Is there a way to reprogram these things with OBD-I? Or do I have to buy a whole new ECU or have mine flashed and re-installed?

 

That I'm aware of, not really. but you can alter your timing curve by manually adjusting your base time set w/ the spout pug removed, then replacing it. My base time is set at 16BTDC, but I don't recommend that w/o some minor mods & prep.

However most w/ no active error codes & reasonably maintained will tolerate 12-14. these engines are intentionally detuned at the factory to allow less than adequate care & continue to function. Bumping the timing requires more diligence in that care, or you may get yourself into trouble.

 

Define more diligance please? I know the first thing I will have to do is fix my exhaust leak. I have no idea nor any way of knowing if I have a pre ignition ping due to said leak.

 

"Careful and persistent work or effort." or "Having all your ducks in a row."

An exhaust leak: You have a duck that's A.W.O.L.

See Link: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/about-...ng-bump-53159/

 

Ok I have a fuel delivery problem as well so there is another duck I need to get in a row. I THINK I have a bad fuel pressure regulator. I am getting 6 or 7 MPG in town and 12 on the highway at best. That would be all fine and good and all if I had a 7.5 liter but I don't. So Now that the regular tune up is finished, CEL cleared, and fuel filter changed I will be checking that. I do have a brass dist cap and rotor and 8mm plug wires. I'm going to change back to copper plugs, if I then get 14 in town and 18 hwy (or better) I will look into advancing the timing. I still have the factory coil do I need the larger coil to safely do this? Also my gap is the one of those few odd years that calls for .52-.56 Do I leave it like that if I am going to advance or do I stretch it some more?

 

Good possibility. No error code for that. Take a pressure read off the fuel rail. Check your F/P regulator.
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=41

Have you run error code scans?
Have you done a compression test? That will give you a good idea of what you should be expecting to see in performance & MPG.

The further base time advance is what helps get the better MPG, but you have some issues to clear before bumping it.

As mentioned in the link, the larger coil is to allow increased gap. The 302's stock gap was increased in the early 90's to .052-.056. So a larger coil will take you into the .060+'s.

Coils do loose potency w/ age/use. One reason gaps are given in ranges like .052 to .056. So anyway as mentioned, the timing bump only requires a stock healthy coil. But It is recommended the cap/rotor & wires be upgraded to insure long term dependability. A coil voltage increase is for gap increase if also desired.

Base time bumping & gap increasing are two different procedures, for two different reasons, however they compliment each other very well.

 

Not to thread jack but with a msd street fire coil and and msd wires and cap is gap increase needed in my HO? And is this gap increase at all noticeable? Ymeski.

 

What is a street fire coils output, 48K ?

Primary resistance ohm rating is?

 

Just a msd factory replacement coil.
I can't find any info.
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...reet_Fire.aspx

 

Coil Style E-core
Primary Resistance 0.440 ohms
Maximum Voltage 48,000 V
Turns Ratio 85:1 (I'd prefer accel or Pertronex w/125:1)
The C&R's are great, the Superconductor wires are my favs.

What is your stock gap? (thinkin .052-.056) I'd try .060 w/ Plat. & .062 w/ copper cores.
Should see a slight drivability & MPG increase.