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Starting issues! PLEASE HELP

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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 12:58 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 5Rangers
There is a very good test sequence for the PIP and the DEM in the Haynes manual. Probably better to make sure then to just throw a part at it.
X2.
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Old Sep 8, 2012 | 08:18 PM
  #12  
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Default one small problem

The diaphragm in the fuel regulator was busted, replaced it, seems like it helped, but still not starting.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 04:28 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by fly2ryde
I have a 1987 Ford F-150 lariat. The engine has approx. 5000 miles, since we rebuilt it at 300k. All the sensors were supposedly replaced at a shop after we rebuilt the motor about 5 years ago. It was running really rich, and I put a new ECU in it and it began to run better, but would not idle, so I ordered another computer (warranty) Before that came in, I washed the truck and backed it up to move it over in the driveway, when I pulled it forward, it cut off and has not started since. It is a 302 EFI
What it does:
--It cranks, acts like it is firing on one cylinder, does not start.
--Flooring the pedal makes it a little better, still does not start.
--Getting 55lbs of pressure off the schrader valve
--Getting injector pulse (using a noid light)
-- I am getting an orange spark (was told this distributor/coil would not
produce a blue spark) between the coil and distributor and from the
distributor and plugs.
--Brand new ignition module.
-- I tried a new ignition switch, did not change anything.
--Distributor cap is dry underneath
--Rotor button is moving
--Will not start off ether

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks
And you replaced the FPR.

The one thing you said that really strands out for me is the " It cranks, acts like it is firing on one cylinder, does not start" .

To me, that sounds like a timing issue. Have you verified that timing is where it should be?

What did you do with the replacement ECU? I didn't see where you said what happened there.
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 09:22 PM
  #14  
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The timing is were it should be, I tried moving the plugs one terminal each direction, no results. I did the PIP and SPOUT test today, both passed. I put the new ECU in with no changes. Also, I am losing voltage to the coil when I plug it in, I have 11.4 volts when I have the connector unplugged, but when I plug it in, it drops to zero.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:06 PM
  #15  
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Have you followed the test sequence for the coil? Also, what process did you use to verify timing?
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 01:28 PM
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I did the resistance test according to the haynes manual. I have not put the engine on tdc yet, but unless the timing jumped more then two poles it should be on time, I am going to pull the plug and put it on tdc today.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 09:39 PM
  #17  
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I put the engine on TDC and the timing was rotor was right at 1 on the cap.
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 11:06 PM
  #18  
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Check and clean all the grounds in your engine bay. It can't hurt, its easy to do. Bad grounds can cause really strange symptoms, that just don't make sense.
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 02:15 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 5Rangers
Check and clean all the grounds in your engine bay. It can't hurt, its easy to do. Bad grounds can cause really strange symptoms, that just don't make sense.
Excellent Advice!
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 06:56 PM
  #20  
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grounds are clean, no difference
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