So the other day I went to get in my 1989 f-150 with a 5.0 and it just kept turning over but wouldn't start. I found out I was not getting spark at the plugs or coil. I replaced the coil and still had no spark. I then replaced the ignition module and still had no spark. I followed the wiring yesterday and everything looked and tested fine. What I believe is the power wire to the coil from the key ignition got power with the key in off position but did not get power with the key in on position. Im not sure if that is how its supposed to be or not.

So I know it could be the pickup in the distributor but before I spend the money on a new distributor I thought I would see if there is anything else I should check before I do that.

Thanks for any help

 

Do the PIP sensor test in the Hayne's book. And check for codes. That should tell you something before you spend the money.

 

Most likely the PIP. Do the test mentioned. I avoided it myself 'cause I didn't really want to pull a distributor but - that's what it was (that's what everybody said it would be) and once I got around to starting it really didn't take very long. Just a tip - turn your motor till the rotor points to #1. Mark exactly where the distributor housing is lined up with (I put a piece of masking tape on the rad hose, put a stick across the cap and made a mark on the tape and the intake). Use a sharpie marker to mark the rotor position on the lower cap (I put a little line on each side of the rotor end). Then as you lift the distributor, the rotor will turn clockwise a bit because of the angle cut gears on the shaft. Mark where it points to then as well. Makes it a whole lot easier to reinstall.
You can change the pip sensor which is much cheaper, but a bit of a pain getting the distributor apart (and back together). The ignition system is a weak link, so with what you've already done a new distributor wouldn't be a horribly bad investment even if it's not the current problem.

 

So I have been running tests with my test light and volt reader and it was saying it had to be either the module or the PIP so I went and bought a whole new distributor and put it in and it's still not sending the signal to the coil and so it will still not start.

Is the PIP in the new distributor bad or is there something else I should look at?

 

If it is a re-manufactured distributor, it could be bad. I read that some re-man. distributors do not always get the PIP sensor replaced. If its new, then I would think it's not the PIP. Run the tests again with the new one and see if anything is different. And check codes to see if anything has changed.

 

X2. Is the distributor made by cardone? qdeezie told me they are poor quality and have nearly a 100% failure rate. He suggested I get a Richporter distributor and I did. It looks to be of great quality, feels better than my original. They also look great

 

Codes are only saying 52 which is the power steering pressure switch. I have ran the tests on the ignition system and it is pointing to either the module or PIP. I am gonna try to realign the distributor again to make sure it's not missing but I would think I would still be able to get spark.
The distributor is a new dura last gold distributor

 

Hey sorry we haven't been able to spend much time helping you out with this - personally I've been crazy busy with work.
I'll go over what I did with my 96 and you can see if anything helps.
I had an intermittent no spark problem which became a full time no spark.
I had spare parts (known to be working) from other trucks so the first thing I did was swap out the ignition module - no help. Then I swapped the coil - nothing. Which sounded a lot like the PIP. To test it I got an LED light from the dollar store with wires on it. With the key Off I ran that from the battery positive to the wire coming out of the coil (the one closest to the passenger side). With the key still off I cranked the motor from the solenoid. The PIP grounding as if it was making the coil fire should have made that light flash, but it didn't so I then knew the PIP was faulty. It has to be an LED light.
You've already changed all three pieces, so let's assume they're good and go back over other things. You said you have power with the key off but not when it's on. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I think that's back-asswards. As I understand it, with the key in the start or on position you should have power to the coil. Current builds in the coil and when the distributor causes the PIP to break the circuit the coil fires out the top, through the coil high tension lead to the distributor rotor and through whichever wire the rotor is pointing at to the spark plug.
I'm going back now to no power at the coil with the key on - how could this happen ? Has somebody been fooling around with any wires under the dash ? maybe around the ignition switch on the column (big white thing with a bunch of wires - about halfway down the column - it activates everything, a rod from the key moves it) ? New stereo ? New anything electrical ?
I would try putting a hot wire to the driver's side wire at the coil and see what happens, but that's me and I don't want to recommend it as such 'cause I don't know if it will wreck any of your new parts - it is called a hot wire for a reason.
Anyway gotta go again here, but there's some things to look at anyway.

 

I agree with Chris 1, the whole switch thing sounds fishy. I would double check the wiring all the way from the plug back to the switch to make sure everything is in it's right place. I was working on a friends truck a few times with a no fire issue and after replacing nearly all the possible components, we found that one of the coil wires ( I think the one to the PCM) was in the wrong place. Generally you are looking at the plugs, distributor, ICM, coil, PCM, and the ignition switch. One of those is the problem. We went to Auto Zone and had the ICM retested and bought another to make sure it was not the problem. Then returned it.

How are you determining you have no fire? We used one of those inline testers. We also used it from coil to distributor. I've read some people found there distributor was one wire off of the original set up done by previous owners for some reason which gave them spark but at the wrong time.

 

I use a spark plug (there's a tester that works better), I plug it into the wire and use a jumper cable to ground it. Much better way of checking for spark than trying to get the spark to jump the gap to the engine. I would do that right at the coil wire, and also check that the coil wire has continuity (ohmeter).
But reviewing the posts, Yes you definitely have to have power to the coil at start and run positions for the coil to do anything. Doesn't make sense otherwise.