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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 06:48 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD
You said you had a 351 didn't you? Your gap is different than mine anyway, im about to go drive my truck in a little. I'll yank out the Haynes manual and see what it says.
How far you can throw it?
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 06:54 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by 1989-FORD-F150

Mines on the hood and it says .052-.056 I'm pretty sure mine at at .054 right now
I might have to check for that again, I have the vacuum hose diagram under the hood. I don't remember seeing the spark plug info near it though...
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 06:55 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56

How far you can throw it?
I already used one of the covers as a makeshift funnel shortly after I first bought the truck and needed to add some tranny fluid.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 06:58 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD
Its bumped now. But im starting to think I may have a problem with my alternator or something. It seems like anything and everything electrical draws way too much power when I use it. Like the load is almost too much.
Either a poor POS or Negative connection, or a diode(s) in the Alternator are pooching.

At warm Idle, take a voltage reading from the Alternator Positive post to ground.

Do you know what your warm idle RPM is?

Should be 650-675 RPM for a 302 w/ A/T.

A midge more for a M/T.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD
I might have to check for that again, I have the vacuum hose diagram under the hood. I don't remember seeing the spark plug info near it though...
Mine is on the air cleaner housing cover.

Last edited by ymeski56; Aug 14, 2011 at 07:08 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 07:03 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56

Either a poor POS or Negative connection, or a diode(s) in the Alternator are pooching.

At warm Idle, take a voltage reading from the Alternator Positive post to ground.

Do you know what your warm idle RPM is?

Should be 650-675 RPM for a 302 w/ A/T.

A midge more for a M/T.
Maybe. Not sure about the rpm. No tach and I don't know how else to figure it out. About to go out to my truck. I can let it warm up and check the voltage.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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My stock gap is .042-.046 , for my 87' 302. I did the upgrade & originally settled at .060. Then I went to a modified side gap copper core, gapped to .054. Keep in mind, my upgrade included a 60K volt, low Ohm coil.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 07:43 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
My stock gap is .042-.046 , for my 87' 302. I did the upgrade & originally settled at .060. Then I went to a modified side gap copper core, gapped to .054. Keep in mind, my upgrade included a 60K volt, low Ohm coil.
I followed the link posted (I think you posted it) when I first started this thread and used the part number for the MSD ignition coil the guy used, which was a 44,000 volt coil.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Forge-World-FORD
I followed the link posted (I think you posted it) when I first started this thread and used the part number for the MSD ignition coil the guy used, which was a 44,000 volt coil.
That's fine. I just wanted a bit more "bang"!

Last edited by ymeski56; Aug 14, 2011 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 08:19 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by ymeski56

That's fine. I just wanted a bit more "bang"!
wasn't sure how much "bang" my engine could handle after almost 260k miles. Test drove, feels way better. I wasn't sure about where you said on the alternator to hook the multimeter, I just saw to connectors/plugs.

So I put one on the pos terminal and one on a ground. It read 14 volts at a warm idle. Then just for SnG's I turned my headlights on and checked again.

It read 12.8, and steadily dropped from there to around 12.6-12.5 before I turned my lights off. After which it quickly rose back to 14.
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