Performance Mod Question
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,364
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Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD
Well...he said upper....and the upper has the two big hoses that run to the TB right? Thanks though. If junkyards don't work....LMC!!!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 58,557
Likes: 1,165
From: Long Beach Calimexifornia
It is an Auto Trans.
Changing the rear end might be somewhere in the future but i don't see it happening too soon. Maybe after some mods later on. The underdrive pulleys sound like some good easy HP gains though.
You'll probably want at least a 95 amp alternator to go w/ the underdrives, so you don't get voltage drop out at low rpms. Or go w/ a mild set of under drives, then not much of a HP bump, but less potentially problematic in other regards.
How do you reset the computer after the K&N drop in and should everyone have to do that? Sounds kinda annoying.
On MAPS, not a necessity after dropping in the K&N, but I would anyway & I do.
On MAF's definitely clear the Kept Adaptive Memory!
As for it being an auto with MAF should I go the CAI route or stick with the drop in?
Personally I wouldn't, unless I went w/ an setup that didn't get it's intake air from under the hood. If you notice...it ain't cold under there! Your stock setup however "is" a true cold air intake system right from the factory. I'd take the money you save by going w/ the drop in...buy yourself a nice hi-output/ low Ohm coil, brass Cap & rotor, & a nice set of high conduction/low resistance wires. Then as mentioned previously, bump your base timing 4-6 degrees.
The whole thing is a balancing act. I hate to oversimplify it, but you need to stay somewhere w/ in the parameters that the ECU allows. Assuming engine safety & reliability are a concern. Leaning it out too much can cost you a couple of degrees in additional timing advance that you could have had otherwise.
You need to understand that performance is secondary to the ECU''s prime objective, which is "maintain a 14.68:1 air to fuel ratio for emissions sake (or lack thereof). That's not too far from ping's doorstep to begin with.
Changing the rear end might be somewhere in the future but i don't see it happening too soon. Maybe after some mods later on. The underdrive pulleys sound like some good easy HP gains though.
You'll probably want at least a 95 amp alternator to go w/ the underdrives, so you don't get voltage drop out at low rpms. Or go w/ a mild set of under drives, then not much of a HP bump, but less potentially problematic in other regards.
How do you reset the computer after the K&N drop in and should everyone have to do that? Sounds kinda annoying.
On MAPS, not a necessity after dropping in the K&N, but I would anyway & I do.
On MAF's definitely clear the Kept Adaptive Memory!
As for it being an auto with MAF should I go the CAI route or stick with the drop in?
Personally I wouldn't, unless I went w/ an setup that didn't get it's intake air from under the hood. If you notice...it ain't cold under there! Your stock setup however "is" a true cold air intake system right from the factory. I'd take the money you save by going w/ the drop in...buy yourself a nice hi-output/ low Ohm coil, brass Cap & rotor, & a nice set of high conduction/low resistance wires. Then as mentioned previously, bump your base timing 4-6 degrees.
The whole thing is a balancing act. I hate to oversimplify it, but you need to stay somewhere w/ in the parameters that the ECU allows. Assuming engine safety & reliability are a concern. Leaning it out too much can cost you a couple of degrees in additional timing advance that you could have had otherwise.
You need to understand that performance is secondary to the ECU''s prime objective, which is "maintain a 14.68:1 air to fuel ratio for emissions sake (or lack thereof). That's not too far from ping's doorstep to begin with.
Last edited by ymeski56; Jul 15, 2011 at 11:53 PM.
Dodge+Ford = always ready
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 112
From: Montana
sorry im not good with names of somethings lol. i just say what it is or does. but yea the air inlet pipe that goes into the air box before it goes through the filter and into the hose to the throttle body.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 102
Originally Posted by ymeski56
It is an Auto Trans.
Changing the rear end might be somewhere in the future but i don't see it happening too soon. Maybe after some mods later on. The underdrive pulleys sound like some good easy HP gains though.
You'll probably want at least a 95 amp alternator to go w/ the underdrives, so you don't get voltage drop out at low rpms. Or go w/ a mild set of under drives, then not much of a HP bump, but less potentially problematic in other regards.
How do you reset the computer after the K&N drop in and should everyone have to do that? Sounds kinda annoying.
On MAPS, not a necessity after dropping in the K&N, but I would anyway & I do.
On MAF's definitely clear the Kept Adaptive Memory!
As for it being an auto with MAF should I go the CAI route or stick with the drop in?
Personally I wouldn't, unless I went w/ an setup that didn't get it's intake air from under the hood. If you notice...it ain't cold under there! Your stock setup however "is" a true cold air intake system right from the factory. I'd take the money you save by going w/ the drop in...buy yourself a nice hi-output/ low Ohm coil, brass Cap & rotor, & a nice set of high conduction/low resistance wires. Then as mentioned previously, bump your base timing 4-6 degrees.
The whole thing is a balancing act. I hate to oversimplify it, but you need to stay somewhere w/ in the parameters that the ECU allows. Assuming engine safety & reliability are a concern. Leaning it out too much can cost you a couple of degrees in additional timing advance that you could have had otherwise.
You need to understand that performance is secondary to the ECU''s prime objective, which is "maintain a 14.68:1 air to fuel ratio for emissions sake (or lack thereof). That's not too far from ping's doorstep to begin with.
