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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 01:37 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Steve83
It's not much more to use colored silicone that matches each factory line's color, so the vacuum map still makes sense. I get a few meters of each color in 3mmID x ~9mmOD on ebay.
Going to check ebay now
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 07:31 AM
  #12  
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Fixed the white vacuum line which got rid of code 327 but still have code 328, EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 05:33 PM
  #13  
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Martin
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I'm betting the rubber boots that attach line to different components, they stretch and crack.
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Old Oct 27, 2019 | 06:55 PM
  #14  
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Code 327 came back also
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 01:13 AM
  #15  
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It doesn't take much of a vacuum leak to start throwing EGR codes. The EGR requires a lot of vacuum to function, it's constantly applying and releasing vacuum while driving. That's why when you get a small vacuum leak it's the first thing to throw a code. The electronics just verify the EGR valve is where it is supposed to be.
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 11:36 AM
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IDK where you're getting that. EGR doesn't use substantially more vacuum pressure or volume than secondary air (which has 2 modulated diaphragms). And it uses far less than HVAC or cruise control. If a code involving EGR is thrown first, it's only because that's where the problem is apparent - not because of a general vacuum problem.
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