charge, made at least some observations or even understands all the possibilities, then get rid of the vehicle. At least someone should look at the battery voltage before cold cranking right on the dash set to Engineering Mode to view the system voltage and see if it is low as a first clue looking for the cause, and what the charging voltage is after starting. These can be clues to an issue. If no one want to try, then you have what you have.
Maybe there is an extra drain on the Battery when setting. you won't know unless this is tested for after the truck goes into normal sleep mode after about 45 minutes. There is a procedure for doing this.
What would you do if a tire goes flat? Just complain? Not trying to aggravate but be sensible about all this.
Again, very simply put, if the voltage is not up to spec, the system monitor inhibits and a failure to auto restart will occur as designed to do. That is why you see the dash screen tell to stop and manual restart. It might be a lazy battery but who is going to make the call if nothing is really done for troubleshooting?
If the engine is stalling before coming to a stop, there is some other issue going on and Auto stop/start is getting involved simply because it is in play unless cancelled on the Dash Switch for that drive cycle.
.
I don't use the function and disabled it in software. It's not a mandatory function.
My pre-start battery voltage is usually 12.2 volts +/- .1 and running voltage at 14.3 to 14.5 volts. Anything less is noted, if it continues. The battery really turns the engine over very fast under these conditions and recovers quickly on local short drive cycles.
Good look.
Sorry for your continued experience.
If the dealer has not made an honest attempt to look into the battery state of charge, made at least some observations or even understands all the possibilities, then get rid of the vehicle. At least someone should look at the battery voltage before cold cranking right on the dash set to Engineering Mode to view the system voltage and see if it is low as a first clue looking for the cause, and what the charging voltage is after starting. These can be clues to an issue. If no one want to try, then you have what you have.
Maybe there is an extra drain on the Battery when setting. you won't know unless this is tested for after the truck goes into normal sleep mode after about 45 minutes. There is a procedure for doing this.
What would you do if a tire goes flat? Just complain? Not trying to aggravate but be sensible about all this.
Again, very simply put, if the voltage is not up to spec, the system monitor inhibits and a failure to auto restart will occur as designed to do. That is why you see the dash screen tell to stop and manual restart. It might be a lazy battery but who is going to make the call if nothing is really done for troubleshooting?
If the engine is stalling before coming to a stop, there is some other issue going on and Auto stop/start is getting involved simply because it is in play unless cancelled on the Dash Switch for that drive cycle.
.
I don't use the function and disabled it in software. It's not a mandatory function.
My pre-start battery voltage is usually 12.2 volts +/- .1 and running voltage at 14.3 to 14.5 volts. Anything less is noted, if it continues. The battery really turns the engine over very fast under these conditions and recovers quickly on local short drive cycles.
Good look.
You are speaking to me about this stuff like I'm the service tech. I expect Ford to do all the proper troubleshooting when I take it to them. If they tell me they did then what else can I do. Your basically telling me not to complain about something I feel I have a right to complain about. Comparing this to a flat tire is a terrible example. You act as if i should know how to troubleshoot my vehicle myself. Then what do i have a warranty for and what good is a service dept if you think people should take care of this stuff themselves. The point is if you buy a vehicle you should not continue to have problems with said vehicle. Now I could understand if this vehicle was several years old and had several miles on it but it doesn't. It has 31,000 miles on it and is 3 years old. To me that is ridiculous. There is even a forum now where people with brand new Mavericks are having this same issue. Do you work for Ford or represent them in some way cause you are awful quick on here to take up for them? How would you feel if you only had a truck for 3 months and it continued to quit on you? Would you basically just say oh well? I feel most people would not. This is absolutely ridiculous and yes I hope soon to be done with this truck and done with Ford.
Sorry for your continued experience.
If the dealer has not made an honest attempt to look into the battery state of charge, made at least some observations or even understands all the possibilities, then get rid of the vehicle. At least someone should look at the battery voltage before cold cranking right on the dash set to Engineering Mode to view the system voltage and see if it is low as a first clue looking for the cause, and what the charging voltage is after starting. These can be clues to an issue. If no one want to try, then you have what you have.
Maybe there is an extra drain on the Battery when setting. you won't know unless this is tested for after the truck goes into normal sleep mode after about 45 minutes. There is a procedure for doing this.
What would you do if a tire goes flat? Just complain? Not trying to aggravate but be sensible about all this.
