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Toe is the ability to take up slack in the steering components to allow the tires to track straight. Those numbers are too close to have a significant difference between each side. If the numbers are good enough to take the slack up, your golden. The tech would check to make sure the numbers are maintained by turning the wheels one way and then the other then straight ahead. If the numbers don't change, it should be good.
Toe is the ability to take up slack in the steering components to allow the tires to track straight. Those numbers are too close to have a significant difference between each side. If the numbers are good enough to take the slack up, your golden. The tech would check to make sure the numbers are maintained by turning the wheels one way and then the other then straight ahead. If the numbers don't change, it should be good.
well nothing was moving except for toe but he said it was moving because he touch the truck and still was in the green square from 0.2 to 0.5 on the right side and left was also moving but they stayed green, so ig toe is good because the arrows were vlosento the middle?
Last edited by Julio Perdomo; Aug 25, 2020 at 12:18 PM.
The angle is determined by where ever the toe is set at. You want the toe tipped in at the front, centered, edge of the tire. This means the distance between the front edge of the tires measured laterally across both front tires is shorter than that of the rear, centered edge of the front tires. I would set the toe at the minimum spec of .20" left and right. The angle will be whatever the toe is set at and really isn't a factor other than to show what the angle is at the toe setting.
i brought it back for them to readjust it 😂 i told them how it has to be
Toe is the ability to take up slack in the steering components to allow the tires to track straight. Those numbers are too close to have a significant difference between each side. If the numbers are good enough to take the slack up, your golden. The tech would check to make sure the numbers are maintained by turning the wheels one way and then the other then straight ahead. If the numbers don't change, it should be good.
Ok the guy said its fine if it moves again its something i got going on and he said thats all the computer is gonna show me, i asked for the caster but he said thats all, so ig its wtv
That sucks. They can adjust caster the same as they can adjust camber, but changing caster adds complexity than most techs would prefer to deal with. Hell, even having the kits in, some still only want to set camber and toe.
It bothers me that they didn't even setup the sensors to display caster. Too much positive caster, steering is heavy and bumps are translated into steering changes. Too much negative caster, the vehicle wanders all over the road.
That sucks. They can adjust caster the same as they can adjust camber, but changing caster adds complexity than most techs would prefer to deal with. Hell, even having the kits in, some still only want to set camber and toe.
It bothers me that they didn't even setup the sensors to display caster. Too much positive caster, steering is heavy and bumps are translated into steering changes. Too much negative caster, the vehicle wanders all over the road.
yeah they only adjusted toe this time, camber is the same and caster is low on one side to which is pulling and hard steering, if toe and camber is good there ill be ok i dont want my tires to wear out, it seems after looking for a shop that takes their time to leave it perfect there was none, they just rush and dont try to fix it like it should be, i had to tell this guys how it was supposed to be, and they left on spec, except for caster and camber which they wanna charge me 100$ to adjust both they said its hard and **** but no
Last edited by Julio Perdomo; Aug 26, 2020 at 07:21 PM.
Put the kits in, they'll have no ground to stand on for excuses. It's agreed upon in the industry that alignments include toe, camber, and caster when adjustable. They're just taking advantage of the fact that caster adjustments, and in some cases camber, has largely disappeared. If they take 30 minutes to align a vehicle, it shouldn't cost you the typical full alignment cost of $100.
Put the kits in, they'll have no ground to stand on for excuses. It's agreed upon in the industry that alignments include toe, camber, and caster when adjustable. They're just taking advantage of the fact that caster adjustments, and in some cases camber, has largely disappeared. If they take 30 minutes to align a vehicle, it shouldn't cost you the typical full alignment cost of $100.
yeah it just has some bolts there and have to lift it up in the front and stuff, they said its not easy to adjust it and **** and they charge 100$ to adjust that with camber tf, what does the caster kit does is it easier to adjust it, and i never found an honest shop to do a perfect alignment until i told this guys toe should be equal on both sides and they left it like i said lol
Last edited by Julio Perdomo; Aug 27, 2020 at 04:38 PM.
Caster and camber on these trucks is adjusted where the lower control arm attaches to the frame. The holes for the lower control arm to frame bolts are slots to permit adjustment. From the factory, a machine adjusts the arm to the correct position during alignment.
To make adjustments without the kits requires brute force. Without the kits, when making an adjustment you can easily go way past where you intended, or it can slide back into it's original position.
The kits use a washer welded offset to nuts to create a cam. The washer fits in a slot in a bracket that is held in place by a hole in the frame. Turning the bolts moves the lower control arm towards or away from the frame. The kits don't give a crap about the tire wanting to stick to the lift, or the suspension trying to settle back to where it was. You turn the bolt head the amount of adjustment you need, it stays there.
Here's a pic of the kit, you can see the protrusion on the part that holds it in position on the frame. You turn the nut, it is forced to slide in the slot. You need two kits per truck as there are two bolts holding each LCA to the frame.
Turning both nuts on one control arm the same amount, sliding both bolts the same direction changes camber only. Doing the same, but in opposite directions changes caster only. Turning just one will change both caster and camber.
Caster and camber on these trucks is adjusted where the lower control arm attaches to the frame. The holes for the lower control arm to frame bolts are slots to permit adjustment. From the factory, a machine adjusts the arm to the correct position during alignment.
To make adjustments without the kits requires brute force. Without the kits, when making an adjustment you can easily go way past where you intended, or it can slide back into it's original position.
The kits use a washer welded offset to nuts to create a cam. The washer fits in a slot in a bracket that is held in place by a hole in the frame. Turning the bolts moves the lower control arm towards or away from the frame. The kits don't give a crap about the tire wanting to stick to the lift, or the suspension trying to settle back to where it was. You turn the bolt head the amount of adjustment you need, it stays there.
Here's a pic of the kit, you can see the protrusion on the part that holds it in position on the frame. You turn the nut, it is forced to slide in the slot. You need two kits per truck as there are two bolts holding each LCA to the frame.
Turning both nuts on one control arm the same amount, sliding both bolts the same direction changes camber only. Doing the same, but in opposite directions changes caster only. Turning just one will change both caster and camber.
ok and how much do they cost and who can install it or how
