Finally did the ODB-1 Test correctly I think, these are the codes I got. Where do I start? The main problem I am faced with is it smells like gas, and hesitates/stalls in drive or reverse if i don't feather the pedal, Neutral and Park it runs fine.

KOEO


565 (O) Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids

332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE

637 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was high or open - Transmissions


KOER


116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT

311 (R) AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Air Injection

213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted - Ignition Systems

332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently - EVR or PFE

632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test

 

mine did the same thing til i replaced the EGR vac solenoid. i'd start there. then your spout connector and wires. your o2 sensor and coolant sensor. then check your purge canister. if broke or missing stuff like that. was your truck up to operating temp?

 

My coolant sensor went bad giving me lots of codes, gas smell and a beeyotch to start when hot.

 

once you start gettin some this stuff fixed, you'll notice a major difference

 

No the truck was cold.

I forgot to add that the previous owner ran str8 pipes and some solenoid/purge valve line is just hanging in the back on the motor, looks like they cut the line

Is it supposed to go to the egr?

Thanks

 

I pulled the egr valve it was rusted closed. I put some penetrating oil on it and freed it up. But the damn line broke when i was unscrewing the nut, i just cant get a break geez. it also looks like the spout that is closest to the distributor has an exposed wire so i might have corrosion in the wires, gotta trace and test tomorrow.

 

damn man, you sound like me...somethin is always broke...fix one thing, get excited, only to find somethin else ****ed off.

 

i feel ya guys. its always alot of little fixes. but it'll all be worth it in the end. having a messed up egr valve is a big issue. im not sure if the yellow vac hose goes to the egr vavle or not. mine is a light green. the engine HAS to be at normal op temp. otherwise you'll get some false codes. i had that happen. i forgot to warm it up first lol. and you may want to replace your egr valve. there is a diaphram on the inside that can get pin holes in them and still not work. my advice is to hit up the JY and check some trucks out.

 

mines green too. but that dont really mean much, if someone has messed with the vac lines on the truck. im sure someone has a diagram on here thatll help make sure yours are right going to the egr.

 

they should be in the haynes manual too