I oticed on your page here in the modifications you did an egr delete. How do you do that? and the smog pump disconnection

 

The egr you can just get a blockoff plate for. You can take a thin piece of aluminum, and take your egr valve gasket and trace it onto it and cut it out, then put a gasket on each side of it and bolt it between the egr and the intake. I've also heard you can put a penny in the egr tube, but I haven't done that method.

I left all the egr components on, but disconnected the wiring to the egr sensor. If your egr system works, I would say leave it be and don't bypass it. But mine had issues I couldn't get solved so I just blocked it off to be done with it.

The smog delete is pretty easy. Just take the belt off, unbolt and disconnect the hoses from the pump, and unbolt the pump itself. Then remove all the hoses, and sensor wiring for the pump (everything related to the smog system). Plug the holes in the intake manifold with metal plugs from ace hardware or home depot. And then put a shorter belt back on the truck. My belt is an 800k6, but I also removed my ac compressor so your's won't be that short. There's how-to's on the forum. Try searching the 87-96 section for smog delete and egr delete. as keywords.

 

He has a bad TPS which would have shown when he did a code scan. That is if he had ever done one. My '92 did the same thing ran codes changed TPS with a new Motorcraft one and problem solved. The EGR valve will NOT cause a bucking shifting issue. I do not care if it does not work at all. It will NOT cause this issue.

The EGR is there for emissions and it also helps with gas mileage. If you delete it entirely your mileage will go downhill. The EGR opens and allows Emission gases to be recirculated into the upper intake plenum. You burn the emission gases and it also allows a leaner mixture thus using less fuel.

I wish they would make it mandatory for people to run code scans before they post. Would save a lot of trouble and it costs nothing but time.

 

Yea I agree the egr is not the source of this described problem. But he said he did have an egr code, so its something he will need to address eventually. My gas mileage didn't seem to change much without my egr. Even with my 33's I still average 15-16 mpg in town.

 

Because you have a lift and 33's. Drop it back down lose the 33's and get closer to 18 or 19 depending how you drive. I can agree 1-2 miles is not a lot but with gas at 4 bucks a gallon every mile can count.

 

what size tires are you running? i'm running a 4speed with 35's on 3.55 gears and i have a big hill going home from work and i have to go from 4th to 3rd gear trans wont go from 3rd to 2nd (np435). and my buddy drives the same way home, and his truck also has the i6 but with the factory 5 speed and he is running 33's on 3.55 gears. he has the same problems i'm having.

the i6 is no speed demon. and even worse on hills.

 

I had planned on deleting my AC as well because I don't need it anyway lol so i'll go get everthing for that soon

 

I'm currently running 32's but I'm goin to 33's soon

 

I don't know why everyone b!tches about the 4.9. Mine does just fine, with my trailer. I do have the 5 speed though.

 

I do not know either man. Not much difference between it and my 5.0. My truck will have to downshift sometimes on big hills also and I have an automatic. It does not bother me if it does. Not a big deal really.