i have already taken the TB off, and it has the sticker informing not to clean it. I have cleaned my IAC so far, but didnt mess with my TPS. i am going to test it when i get the chance, and may just replace it. I do have pictures and have looked every were, but i do not see the MAF anywere. someone said, i may be a lil wrong here, but were its EEC 4, it dont have the MAF, but something about speed density.
Earlier today, i had tried pulling codes, but that failed. i did the KOEO test, and everything was fine, i had one Continuous code, which was 212- loss of IDM input to PCM or Spout circuit grounded, but do not know anything about that. then i tried running the KOER test, and it could not even keep the right rpm. it would wanna die through both test, when it would rev up and then let off it would wanna die, just like when i drive it. then it gave me these 2 codes, 411- Cannot control rpm during KOER low rpm check & 412- Cannot control rpm during KOER high rpm check. So, i really dont know were the hell to go from here:/ i really appreciate all the help i can get, and i apologize for the inexperince lol

 

I dont know if this info helps or not, but i just figured this out. it will die when im not driving. when im driving and come to a stop i started listening, when i enegage the clutch i would let off the gas at the same time and it sounds as if the rpms are not dropping properly it sounds like i still have foot on the pedal for just a second, even tho i dont, then it would drop to idle, when it gets to idle is when it wants to die. i got home just a few minutes a go and sat in the drive way. i revved it a couple of times, without it out of gear and not pressing any other pedal, as soon as i let off the gas is sounds like it sticks for just a second and when it drops it tries to stall, like it goes to low. i held the gas down for just a few seconds probably around 2500-3000 rpms and let off, when it dropped it died. started it right back up, gave it gas a couple of times and when i let off, it dropped and tried stalling every time. i really hope this info helps!!!!

 

if your not gonna do what we suggest stop asking...

 

The Throttle Body wasn't built to be cleaned for the first 10 years, it came with a teflon type coating that reduced carbon build up. Thing with teflon is after years of getting hot and cooling down it starts to disintegrate and loose it's "non-stick" properties. TB cleaner is supposed to be safe on the coating but cleaning the inside is a waste of time in my eyes unless it has serious buildup. Cleaning the valves IS a necessity, though, when they get deposits around the edge it prevents the valve from fully closing as idle essentially rendering the IAC useless. Cleaning just the edges is good but the gunk on the back of the valve blade will migrate to the edges fairly quickly so the entire valve blade should be cleaned, along with the area of the TB around the edges of the blade and the IAC. I'm not sure how you would "clean" the TPS, besides maybe the electrical connector, that part is a replace when it starts to fail part.

Clean TB? Yes, the valve blade anyway and surrounding body interior (must create a good seal). If you have serious buildup on the inside that is somehow restricting airflow or changing the flow pattern (peaks and valleys) then remove the TB and clean it with toothbrush and rags after soaking it if needed (nothing that will score the interior). Don't use brake cleaner as it will eat any of the remaining coating (doubtful that there is any left though).

Clean the IAC? Yes, will it help? Depends on how bad it has gotten, if regularly cleaned the IAC will last a very long time. If it has been strained because of excessive buildup then it's very likely that cleaning it will only be a temporary solution and it will probably need replaced.

Clean the TPS? Connectors yes, quick drying electronic clean. Other than that there isn't anything to clean without being able to get inside the sensor body which I don't know how you would without destroying the sensor. First step with a bad TPS is always clean the connector, corrosion is a bitch. Then test with a multimeter to ensure proper voltage (.9-.97 with closed throttle, I think 5v wide open). You can adjust the TPS if necessary by loosening the mount screws and rotating it slightly, this works if the sensor is still good. If you are not getting anything close to a correct reading then the TPS must be replaced, save yourself some headaches and just get a motorcraft one.

EDIT:
My 94 5.8 doesn't have MAF, I have MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure).

 

cleaned my TB with TB cleaner.. the whole thing 10 years old at the time.. looked brand new after.. but, i just replaced the TPS and IAC under $100 for both and it ran like a champ. 94/5.0

 

TPS, IAC. Test the tps for proper voltage and steady climb and fall of voltage as the throttle plates are opened and closed. If the IAC is too dirty get a new one.
You probably have a speed density system. Usually didn't see MAF on manuals till 95. Totally different way of measuring intake air volume and injector firing controls.
MAF is identified by an aluminum housing w/ sensor and wiring bolted to the air filter box (the intake hose clamps on to it).

 

Work on ur know code 212 soon.

 

okay, just so everyone knows, i have done every single thing anyone has told me so far. im just giving the information i already know, and letting everyone know what i have done so far, cause nothing has helped. i took my throttle body off the truck, i didnt wanna clean it cause i didnt wanna take the chance. all i have carb cleaner, if that will work, i will clean it out? i just didnt know at the time, i have tried doing all the research i could.
i did take the IAC valve off the throttle body, spray it completely out, let it sit just a few minutes, alot of crap came out of it, i let it air dry and reinstall.
i am going to check the TPS, it didnt look like it could be back probed in any way, so im just going to buy the tool in about a week. the biggest thing im trying to prevent is messing anything up, cause i do not have the money to replace it on the spot. and i would be in a terrible spot, cause that is my only vehicle. and i surely cannot afford a garage trip just yet.
I Finally had the time to research on how to pull codes and such, and i did. i also just wanted yall to know the result of all that. Cause its all Completely new to me. Im working on everything i can as soon as i can.
But yes, i completely appreciate all the help, suggestions, and the new things i am now learning about my new ford.

 

From what I've read you've only have this truck for a while and don't know the history of it. The previous owner thinking it idles too high could have attempted to turn down the idol. He might've done this by turning the set screw down on the throttlebody. Having the setscrew so low that it doesn't make contact with the throttlebody plate can cause this. The throttlebody plate needs to be slightly open for proper operation. Just throwing this out there as it is something I've seen quite a few times.
It won't hurt to take the setscrew and adjust the idle up a little bit. Even if the idol seems a little high right now the computer will adjust the idol as you drive.

 

You can backprobe the tps simply by taking a safety pin or needle of some sort and carefully pierce the wires going into the sensor. Makes it a lot easier to do it and shouldn't mess anything up at all.


And like sdmartin65 says, someone sure could have tried to adjust the idle before you got it. If you want to go that route, be careful. You could mess it up worse. If you expect it may have been adjusted at some point, there's a procedure you can follow to re-adjust it to it's original setting. I think I saw it in my Haynes manual, but it's probably here on the forum too.