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Key accessory position?

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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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Default Key accessory position?

Hey there, got a question for somebody on my '89 F150. Does it/is it supposed too have an accessory position I can turn the key to for like playing the radio and such when it's not running? I've replaced the ign. switch and it has the accessory position in it but I can't turn the key counter clockwise to access it. Is something wrong (with the lock cylinder maybe) or does it just not have that? Oh, I've been told that the steering column was replaced by the PO but am not sure if that would make any difference. Thanks in advance
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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Yes, turn backwards for accessory.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Just call me Sean
Yes, turn backwards for accessory.
That's what I thought but it won't go so I guess it's either jammed or broke. OK, now I know for sure. I'll put it on the list. Thanks
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Hey Sean, (Hope it's OK to call you that.) I just noticed a little hole on the bottom of the steering column with nothing in it. Would that be where a release button of some sort is supposed to be maybe? One you push so the key will turn into the accessory position?
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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Some have a lock button, but it's to allow you to turn the key far enough back to remove the key. Not for unlocking accessory, it's unlocked.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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Just turn the key counter clockwise as fur back as it goes and that is the acc. position.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 09:53 PM
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Yeah it won't turn back at all so I guess there is something wrong. Oh well
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:18 PM
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Default I had the same problem with my 1990 ford f150-fixed now!

I had the same problem you have and really didn't know if I had an acc, position either. I could play the radio in the forward position, but found out that all the electronics , fuel pump ,and starting components come on which will kill the battery sooner and is bad on the fuel pumps-both of mine. the key when turned seemed hard to twist and crunk at fatherest twist of the key itself. There's an ignition switch at the top of the steering column that can slip or need replacing when installing. So to fix my problem I bought a new cylinder lock key switch and ignition switch with a mechanics changing it for me fixed me right up. if any work had been done on the actuator in the steering column previously, that might need to be checked to see if it is not on the right tooth of cylinder lock-actuator linkage assembly. Mine works fine now. I would check the ignition switch first--they are bad to slip or pop loose from the 2 screws that hold it on the top of the column next to the dash.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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Default The hole under key switch is to change key lock cylinder

If this hole is under straight under the key switch it's probably is the place you put an awl or 1/8" punch or drill bit to push up into the column while turning in key in the "on" position you can take the old key switch out and put a new keyswitch back. IF YOU LOOK AT A NEW KEYSWITCH IT'LL HAVE A SPRING LOADED PLUNGER ON ITS SIDE, THATS WHAT YOU WILL BE PUSHING ON FOR LOCK REMOVAL, HAD TO CHANGE MINE TOO.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by roundbaby
I had the same problem you have and really didn't know if I had an acc, position either. I could play the radio in the forward position, but found out that all the electronics , fuel pump ,and starting components come on which will kill the battery sooner and is bad on the fuel pumps-both of mine. the key when turned seemed hard to twist and crunk at fatherest twist of the key itself. There's an ignition switch at the top of the steering column that can slip or need replacing when installing. So to fix my problem I bought a new cylinder lock key switch and ignition switch with a mechanics changing it for me fixed me right up. if any work had been done on the actuator in the steering column previously, that might need to be checked to see if it is not on the right tooth of cylinder lock-actuator linkage assembly. Mine works fine now. I would check the ignition switch first--they are bad to slip or pop loose from the 2 screws that hold it on the top of the column next to the dash.

If this hole is under straight under the key switch it's probably is the place you put an awl or 1/8" punch or drill bit to push up into the column while turning in key in the "on" position you can take the old key switch out and put a new keyswitch back. IF YOU LOOK AT A NEW KEYSWITCH IT'LL HAVE A SPRING LOADED PLUNGER ON ITS SIDE, THATS WHAT YOU WILL BE PUSHING ON FOR LOCK REMOVAL, HAD TO CHANGE MINE TOO.
Hey thanks roundbaby, I'll look into all of that. My key turns nice and I've adjusted the ign. switch before because it wouldn't start but who knows. Maybe I'll pull the switch off and try turning it to the acc. position without it. See if that helps. Or maybe pull the lock cylinder out and see if it works that way. I dunno, nice to hear that somebody else had the same problem and solved it though. Thanks
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