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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 12:52 AM
  #21  
Just call me Sean's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean
If you want to try bleeding first, all you have to do is remove the clutch master cylinder cap and pump the pedal over and over, pressing down as fast as possible and letting it come back up as fast as possible. It takes a while, but if there aren't any leaks it will eventually come back up.
I hate writing crap twice.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 01:08 AM
  #22  
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nooo he said if you crack the bleeder the pedal will drop to the floor...
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 01:12 AM
  #23  
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oh ok, as in the bleeder screw, I assume down on the bell housing somewhere>?
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 04:23 AM
  #24  
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The bleeder screw is mounted on the slave. Here is what your slave will look like in the transmission...the top metal line running out of the bellhousing should be your bleeder if i recall correctly.

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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 11:01 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean
5 speed M5OD has the concentric slave, the throwout bearing is part of it. 4 speeds have the external slave. The 10" or 11" clutch will fit, use the 11". You won't have to change it again. If you want to try bleeding first, all you have to do is remove the clutch master cylinder cap and pump the pedal over and over, pressing down as fast as possible and letting it come back up as fast as possible. It takes a while, but if there aren't any leaks it will eventually come back up.
That's interesting, I didn't realize that worked. Does the same translate to the brake lines?
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 12:23 PM
  #26  
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Had the same thing happen on my 93 it was the slave. It is not too bad of a job to pull the tranny as long as you rent a tranny jack get all the torque specs and go slow. I agree with everyone pulling the tranny is a big job replace everything while you are in there. Using the bleed screw works great just have to be quick. Have some one in the cab pumping the clutch pedel then open and close the bleed screw fast. Then have them pump more and repeat process. Hope this helps
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Old Oct 30, 2009 | 12:08 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by paulstanely45
That's interesting, I didn't realize that worked. Does the same translate to the brake lines?
It doesn't work for the brakes. I don't know why it works so well for the clutch, but every clutch I've bled works this way. Also, every clutch that I've opened the bleeder screw on the pedal stuck to the floor. Sometimes you still have to crack the bleeder, but you still have to pump the pedal until it comes back.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 01:42 PM
  #28  
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so I tried to bleed the slave and I ended up snapping the bleeder valve off!! I know I know what an idiot! my question, is the pop metal really that weak or did I just crank on it too hard? I work our of state 5 days a week so i dont really have time to fix it i found a guy to put a new slave in and also through in a new clutch while he is in there. I hope this takes the free play out on my clutch. i have to puch the clutch to the floor then more to start it, and some times it wont engage to first so I have been forcing it into 3rd then to first.
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