I definitely think they've figured it out already. But why would they do anything if they can get away with paying almost nothing by telling the dealerships to reflash then say it's normal? By saying it's not normal, they risk having customers demanding new transmissions when they were under/overfilled. These forums don't help Ford at all either because there's a chance the guy that finally gets it fixed because they had a dedicated technician will come on here and tell everyone what's wrong. Then even the guys who had been satisfied with being told it's "normal" want it fixed. I'm just saying...Ford does the absolute bare minimum once the vehicle leaves the factory. That's just the truth...I guarantee the engineers already know what's going on with this and almost every other problem but their instruction is probably just for them to say it's normal and move on. The reality is, any time a dealership looks at a transmission or engine the risk for a large warranty claim exists. It's better/cheaper to just keep technicians away from the transmissions by saying there's nothing wrong.

 

I think they're just noisy, hell, we've given our truck a new nickname, Ru Paul. (Loud Tranny, get it?) anyway, I think I'll try and check the fluid level, but I don't think I'm going to send the truck back to the shop this week. It's just not worth it to me to have this much stress over a new vehicle. I am frustrated that it does have noises and issues, but I guess at the end of the day, it could be much worse. I have the videos my SM asked for, hopefully he'll send them to the Ford Engineer. Not to mention I STILL dont think it would be right of me to try and lemon/buyback this truck, ethically. I want Ford to make it right obviously, but what if it's already right? That's the one thing I can't stop thinking about.

I also can't find ANY supporting evidence anywhere that "my dealer replaced x" and "it solved y." I just read thread after thread about people getting parts replaced and the same noises/problems exist. I think overall, like I said in my "happy post," I have a full warranty on this truck and the good of Ru Paul far outweighs the "bad."

 

 

Felix,
I didn't see any response to your question, so here goes. The buyback deal from the manufacturer is when your vehicle is diagnosed with an issue, but the dealer can't seem to repair it. The buyback is similar to lemon law and uses your states lemon law guidelines, but is directly through the manufacturer, not the BBB or attorney general. I had a 2017 Mustang GT with paint issues. After 6 weeks in the shop for a repaint, the paint started to flake off. Ford offered to buy it back because it met my state guidelines for lemon law.

On my 2018 F150, I have now filed for lemon law because Ford says the issues I'm experiencing are "normal", when they aren't. I have had the exact issue of the trans going into what seemed like neutral, but once the rpms came down, it slammed into gear and lurched me forward. This has happened many times, and once with the service manager on a test drive. I called it acceleration hesitation. I got my truck back marked "normal turbo lag". I have a V8 with no turbo!!!

My truck has been diagnosed with cylinder 1 and 6 misfires, but no repairs have been done because no codes are thrown. When I took it in for the lemon law required "final fix attempt", they said cylinder 8 was misfiring, but couldn't replicate it during diagnosis. They re-flashed the trans with the latest update, it did improve about 75%, but is still not right. At stop and go rush hour traffic, in a construction zone, the trans can't decide to move the vehicle or stay stopped because of the constant gas/brake scenario of traffic driving. My truck still stumbles, surges and stutters while accelerating, which sounds like misfiring to me. I contacted the attorney general yesterday to ask for next steps since the "final fix attempt" by Ford didn't work.

Good luck with your issues. You have the same as I do.

By the way, after a heavy rain, or after you wash your truck, open the doors and see if water is leaking out from your door panels into the truck. I thought I had water on the sill due to opening the door and water just running down, but I found the sill had water on it because it leaked out of the door panel. That could also be why door latches are freezing.

 

Apologies this took so long, but I've tried to re-create what you did in your video in this one. The engine and trans are fully up to temp, and this video is of me driving through my neighborhood. I'm driving between 15 and 30 MPH here, and holding a steady 25MPH for most of the video. I only used light throttle applications, as you noted heavy throttle does not illicit the same response. I do want to note that I have removed the intake silencers for the turbos, so you will hear them spool at a couple points in the video (I'm surprised the video picked it up it isn't that loud in person). The audio pickup seems excellent as well, you can hear my hands on the wheel.

Anyway, I hope this helps.

 

BierNut, that video is AWESOME! Thank you SO MUCH! Exactly what I wanted to see. Thank you for taking the time to do that. Can I include a link to the video in my write-up to the dealer?

Again, I can't thank you enough, I knew the whine noise wasn't normal. It's driving me bonkers.

Back to the shop on Monday for several other knocks and the off-throttle rattle. But now I'll also have them revisit the transmission whine.

 

Absolutely!

 

Yup, I have the whinny trans and the chattering sound when cold too.I'm at 4500 miles and put 3 quarts of oil in so far. It's about time for its first service and I will have all these things well documented. I've Lemond Lawed 2 vehicles in the last 15 years. One Ford and one Chevrolet and both were transmission problems. Plus they were far worse than these noises. The 2004 GT Mustang would redline the engine going from revere to drive without your foot on the gas. The 2017 Chevy Silverado High country with the 8-speed would downshift "kinda like in sport mode" but it would drop 2 or 3 gears at highway speeds locking the rear tires. It would also slam hard into gears while driving in the parking lot at 10 MPH.
Edit: I need to have them fix the seatbelt fire risk thingy too.

 

I'm confused, is this thread about the 5.0 or the 10R80?