Me again
Ok, I think that I tested the wrong thing. Now I can't find the CSS at all. I have a print out from a Ford dealership of where it is supposed to be but I can't see it or feel it. Do I need to remove the dash? I have already removed a panel just under the steering column doesn't help though.
Attached are a couple of photos of the switch that has to do with the cruise control that I was talking about earlier.
If anyone spots the CSS please let me know.
Thanks again guys.
J
Attached are a couple of photos of the switch that has to do with the cruise control that I was talking about earlier.
If anyone spots the CSS please let me know.
Thanks again guys.
J
Not having seen a manual setup - hard to tell from the pics.
It would seem logical that the cruise control cutout would have some kind of connection to both the brake and clutch pedals - after all, if you hit either one, you would want the cruise to cut out.
Suggest you should see whatever you need to get at from looking up under - no need to remove major dash parts - perhaps just the lower access panels under the steering wheel column.
That is one goober looking setup - can't believe FoMoCo would release something like that.
If I understand things correctly - the green wire connector thingie is what you shorted across for your testing? IIRC (been a long time since I looked up under there), the cruise control switch was more of a vacuum dump valve - has vacuum lines running to it????
This is an unusual problem - keep after it and keep us posted - we'll figure it out eventually. Every problem has a solution.
Have you had a chance to jumper the solenoid? If all else fails, this would at least get you rolling again.
It would seem logical that the cruise control cutout would have some kind of connection to both the brake and clutch pedals - after all, if you hit either one, you would want the cruise to cut out.
Suggest you should see whatever you need to get at from looking up under - no need to remove major dash parts - perhaps just the lower access panels under the steering wheel column.
That is one goober looking setup - can't believe FoMoCo would release something like that.
If I understand things correctly - the green wire connector thingie is what you shorted across for your testing? IIRC (been a long time since I looked up under there), the cruise control switch was more of a vacuum dump valve - has vacuum lines running to it????
This is an unusual problem - keep after it and keep us posted - we'll figure it out eventually. Every problem has a solution.
Have you had a chance to jumper the solenoid? If all else fails, this would at least get you rolling again.
Just going to throw my two cents here. I just got done replacing my clutch assymbly from the internal slave cylinder to the master cylinder. The swich that engages when the clutch is depressed is not where you think it should be. It is weird how all of the arms flare out and rods are connected and still does its job. The master cylinder comes into the firewall to the RIGHT of the steering column (just fight of the brake pedal but before the accelerator) and UP. You will see a black plastic peice of sorts with a wire connection comming from it. The connector is about 2" long and connected to the pushrod of the master cylinder. There is a little lip on the connecter that keeps it entact, but once is un-clipped, the switch can come right off. Check this switch and see if it is damaged inside where the spring and points connect. It sounds as though by you having to slam the clutch down hard before it connects, it is something inside that is damaged.
Remember, this switch is NOT DIRECTLY connected to the clutch pedal....per se as you would follow the pedal....per se. I hope this helps. I am sure someone else knows what I am talking about, because your picture doesn't show the switch that was first mentioned.
Remember, this switch is NOT DIRECTLY connected to the clutch pedal....per se as you would follow the pedal....per se. I hope this helps. I am sure someone else knows what I am talking about, because your picture doesn't show the switch that was first mentioned.
Is this the CSS or something different entirely? There is something similar to what you described attached to the break pedal that one of the wires, the green one in the picture, from the cruise control switch set up leads to.
Thanks, any suggestions are helpful.
J
Thanks, any suggestions are helpful.
J
That is probably the brake light switch. It turns on the brake lights when you press the brake pedal. The wire going to the cruise control from there shuts the cruise off when you press the brake pedal.
I can't see much in your pictures. There is no picture of the clutch master cylinder pushrod. You have a picture of the brake master cylinder pushrod. To the right of the brake pushrod is the clutch pushrod. The switch would be attached there on some models. If it's not there then it is on a bracket high up near the clutch pedal. I don't see it in your pictures so I'm thinking it's on the clutch pushrod. In case I just can't see it here is a picture of mine. The pen is pointing to the switch and the tab is pushed by the pedal.

Above the switch in the picture with the blue wire running to it is the brake light switch. It's not above the clutch switch in the truck, just the picture.

Above the switch in the picture with the blue wire running to it is the brake light switch. It's not above the clutch switch in the truck, just the picture.
Going back to the origianal concern about the clutch switch. The pics below should give you an idea what to look for (hopefully you can open them). As you can see, the pushrod comes in to the right of the steering column and not under the clutch pedal as expected. Disconnect the wiring and remove the switch. If this is damaged inside, then pressing the clutch won't engage the engine, i.e. it wont start.




