Stalling Need Help!
1994 Ford F150 XL 5.0 EFI 5-Speed 2 Wheel-Drive Long Wheel Base with Dual Tanks
My truck stalls just about every time i go to slow down. I will be coming to a stop, when i press the clutch and the brake to slow down and switch gears when it about dies. sometimes it will completely die, but will start back up. Other times it will just come very close to dieing, but kick back to normal. it only does it when im slowing down to stop. and it doesnt really matter if it has warmed up or not it will do it regardless. Someone told me it could be electrical cause when it about stalls the battery meter will go below normal then back to were it should be when it kicks back up. i have a new battery, and have changed both fuel filters, looked for vacuum leaks and haven't found anything wrong. it has almost became dangerous, and i have about took it to the ditch many times over it dieing and locking up.. i really need some help please and thank you.
My truck stalls just about every time i go to slow down. I will be coming to a stop, when i press the clutch and the brake to slow down and switch gears when it about dies. sometimes it will completely die, but will start back up. Other times it will just come very close to dieing, but kick back to normal. it only does it when im slowing down to stop. and it doesnt really matter if it has warmed up or not it will do it regardless. Someone told me it could be electrical cause when it about stalls the battery meter will go below normal then back to were it should be when it kicks back up. i have a new battery, and have changed both fuel filters, looked for vacuum leaks and haven't found anything wrong. it has almost became dangerous, and i have about took it to the ditch many times over it dieing and locking up.. i really need some help please and thank you.
x2 on pulling codes, the battery gauge is actually measuring output of the alternator, this could mean that the alt is going bad or it's just reducing it's output because the motor is slowing to far down. Watch the gauge when this happens to try to determine which is happening first, gauge needle drops or starts to stall.
x2 on cleaning the IAC and TB, never really hurts to clean either one. Before you do that get a multimeter on the TPS (should be .9-.97v with closed throttle).
Check and clean terminals on battery along with the body ground going from - terminal as well as the one from the engine block to the firewall.
x2 on cleaning the IAC and TB, never really hurts to clean either one. Before you do that get a multimeter on the TPS (should be .9-.97v with closed throttle).
Check and clean terminals on battery along with the body ground going from - terminal as well as the one from the engine block to the firewall.
honestly... this would be my first ford, and i don't know a whole lot about them yet and im just trying to get an idea of were to start. i haven't done anything to the truck yet, just trying to find the best place to start on a low budget. i am mechanically incline and can do most of the work myself. But, no, i haven't checked or messed with anything so far.
its been happening for awhile now so im used to watching for it and listening for it. usually, when i go to slow down i watch the battery gauge, and my whole cluster to see if its going to die or not. i will engage both pedals, it gets quiet at the needle drops pretty much at the same time. Then it will kick back up, to normal idle or will die and i will have to start it right back up.
i have bought a new battery, and have replaced the terminals about 2 weeks ago.
But thank you, i will keep looking into it, and start were you have told me to start. any more info will be greatly appreciated.
i have bought a new battery, and have replaced the terminals about 2 weeks ago.
But thank you, i will keep looking into it, and start were you have told me to start. any more info will be greatly appreciated.
Could have something to do with the alternator. It's not hard to remove. I think I would yank that thing off and have it tested. The parts stores have a machine they can put it on and tell you how much it's putting out. Maybe at the lower rpm, it's not able to produce enough power? Just a thought, but worth a shot.
There are electrical switches on both the clutch and brake pedals. Might be worth a look what with the pedals being involved.
I think the clutch pedal switch is possibly tied in to the start/run circuit. Look up a wiring diagram for your year on that circuit.
I think the clutch pedal switch is possibly tied in to the start/run circuit. Look up a wiring diagram for your year on that circuit.
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as soon as i can make it out, im going to buy the the stuff to clean my MAF and IAC, and test my TPS. While im out i will go ahead and have them test my alternator. if none of those are the problem then i will look into the the electronics to my pedals. i had went to autozone and they said it could be shorting out some were when i engage my clutch, with the rods crossing over some were, but it has a hydraulic clutch. then they pulled the clutch switch thing up on the computer but said it couldn't be that. buttttttttt its still worth looking into cause it needs to be fixed. thanks alot.
Does my truck even have an MAF sensor???????? Cause i looked for it and could not find anything that looked like it. the only thing that was attached to my TB was my IAC valve and the TPS. I would like to find it, if there is one lol please and thank you.
It’s you TPS or IAC... remove and clean your throttle body and remove the TPS and IAC and clean them...they may need to be replaced.. but you can try and clean them fist..the reason your battery meter falls is because, your idle is falling to near stall...the alt is not spinning fast enough. had the same problem... and your truck does have a MAF...clean that also with the proper cleaner.




