Would one of those 20 dollar ebay electrical eliminators for the egr help my mileage any? I'm constantly looking for any edge in mpg's I can find and this came to mind. Here's what my emissions system is looking like right now...

- egr block off plate (hoses and plugs still in place)

-smog pump has been belt deleted and lines plugged

-no cats

Currently I have no check engine light, but do have codes for the smog pump and egr if I run a scan. Would the egr eliminator remove the egr code, and if so, would this change any computer controlled parameters to help gas mileage?

 

my egr is disconnected and im still getting 15 mpg average. all i did was disconnect the vacuum line to it and plug it. i asked one of those sellere on ebay but they never answered. seems that there needed if your check engine lite comes on, which mine never has.

 

My vacuum line isn't connected to the egr, but I'm not sure where the hose is, so I don't know if its plugged. But I'm assuming it is since my idle is fine.

 

From what I understand, the EGR valve helps cut down emissions and improve gas mileage, please do correct me if I am wrong though. Aside from richening the mixture without adding more gas, it helps to burn up any unused gas in the exhaust.

I am curious as to how you removed the smog pump though, did you just find a smaller serpentine belt? If so, what measurment? I'd like to remove it from my system.

 

Also helps cool the combustion chambers under load.

 

I know its better to have one, but I dont feel like spending the money to keep it functional. It was blocked off when I got it so I dont want to open the door to nasty problems that might be lurking if I open it back up. I just want to know if the truck will still work in closed loop without the eliminator. Currently there is a code but no light.

And on the smog pump, I was mistaken. I didn't bypass it by belt, the hoses coming in and out of the pump have been removed. When I redid my exhaust I removed the bung on the exhaust piping, and I used a metal plug to seal the fitting on the intake manifold. The pump does not put much drag at all on the motor when the hoses are not connected so I haven't shortened the belt to completely bypass it yet.

 

Its not really a lot of money, and since you are making the argument of gas mileage, Id get the system working. It should only take 100 bucks at a junk yard.

If you are insistent on it though, you can get all the block off plates and faux sensors you need here :

http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/?p=9

 

I know I can get the stuff, I already have it blocked off and I found the sensor eliminator, I just want to know if that eliminator would change anything. I guess the better question would be is there a way to tell whether the truck is in open or closed loop?

 

I would assume that as long as the computer knows the engine is warm then it would be in closed loop. Even without the EGR the computer is supposed to run at optimal A/F ratio for best mileage. Since the light isn't on it's not so horrible a problem that the computer feels you should know always, when the light stays on the problem is more serious.

You can get rid of the smog codes by hooking the solenoids back up but plugging the out vacuum port. I don't know how you could stop the EGR codes without hooking it back up but I think those simulators are mostly for OBDII.

 

Sounds like I'll have to check that smog pump stuff out. And I agree, I dont think the codes are serious either but I just wanted someone to agree with me so I feel better haha