I have a 1987 Ford F-150 lariat. My grandpa bought it brand new, and now I am in control of it. The engine has approx. 5000 miles, since we rebuilt it at 300k. All the sensors were supposedly replaced at a shop after we rebuilt the motor about 5 years ago. It was running really rich, and I put a new ECU in it and it began to run better, but would not idle, so I ordered another computer (warranty) Before that came in, I washed the truck and backed it up to move it over in the driveway, when I pulled it forward, it cut off and has not started since. It is a 302 EFI
What it does:
--It cranks, acts like it is firing on one cylinder, does not start.
--Flooring the pedal makes it a little better, still does not start.
--Getting 55lbs of pressure off the schrader valve
--Getting injector pulse (using a noid light)
-- I am getting an orange spark (was told this distributor/coil would not
produce a blue spark) between the coil and distributor and from the
distributor and plugs.
--Brand new ignition module.
-- I tried a new ignition switch, did not change anything.
--Distributor cap is dry underneath
--Rotor button is moving
--Will not start off ether

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks

 

I've never heard a coil wouldn't produce a blue spark. It sounds weak to me. Check compression and timing. Have your coil tested.

 

I would swap out the distributor

 

How would you test the coil other then a spark light?

 

The new ignition module might not be the source of the problem but it could certainly aggravate it.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=183668

I recently bought KEM on closeout. Double & triple checked the cross reference chart to make sure that it was the right one. When it came in ... sure enough it was the wrong color.

I threw it in just to see what would happen last weekend and the motor would not start well at all. Ran poorly over the road. When i ran a KOER test one of the error codes returned was in the PIP circuit.

Put the original back in and the problems & error code cleared.

You might want to double check and make sure that you got the right ignition module.

 

I believe AutoZone still does tests on coils. You need a meter to read the output voltage. However with a handheld meter you can measure resistance across the primary and secondary coils and compare them to specs. That should give you a pretty good idea of its condition. Then test for reference voltage to the coil. ( I think its 12v on our trucks ). I know AutoZone tested the control module. Also check plugs and wires.

 

I just tested the coil, between the two post, I have .3 ohms between the post and the main out cable, I have 8.77 thousands ohms according to another online forum, this appears to be within limits, just so though... How can I test the distributor?


Thanks for the help

 

I only have 11 V coming to the coil.

 

Probably that module in the distributor. Best bet would be to put a reman dis in it. Thats what im about to do in my 87

 

There is a very good test sequence for the PIP and the DEM in the Haynes manual. Probably better to make sure then to just throw a part at it.