Again, very simply put, if the voltage is not up to spec, the system monitor inhibits and a failure to auto restart will occur as designed to do. That is why you see the dash screen tell to stop and manual restart. It might be a lazy battery but who is going to make the call if nothing is really done for troubleshooting?
If the engine is stalling before coming to a stop, there is some other issue going on and Auto stop/start is getting involved simply because it is in play unless cancelled on the Dash Switch for that drive cycle.
.
I don't use the function and disabled it in software. It's not a mandatory function.
My pre-start battery voltage is usually 12.2 volts +/- .1 and running voltage at 14.3 to 14.5 volts. Anything less is noted, if it continues. The battery really turns the engine over very fast under these conditions and recovers quickly on local short drive cycles.
Good look.
Some don't even check their oil level on a regular basis let alone the monitoring of the electrical system.
Only a Ford engineer can probably explain the exact events that can trigger that error, as it's not well documented, but all of this talk is about electrical. I'm not sure what the difference is, electrical wise, from the Auto Start/Stop restarting the engine or the driver restarting the engine in Park. So is this actually caused by a transmission event where it cannot be restarted while in gear?
I have a 2018 F150 XL 2.7l 4x4 with about 2400 miles. Today, I was driving and lost all engine power. An error message popped up on the instru
ment cluster saying "Auto StartStop Shift to P then restart". The truck was cold and had been sitting for 2 days. It's been about 20 degrees during the day and 0 at night. I had started the truck, let it warm for a minute then drove a mile and parked. Fifteen minutes later I started it and pulled out of a parking spot, slowed at the end of the lot and was pulling onto the road when it died and I got that message. I took a picture then put it in park and it restarted fine. I drove the mile home with no issue.
I have not gone to the dealer yet as I suspect they will just tell me to wait until it happens again. Any thoughts on what the problem may be?
this literally just happened to me, I rolled into AutoZone and the battery was bad. Replaced battery and never happened again. 2019 F150-5.0
I have a 2018 F150 Platinum with a 5.0. Had that with auto start on a stop would not crank back on or sound weak on the attempt to start several times. Replaced the battery with a new AGM battery which helped significantly, but came to the point one day that it left me stranded by not wanting to start after filling up. Prior to this i also had had weak starts or no starts from it being off, which locked me out of the drive modes. This happened maybe once or so a month, twice tops. After not starting at the gas station i decided to change the starter.
Noticed on the old starter the copper webbing/wiring, that is exposed, that goes to the solenoid was extremely corroded and hard. Would break/disintegrate when i pushed on it. The new starter was flexible. After the install, start ups were great, even when using the auto start feature. I've yet to have any further issues. This is what i went through and hopefully it helps someone else.
I will try to explain one reason auto start may fail.
Conditions; truck sets in very cold temps for more than one day.
Cranking drains power from the AGM battery.
Battery is also cold at the prevealing outside temperature.
The battery will only accepts a lower charge voltage rate, by design because the negitive cable has the Sensor that detects the conditons and inhibits auto start and results in the dash screen you see..
You don't drive far enough or long enough for the engine bay to heat the battery and except a higher charge rate for a faster recovery time..
Drive, shut motor off, crank again, the battery has even less charge left for auto starting.
You have an auto start faulure.
Why?
The motor needs an electric fuel pump for fuel, the transmission needs it's electric fluid pump located on the outside of the transmission so the tansmission will propel the vehichle in gear when the motor starts again.
If the battery voltage is too low to complete auto start functions, you will have a failure.
If the battery is aged and does not recover charge fast enough due to age and or temperature, you will have auto start failure.
I cannot explain it any simpler.
You need to know what's involved and not just complain when there is a cause present or you have a battery that is too cold for auto start conditiins, at times or there is to many stop starts before the battery recovers charge.
The system may still be able to start the motor but not in auto start mode for the above reasons.
I commute about 70 miles to and from work. I always disable the auto Start/Stop and this happened to me as I was exiting the highway & stopped at a red light. This is 68 miles into my commute, I’m pretty sure that the battery was not cold. The truck shut off again as I was backing into a parking spot, it seems like it does it whenever the truck is idling for an extended period of time. It idles rough and the RPMs drop to 0. Lately whenever I’m at a stop light I’ve been putting the truck in neutral thinking that the brake is triggering the auto/start even though I press the button to disable it whenever I am driving the truck.
