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Throttle postion sensor replacement

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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:29 PM
  #31  
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Thanks Sean that was a better explanation of how to do it. Now here is my final question. As you see I have three terminals, each of a different color. To use the voltmeter, can I use the battery ground and probe the wires to get a signal, or do the ground need to be one of the three wires? Also you mention at idle and full throttle, but the key is turned to ON but not running. I understand with the engine running at idle and throttle open, but not without it being on. Therefore, with the engine off, key ON, am I to push on the throttle to obtain a different resistance? If you haven't guessed yet, I am very literal.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:50 PM
  #32  
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The TPS still gives a signal without the truck running. So key on engine off and operate the throttle to change the value. The dark green wire with the light green stripe is the signal wire. I believe the black wire with a white stripe is ground and the orange wire with the white stripe is power. The book doesn't distinguish power or ground so you can test the power wire first. Hook the negative to the battery or even to any metal surface and probe both those wires. Probing negative to negative won't hurt anything, and of course the one that gives you power is positive. The way I wrote out the test is exactly how the book says, so I would use the negative wire on the sensor to be sure.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:57 PM
  #33  
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Sounds good I will check it out tomorrow and see what I get. IT is storming over here right now, so now outside work!!
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 07:07 PM
  #34  
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Ok, went to the "dirt yard" today to pick out a TP sensor. I know it isn't the best place but I didn't want to spend money on something I wasn't for sure was the cause. Also, I am still not picking up a voltage from my TP sentor, but my battery on my device was low and bad, so I figured I would go a different route. I found a few at the place, but figured I would pick the cleanest looking one and from the newest model (I think I found one from a 91). I had to remove my TB and such but removed the old and screwed on the "new". Put everything back and ........still no difference. The engine still delays (continue to rev) when letting up on the throttle. This is bothering me because when shifting gears, I want the engine to slow down because I don't want to damage the tranny, does this make sense or am I making a mound out of a mole hill? What else could it be, mabe the IAC? Just throwing something out there.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 07:39 PM
  #35  
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If the 2nd one is doing the exact same thing, it's probably not the TPS. Hard to believe that 2 of them could be bad in exactly the same way...

I've never heard of this being an issue on the F150's, but a lot of mustang guys (late 80's early 90's 5.0's) put IAC restrictors on to limit the revs between shifts. You can check this out for something to think about:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts...1%7C240%3A1318
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 08:13 PM
  #36  
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I agree, that is why I went there. I figured that there couldn't be a coincidence that another one was bad as well. The restrictor actually makes a lot of sense. I think the terminology of "hanging RPM's" is exactly what it sounds like. If that is the case, would the IAC be the problem itself, do they go out and is there a way to test it?
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #37  
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The IAC is a common part that goes bad and will screw with the idle. With mine, when it messes up I turn the key off and on real quick so the truck doesn't stall. This resets the IAC and stabilizes the idle. But on mine the RPMs rise fairly high and stick there. You can try that to see if the idle changes, it's not much of a test really but it's the only way I know to check mine. You can try cleaning it too.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:31 PM
  #38  
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I will take it off tomorrow and see if cleaning it helps. Otherwise I may have to look into the restrictor.....well maybe after replacing it with another from the "yard" just to make sure.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:44 PM
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And obviously, the IAC is another one that if it's sticking, another one probably won't stick in the same spot or the same way.

I tried cleaning mine last fall, and it didn't free it up. I ended up buying a new one.

I guess the restrictor wouldn't be too tough to try. It's just a gasket with smaller holes in it. For $6, you might be able to find a sheet of gasket material and cut your own out - use your old gasket as a template, and cut smaller holes in it. You could experiment with different sizes to suit your situation.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #40  
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Yeah, I may do that. I will keep the post after i experiment.
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