From what you have described, it sounds like the one on older models because it has a tab that the ball and chain is hooked to that releases when the clutch is depressed. It really doesn't look like it is rigged up considering how it is mounted to the truck, I could be wrong though.
Thanks again for all you help. Looks like it's junkyard time!
J

 

It does look like something from a household lighting system, but the way it is mounted and hooks up just doesn't seem so. I've tried to look it up online at lowe's and homedepot and I haven't seen anything like it.
I'll let you guys know what up as soon as I find out.
Thanks again guys,
Jess

 

The only reason I would think it's been repaired with something laying in the garage, is that the truck runs on 12V DC and most of your sensors run at 5V DC through the ECM. Nothing from the factory should be rated 125V AC - that's household current.

I'm just guessing though - it's hard to tell what you've got without being there to see it. I agree with you though - a trip to the salvage yard will give you some good info to compare with, and hopefully a working part to put in your truck.

 

Just wanted to let you guys know, the switch that has had me baffled is for the cruise control, which this truck has. Now that I know where my clutch start switch is I'm going to check it now. I'll be posting a pic of this switch as soon as I can.
Thanks again,
J

 

Ok, so I've check the clutch start switch and nothing different. All the lights come on, the buzzing sound, everything like it should be, but the engine won't crank a bit.

 

We did without such interlocks for decades I would be tempted to by pass the whole thing, if it isn't too much trouble.

 

I am tempted as well but everything that I have read says that you'll burn through starters a lot faster if you do by pass it. I don't have kids or a garage for that matter, so it's not a real concern but, I don't want to really screw things up and have to junk my means of transportation.

 

Hmm, are you getting 12V to the switch itself?
If you shorted the switch connector out and nothing changed - the switch is out of the picture now.
Have you tried applying 12V directly to the starter solenoid coil? Be careful that the truck is secured when you try this.

Not sure where the statement about burning the starter up comes from - unless the starter is engaged with the truck in gear - an old trick to limp out of the way if the engine quits and won't restart.

 

No I haven't applied 12V to the starter solenoid coil. The starter solenoid isn't even a year old, could it have gone bad that quickly? By secure, do you mean, putting blocks behind the tires and making sure the parking brake is applied? What will happen if I try this and how do I go about applying 12V to the coil? From the battery?
When I tested the CSS I use a wire, do I need to cut the connectors off and twist the wires together?
Sorry for all of the questions guys, I don't know much about electrical stuff.
Thanks again,
J

 

It's possible for the solenoid to go bad within a short period - particularly if you've used the bargain line like Wells. Many electric components have a bathtub like curve for longevity - higher failure rates shortly after installation and with extreme age or service - but not many failures in between. My experience with the bargain-brand lines is that the early failure rates are pretty high - the stuff is good only if you're looking to unload the vehicle shortly, IMO.

Just want things to be safe when you try things outside of the ordinary. The concern would be that if the starter would take off - you don't want the truck to lurch, or heaven forbid - start up and commence to run through the garage wall. Suggest ensuring that the tranny is in neutral with the parking brake set should be sufficient.

As far as testing the clutch switch - a piece of wire stripped on both ends and rammed down into each side of the connector should be sufficient - just want to make sure that good contact is made to complete the circuit across the connector. No need to cut anything.

As far as testing the solenoid - I would just use the same piece of wire, if it's long enough - and touch between the solenoid's big lug coming off the battery across to the solenoid's smaller coil terminal lug. Shouldn't be a problem with backfeeding the power, so it's probably not necessary to remove the solenoid coil wire (the smaller wire) if clear contact can be made with this jumper.

By checking for 12V at the clutch switch connector - one leg should be hot - and trying the 12V straight to the solenoid - looking to divide-and-conquer the problem in order to more quickly figure out where the starter circuit is not being made.

Good luck - and keep us posted. :-)