Thermostat or No Thermostat?
04-27-2012, 07:34 AM
#101
Senior Member
So I read claims of temp gauge pointing to letters, and a truck that runs better than anyone's but for some reason overheats when the proper parts are attached. I've seen rebuttal such quoted text book operational description of the ecu. Which was ignored. I've seen well meaning people offer advice just to be insulted. ( By the way I didn't see you list changing your radiator cap. That's usually the cause of low temp overflow. Just in case you overlooked it. ) But no one has offered up hard numbers for evidence. ( other than the afore mentioned numbers quoted by ymeski ). We all know the temp sensor and gauge is just a fancy warning light. Is anyone willing to put an actual thermometer on the coolant to prove their theory? How about a dyno test and real mpg numbers. Verified by gas receipt and gps. I for one am willing to take anyone at their word that they performed these tests. Id love to hear the numbers from the truck that is better than all others. As for t-stat or no, If I believed that strongly that it made that much of a benefit It would be well worth a little time to prove it to.myself with hard numbers. Any innovation that can save 2 or more mpg is worth millions in the American market. If you have real proof you've got a gold mine to sell. Just saying. And last, according to Ford tech service, if a vehicle continues to overheats after eliminating all parts of the cooling system, a problem with the base engine is indicated. However in your case it doesn't sound like an actual overheats, more like you prefer it to run cooler.
04-27-2012, 07:46 AM
#102
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Warlockk
So I read claims of temp gauge pointing to letters, and a truck that runs better than anyone's but for some reason overheats when the proper parts are attached. I've seen rebuttal such quoted text book operational description of the ecu. Which was ignored. I've seen well meaning people offer advice just to be insulted. ( By the way I didn't see you list changing your radiator cap. That's usually the cause of low temp overflow. Just in case you overlooked it. ) But no one has offered up hard numbers for evidence. ( other than the afore mentioned numbers quoted by ymeski ). We all know the temp sensor and gauge is just a fancy warning light. Is anyone willing to put an actual thermometer on the coolant to prove their theory? How about a dyno test and real mpg numbers. Verified by gas receipt and gps. I for one am willing to take anyone at their word that they performed these tests. Id love to hear the numbers from the truck that is better than all others. As for t-stat or no, If I believed that strongly that it made that much of a benefit It would be well worth a little time to prove it to.myself with hard numbers. Any innovation that can save 2 or more mpg is worth millions in the American market. If you have real proof you've got a gold mine to sell. Just saying. And last, according to Ford tech service, if a vehicle continues to overheats after eliminating all parts of the cooling system, a problem with the base engine is indicated. However in your case it doesn't sound like an actual overheats, more like you prefer it to run cooler.
Two great points here, putting the thermometer in the coolant. (which I will be doing soon), and using your gas receipts and/or a dyno to get the truth about your trucks performance. My last fillup was proof of that, as I got 145 miles out of my last tank, (up from 138), and only put in 13 gal vs the usual 15.
04-27-2012, 07:49 AM
#103
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Warlockk
So I read claims of temp gauge pointing to letters, and a truck that runs better than anyone's but for some reason overheats when the proper parts are attached. I've seen rebuttal such quoted text book operational description of the ecu. Which was ignored. I've seen well meaning people offer advice just to be insulted. ( By the way I didn't see you list changing your radiator cap. That's usually the cause of low temp overflow. Just in case you overlooked it. ) But no one has offered up hard numbers for evidence. ( other than the afore mentioned numbers quoted by ymeski ). We all know the temp sensor and gauge is just a fancy warning light. Is anyone willing to put an actual thermometer on the coolant to prove their theory? How about a dyno test and real mpg numbers. Verified by gas receipt and gps. I for one am willing to take anyone at their word that they performed these tests. Id love to hear the numbers from the truck that is better than all others. As for t-stat or no, If I believed that strongly that it made that much of a benefit It would be well worth a little time to prove it to.myself with hard numbers. Any innovation that can save 2 or more mpg is worth millions in the American market. If you have real proof you've got a gold mine to sell. Just saying. And last, according to Ford tech service, if a vehicle continues to overheats after eliminating all parts of the cooling system, a problem with the base engine is indicated. However in your case it doesn't sound like an actual overheats, more like you prefer it to run cooler.
