Trouble codes
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Joined: Oct 2019
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From: Augusta Ga.
Trouble codes
My truck has codes 327 , EGR valve position circuit below minimum voltage. 327 , EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage. 328 , EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected. Checked voltage at the plug for valve position sensor and it reads 5.0 volts which is correct according to Haynes manual. So do you think its the valve position sensor, the EGR valve, or something else? thanks for any help
Martin
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Lehi, Utah
With any code related to the EGR the first thing I'd check for is a vacuum leak. Common leak locations are white vacuum line near passenger side firewall and rubber attachment boots at the EGR/EVR as well as the assorted hard plastic vacuum tube. I'd start there and move on.
Member
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From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
My truck has codes 327 , EGR valve position circuit below minimum voltage. 327 , EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage. 328 , EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected. Checked voltage at the plug for valve position sensor and it reads 5.0 volts which is correct according to Haynes manual.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2019
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From: Augusta Ga.
That's VREF; not EVP. You checked the wrong wire's voltage. There are 3 wires: VREF (+5VDC), SIGRET (0VDC/ground), and EVP (the signal output going to the EEC). Measure voltage from EVP to SIGRET with the key in RUN.Don't guess - diagnose. Once you have the correct wires, apply vacuum to the EGR, and check that the EVP changes within the correct range.The valve doesn't make or affect the voltage, so it can't possibly be the valve, no matter what code you get.Yes, there are many other problems that can result in those codes: vacuum lines/reservoir, wires, EEC, battery terminals, other electrical connectors...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 11
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From: Augusta Ga.
With any code related to the EGR the first thing I'd check for is a vacuum leak. Common leak locations are white vacuum line near passenger side firewall and rubber attachment boots at the EGR/EVR as well as the assorted hard plastic vacuum tube. I'd start there and move on.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 11
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From: Augusta Ga.
With any code related to the EGR the first thing I'd check for is a vacuum leak. Common leak locations are white vacuum line near passenger side firewall and rubber attachment boots at the EGR/EVR as well as the assorted hard plastic vacuum tube. I'd start there and move on.
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From: Oregon
Welcome to the wonderful world of ford plastic vacuum lines that SUUUCK.
That white one is the worst because it gets degraded by UV exposure coming through the hood cracks. I remember when I first looked at it and it started to crumble in my hands. If I recall, 3/32" ID rubber vacuum line will fix that one.
This would be a good time to replace all of the plastic crap with silicone or rubber. 20' or so of 5/32" ID and 6-8' of 7/32" ID will do the job and cost less than a case of beer.
That white one is the worst because it gets degraded by UV exposure coming through the hood cracks. I remember when I first looked at it and it started to crumble in my hands. If I recall, 3/32" ID rubber vacuum line will fix that one.
This would be a good time to replace all of the plastic crap with silicone or rubber. 20' or so of 5/32" ID and 6-8' of 7/32" ID will do the job and cost less than a case of beer.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Augusta Ga.
Welcome to the wonderful world of ford plastic vacuum lines that SUUUCK.
That white one is the worst because it gets degraded by UV exposure coming through the hood cracks. I remember when I first looked at it and it started to crumble in my hands. If I recall, 3/32" ID rubber vacuum line will fix that one.
This would be a good time to replace all of the plastic crap with silicone or rubber. 20' or so of 5/32" ID and 6-8' of 7/32" ID will do the job and cost less than a case of beer.
That white one is the worst because it gets degraded by UV exposure coming through the hood cracks. I remember when I first looked at it and it started to crumble in my hands. If I recall, 3/32" ID rubber vacuum line will fix that one.
This would be a good time to replace all of the plastic crap with silicone or rubber. 20' or so of 5/32" ID and 6-8' of 7/32" ID will do the job and cost less than a case of beer.
Member
Joined: Jan 2018
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From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
It's not much more to use colored silicone that matches each factory line's color, so the vacuum map still makes sense. I get a few meters of each color in 3mmID x ~9mmOD on ebay.