I searched and didn't find a thread on this, hopefully I won't get yelled at on my first post.

I am researching adding the locking diff to my new to me 2016 XLT 5.0 with the 3.31 open rear diff. I talked with a local shop that can order the factory locker and do all the magic in the rear end. I will handle the rest, basically all of the electronics. I know I need a new switch and transfer case control module along with programming. My question is does anyone know where the wires coming from the new locking diff plug in? I'm thinking it's either an existing connector somewhere like at the transfer case, or maybe I need to splice it into the new switch. I haven't taken mine apart to see if there are wires missing at the old switch or if they are already there. I have 2-4h-4l now.

From what I can tell, that's all I need to do although I haven't been able to find anyone that has done it yet.

Any help is appreciated.

 

It’s taped up by the frame rail on the left side of the spare.

 

Why not just throw an LSD in it and be done? No need to chase wires when it “on” all the time.

 

Here is the circuit drawing for 2016. Hope it helps.

 

Don't suppose you know how to differentiate what rear is installed on a truck? My window sticker says 3.55 ratio regular axle.
Thanks in advance.

 

The cases look different and you could post a picture of the back cover.

 

Window sticker is one place, it's also listed in the door jamb label.

 

There aren't many options out there for the Super 88, it's relatively new and as far as I know the only aftermarket option keeping the same ratio is the Yukon locker. Additionally, I would rather have an open diff with locker than an LSD, but that's personal preference.

On paper, it looks like a fairly easy option, only requiring a $50 switch and $50 module in addition to the kit, so it isn't much more money to go that route.

 

Awesome, thanks. I took a peek and am pretty sure I found it, an unused green connector with two wires that match the color code from the diagram posted above. That makes it pretty easy, I just have to go through the FORscan stuff and make sure I find all the things that need to be changed. I found one, but didn't go through in any detail. Other than that, swap the module, swap the switch and have the shop add the kit and wire to the connector.

 

This mod is something I’d consider. Would be great if you could give us a write up on your project when you’ve got it handled. Hopefully you don’t run into any snags.