04-27-2012, 07:52 AM
#104
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Warlockk
So I read claims of temp gauge pointing to letters, and a truck that runs better than anyone's but for some reason overheats when the proper parts are attached. I've seen rebuttal such quoted text book operational description of the ecu. Which was ignored. I've seen well meaning people offer advice just to be insulted. ( By the way I didn't see you list changing your radiator cap. That's usually the cause of low temp overflow. Just in case you overlooked it. ) But no one has offered up hard numbers for evidence. ( other than the afore mentioned numbers quoted by ymeski ). We all know the temp sensor and gauge is just a fancy warning light. Is anyone willing to put an actual thermometer on the coolant to prove their theory? How about a dyno test and real mpg numbers. Verified by gas receipt and gps. I for one am willing to take anyone at their word that they performed these tests. Id love to hear the numbers from the truck that is better than all others. As for t-stat or no, If I believed that strongly that it made that much of a benefit It would be well worth a little time to prove it to.myself with hard numbers. Any innovation that can save 2 or more mpg is worth millions in the American market. If you have real proof you've got a gold mine to sell. Just saying. And last, according to Ford tech service, if a vehicle continues to overheats after eliminating all parts of the cooling system, a problem with the base engine is indicated. However in your case it doesn't sound like an actual overheats, more like you prefer it to run cooler.
04-27-2012, 07:56 AM
#105
Senior Member
Thread Starter
correct me if im wrong just cause we all have same gauge on our dash doesnt mean their all calibrated exactly the same and read consistent to each others.
04-27-2012, 08:02 AM
#106
Senior Member
Originally Posted by 1FTDF15Y6SLC02010
correct me if im wrong just cause we all have same gauge on our dash doesnt mean their all calibrated exactly the same and read consistent to each others.
04-27-2012, 10:17 AM
#107
It's a Canadian thing eh!
My gauge just recently starting spazzing out, looks like I'll be getting a new sending unit soon. But your right I don't think all the gauges are calibrated the same. When I first got the truck, all the gauges(other than fuel) would read at almost a perfect 90deg angle vertically, now coolant gauge sits between the N and O and wont move but gets up to temp quickly but when I had the 180 T stat I barely touched the N.
Looking into getting some mechanical gauges soon when work picks up so I can accurately see what I'm getting other than a warning light.
Looking into getting some mechanical gauges soon when work picks up so I can accurately see what I'm getting other than a warning light.
04-27-2012, 10:51 AM
#108
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Location: Long Beach Calimexifornia
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My gauge just recently starting spazzing out, looks like I'll be getting a new sending unit soon. But your right I don't think all the gauges are calibrated the same. When I first got the truck, all the gauges(other than fuel) would read at almost a perfect 90deg angle vertically, now coolant gauge sits between the N and O and wont move but gets up to temp quickly but when I had the 180 T stat I barely touched the N.
Looking into getting some mechanical gauges soon when work picks up so I can accurately see what I'm getting other than a warning light.
Looking into getting some mechanical gauges soon when work picks up so I can accurately see what I'm getting other than a warning light.
About $20 at Harbor Freight & tool. Aim at thermostat housing when at Norm Operating temp. This will tell you it's true coolant temp, that the ECU is relying on.
I run a 180F thermostat to offset the fact I have my base timing set to 16BTDC. So my engine would run too hot to avoid Ping temp threshold w/ a stock 195F. If I wasn't further advancing My base timing the additional 6 degree's, I'd go w/ a 195F.
Could probably run a 195F if I upped my octane used, buy I don't want to run higher than 87 octane (except on long hard road trips I'll run 89) for reasons that aren't really relative to this Thread. But if your interested in fine tuning coolant temp to timing /octane choice: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/about-...ng-bump-53159/
W/ my base timing advanced the additional 6 degrees, w/ a 180F thermostat, my norm operating coolant temp at idle is 184-187F.
Last edited by ymeski56; 04-27-2012 at 11:21 AM.
04-27-2012, 11:07 AM
#109
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Sensor (to ECU)
Here is a link explaining ECT sensor function. This communicates w/ the ECU. Not to be confused w/ the Coolant Temp "Sender" which functions as the Gauge pick up:http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=28
Sender (To gauge)
Last edited by ymeski56; 04-27-2012 at 11:14 AM.
04-27-2012, 11:31 AM
#110
Just my two cents on the subject. As metal heats, it expands. The OEM operating temperature gives a controled rate of expansion in the cylinders. If the metal isn't expanding enough, the piston rings won't seal as well as they should, and you will also get excessive cylinder wall wear. Engines are pretty cheap now and are made to be thrown away, so it's argueable that premature engine wear is an acceptable alternative to never having to deal with a stuck thermostat.