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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 05:07 PM
  #11  
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So where do I start I just bought this truck last weekend. There was a new fuel filter behind the seat. the rear tank only works on truck also. So should I start with fuel first and replace fuel filter then take a good pump out of one of my other trucks? ( I have 5 of these . My old man figures maybe pick up coil? I'm not sure where to begin. I sure do miss carbs right now!!!
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 05:38 PM
  #12  
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is there any codes? pull codes that is where any good mechanic will tell you to start looking
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 05:51 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by BENSON
So where do I start I just bought this truck last weekend. There was a new fuel filter behind the seat. the rear tank only works on truck also. So should I start with fuel first and replace fuel filter then take a good pump out of one of my other trucks? ( I have 5 of these . My old man figures maybe pick up coil? I'm not sure where to begin. I sure do miss carbs right now!!!
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:00 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by BENSON
So where do I start I just bought this truck last weekend. There was a new fuel filter behind the seat. the rear tank only works on truck also. So should I start with fuel first and replace fuel filter then take a good pump out of one of my other trucks? ( I have 5 of these . My old man figures maybe pick up coil? I'm not sure where to begin. I sure do miss carbs right now!!!
Nope. Wrong symptoms.

EFI is a smaller can of worm's than Carbed...trust me/ us!
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #15  
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invest 30 bucks in a code reader (since you have 5 f150's) and start there. Throwing random parts at an EFI engine rarely works. The days of raising the hood and glancing in the bay and saying..."there's the problem" are looooong gone my friend. LOL. A dual tank setup is liable to give you a severe headache if you're not sure where to start at least. Sounds like something dumb to me..it usually is.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by southernyankey1
invest 30 bucks in a code reader (since you have 5 f150's) and start there. Throwing random parts at an EFI engine rarely works. The days of raising the hood and glancing in the bay and saying..."there's the problem" are looooong gone my friend. LOL. A dual tank setup is liable to give you a severe headache if you're not sure where to start at least. Sounds like something dumb to me..it usually is.
...And we have a winner!!!

See link: http://www.handsontools.com/Equus-In...ol_p_5574.html
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #17  
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How many miles on engine? old 302s were notorious for the timing chains to jump when they get old. Also check the ingition control box. Its the silver square box that has about 3 connectors going to it. They have some sort of a retarding capability built inside of them. They are easy to replace, just plug it in. Could also be a vacuum leak. If its an injected motor they are known for leaking at the upper mainifold. If thats the case make sure to get the extra long torx socket to reach the bolt that no one seems to be able to find.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:40 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by rescueguy1969
How many miles on engine? old 302s were notorious for the timing chains to jump when they get old. Also check the ingition control box. Its the silver square box that has about 3 connectors going to it. They have some sort of a retarding capability built inside of them. They are easy to replace, just plug it in. Could also be a vacuum leak. If its an injected motor they are known for leaking at the upper mainifold. If thats the case make sure to get the extra long torx socket to reach the bolt that no one seems to be able to find.
Wouldn't even get what he's getting w/ a jumped timing chain.

I think you're referring to the TFI module (ICM). The ECU adds timing advance via the TFI. Doubt that's it either. Removing the SPOUT plug bypasses the ECU timing advance through the TFI. The TFI can be removed & bench checked at most auto part's stores.

Pull error code's.

Take Fuel pressure reading off the test port (Looks like a tire valve stem) on the fuel rail.

Remove your O2 sensor temporarily & see if you get RPM's back (Clogged Cat Converter)

Last edited by ymeski56; Sep 9, 2011 at 06:45 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Wouldn't even get what he's getting w/ a jumped timing chain.

I think you're referring to the TFI module (ICM). The ECU adds timing advance via the TFI. Doubt that's it either. Removing the SPOUT plug bypasses the ECU timing advance through the TFI. The TFI can be removed & bench checked at most auto part's stores.

Pull error code's.

Take Fuel pressure reading off the test port (Looks like a tire valve stem) on the fuel rail.

Remove your O2 sensor temporarily & see if you get RPM's back (Clogged Cat Converter)
Ill get check for codes tonight. and check the fuel pressue. what is it need to be around? and Ill try the 02 sensor idea as well but im pretty sure the cat has nothing left inside I got a 4" stack on it with no muffler and its got lots of volume coming out but ill give it a shot. thanks for the help
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 07:07 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56

Wouldn't even get what he's getting w/ a jumped timing chain.

I think you're referring to the TFI module (ICM). The ECU adds timing advance via the TFI. Doubt that's it either. Removing the SPOUT plug bypasses the ECU timing advance through the TFI. The TFI can be removed & bench checked at most auto part's stores.

Pull error code's.

Take Fuel pressure reading off the test port (Looks like a tire valve stem) on the fuel rail.

Remove your O2 sensor temporarily & see if you get RPM's back (Clogged Cat Converter)
What he said, but would like to add autozone (maybe others) can/ will pull codes for free if your budget is really tight.
Also, might help to know if it acts the same (3200 rpm cutout) under load and no load.
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