Changing the rear end might be somewhere in the future but i don't see it happening too soon. Maybe after some mods later on. The underdrive pulleys sound like some good easy HP gains though.
You'll probably want at least a 95 amp alternator to go w/ the underdrives, so you don't get voltage drop out at low rpms. Or go w/ a mild set of under drives, then not much of a HP bump, but less potentially problematic in other regards.
How do you reset the computer after the K&N drop in and should everyone have to do that? Sounds kinda annoying.
On MAPS, not a necessity after dropping in the K&N, but I would anyway & I do.
On MAF's definitely clear the Kept Adaptive Memory!
As for it being an auto with MAF should I go the CAI route or stick with the drop in?
Personally I wouldn't, unless I went w/ an setup that didn't get it's intake air from under the hood. If you notice...it ain't cold under there! Your stock setup however "is" a true cold air intake system right from the factory. I'd take the money you save by going w/ the drop in...buy yourself a nice hi-output/ low Ohm coil, brass Cap & rotor, & a nice set of high conduction/low resistance wires. Then as mentioned previously, bump your base timing 4-6 degrees.
The whole thing is a balancing act. I hate to oversimplify it, but you need to stay somewhere w/ in the parameters that the ECU allows. Assuming engine safety & reliability are a concern. Leaning it out too much can cost you a couple of degrees in additional timing advance that you could have had otherwise.
You need to understand that performance is secondary to the ECU''s prime objective, which is "maintain a 14.68:1 air to fuel ratio for emissions sake (or lack thereof). That's not too far from ping's doorstep to begin with.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 102
Originally Posted by f150cam
sorry im not good with names of somethings lol. i just say what it is or does. but yea the air inlet pipe that goes into the air box before it goes through the filter and into the hose to the throttle body.
Junkyards. LMC. Or...make one?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
It is an Auto Trans.
Changing the rear end might be somewhere in the future but i don't see it happening too soon. Maybe after some mods later on. The underdrive pulleys sound like some good easy HP gains though.
You'll probably want at least a 95 amp alternator to go w/ the underdrives, so you don't get voltage drop out at low rpms. Or go w/ a mild set of under drives, then not much of a HP bump, but less potentially problematic in other regards.
How do you reset the computer after the K&N drop in and should everyone have to do that? Sounds kinda annoying.
On MAPS, not a necessity after dropping in the K&N, but I would anyway & I do.
On MAF's definitely clear the Kept Adaptive Memory!
As for it being an auto with MAF should I go the CAI route or stick with the drop in?
Personally I wouldn't, unless I went w/ an setup that didn't get it's intake air from under the hood. If you notice...it ain't cold under there! Your stock setup however "is" a true cold air intake system right from the factory. I'd take the money you save by going w/ the drop in...buy yourself a nice hi-output/ low Ohm coil, brass Cap & rotor, & a nice set of high conduction/low resistance wires. Then as mentioned previously, bump your base timing 4-6 degrees.
The whole thing is a balancing act. I hate to oversimplify it, but you need to stay somewhere w/ in the parameters that the ECU allows. Assuming engine safety & reliability are a concern. Leaning it out too much can cost you a couple of degrees in additional timing advance that you could have had otherwise.
You need to understand that performance is secondary to the ECU''s prime objective, which is "maintain a 14.68:1 air to fuel ratio for emissions sake (or lack thereof). That's not too far from ping's doorstep to begin with.
Changing the rear end might be somewhere in the future but i don't see it happening too soon. Maybe after some mods later on. The underdrive pulleys sound like some good easy HP gains though.
You'll probably want at least a 95 amp alternator to go w/ the underdrives, so you don't get voltage drop out at low rpms. Or go w/ a mild set of under drives, then not much of a HP bump, but less potentially problematic in other regards.
How do you reset the computer after the K&N drop in and should everyone have to do that? Sounds kinda annoying.
On MAPS, not a necessity after dropping in the K&N, but I would anyway & I do.
On MAF's definitely clear the Kept Adaptive Memory!
As for it being an auto with MAF should I go the CAI route or stick with the drop in?
Personally I wouldn't, unless I went w/ an setup that didn't get it's intake air from under the hood. If you notice...it ain't cold under there! Your stock setup however "is" a true cold air intake system right from the factory. I'd take the money you save by going w/ the drop in...buy yourself a nice hi-output/ low Ohm coil, brass Cap & rotor, & a nice set of high conduction/low resistance wires. Then as mentioned previously, bump your base timing 4-6 degrees.
The whole thing is a balancing act. I hate to oversimplify it, but you need to stay somewhere w/ in the parameters that the ECU allows. Assuming engine safety & reliability are a concern. Leaning it out too much can cost you a couple of degrees in additional timing advance that you could have had otherwise.
You need to understand that performance is secondary to the ECU''s prime objective, which is "maintain a 14.68:1 air to fuel ratio for emissions sake (or lack thereof). That's not too far from ping's doorstep to begin with.
Good reply. Thanks.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 58,557
Likes: 1,165
From: Long Beach Calimexifornia
You guy's talking about this little goody, that increases flow to the airbox, & can be used in place of the one that get's it's air through a small hole in the grill?
Last edited by ymeski56; Jul 19, 2011 at 12:42 AM.