EGR code 33?
I haven't opened the hood all day. I did start it, to find that the sea foam didn't do any magic tricks last night, and filled the tank with gas.
And since I get the joy of going to work on a Sunday afternoon here in a little while, I can safely say that I won't be looking under the hood today.
If, as you say, I could solve both issues (no fuel to cyl 3 and the code 33) I would be able to leave the hood closed for a good long time and feel pretty good about it!
And since I get the joy of going to work on a Sunday afternoon here in a little while, I can safely say that I won't be looking under the hood today.
If, as you say, I could solve both issues (no fuel to cyl 3 and the code 33) I would be able to leave the hood closed for a good long time and feel pretty good about it!
agree that #33 was mentioned but #3 cylinder more likely self induced. anyway be right back with what kicked our asses for 20 pages of posts
falt codes consist of three types of codes because I type two fingers style I'm skipping the entree going straight to desert or you might end up late for work Type #3.IT records & retains in memory a record of faults that occured in the past but are no longer present. The ECC keeps these faults in memory for a specific period of time(40 warmup cycles for most fault codes & 80 for others! Regardless weather the original cause no longer exists. a warm up cycle consists of #1. a 40F degree rise from temp truck originally started #2 when the engine temp reaches at least 160 F. stay tuned....
Doesn't that consist of pulling the negative battery cable for 20 minutes or so, then driving for 10-15 minutes with periods of steady rpm, etc.?
Heck - I'm probably doing it wrong and making my life more miserable than it needs to be!
Heck - I'm probably doing it wrong and making my life more miserable than it needs to be!
You can't say God doesn't have a sense of humor! just takes a little getting used to, like the long pauses for the punchlines. He gives us "Freewill" and a full tank of gas. So far ,all good! But then who does he toss the keys to? Your own worst enemy! Whats up with that? Imagine what he must be like with a bottle of Jack past half mast. Like all the **** he stirred up on his last 7 day binder! Probably the Indian in him or maybe a traumatic childhood. You think you got problems, how would you like to be his Therapist! While he's who knows where raising hell in a hummer, what do we get ? Freewill, freeways..... and a Ford! Doesn't seem fair. Maybe if enough people complain, but if that's what you decide to do, don't bring my name up. A day off, a full tank and a cheap date and I'm set. Yea, a little more to it,regarding anchoring the idle. In comparison to your method: "Pulling your HAIR out for 20 minutes or so,then driving 10-15 minutes with periods of steady mumbling of negativity." My girlfriend said (stylist) that as long as the follicle remained, alot of it should grow back fairly soon. Also, that patchy premature gray is very trendy in a geriatric chemotherapeutic kinda way and if you came in and wanted it duplicated it would cost you a C-note easy.
So....
Are you telling me that I should clear the KAM?
Is that gonna make the cylinder #3 injector start working?
Clear the code 33?
Do you have any special 'relearning' procedures to try?
Or....
Should I do this after getting injector #3 back in order?
Are you telling me that I should clear the KAM?
Is that gonna make the cylinder #3 injector start working?
Clear the code 33?
Do you have any special 'relearning' procedures to try?
Or....
Should I do this after getting injector #3 back in order?
There is no special magic trick to clear the computer or relearn the strategy. Unhooking the battery will clear the codes and the computer learns how it will run by the way you drive. Your truck will run differently than the next guys truck even if it's identical to yours because of the way you both drive differently. I drive mine like a race car when I have cleared codes so it will run with as much performance as the computer will allow.
Well, the truck has been down for a couple of days, but it's back in business now. I got the injector replaced, and checked under the valve covers for any issues while it was apart. No issues that I could find - everything looked to be good, and in adjustment according to the Chilton manual.
The injector itself wasn't really visibly gummed up - all that sea foam probably took care of that - I guess it just pooped out on me. The ticking sound seems to be gone too. There's still a slight tick up front, but I'm thinking it's the bearing in the idler pulley, or something else up there. I'll keep tracking that one down.
Codes are cleared, and after a few days of driving I'll see if the good old 33 comes back to haunt me. It's running great at the moment, so we'll see what happens.
...man! Talk about a long ride to the finish (at least I hope this is the finish!)
The injector itself wasn't really visibly gummed up - all that sea foam probably took care of that - I guess it just pooped out on me. The ticking sound seems to be gone too. There's still a slight tick up front, but I'm thinking it's the bearing in the idler pulley, or something else up there. I'll keep tracking that one down.
Codes are cleared, and after a few days of driving I'll see if the good old 33 comes back to haunt me. It's running great at the moment, so we'll see what happens.
...man! Talk about a long ride to the finish (at least I hope this is the finish!)
Last edited by aliens8mycow; Oct 17, 2008 at 09:48 PM.
My '91 302 is starting to stumble once in awhile - usually when it's going at highway speed and then you try to speed up (not enough to shift to passing gear, but speeding up with the rpm's down).
I pulled the codes, and only came up with 33 - EGR opening not detected?
I pulled the EGR valve off the front of the intake, and it was pretty gummed up with black crap. Per the Chilton book, I scraped some of the gunk loose, and put it back on. Whjle doing this, I disconnected the neg battery cable to reset the PCM.
Took her for a drive, and after 10-15 minutes it stuttered just a bit on the highway. Drove it home, pulled the codes, same thing - code #33.
Do I need to replace the EGR valve? I have vacuum. The tube running from the bottom of it to the top of the engine (under the intake manifold) runs to some other valve, right? Which one am I after? Hopefully the one that's easy to get to...
Thanks for your help!
I pulled the codes, and only came up with 33 - EGR opening not detected?
I pulled the EGR valve off the front of the intake, and it was pretty gummed up with black crap. Per the Chilton book, I scraped some of the gunk loose, and put it back on. Whjle doing this, I disconnected the neg battery cable to reset the PCM.
Took her for a drive, and after 10-15 minutes it stuttered just a bit on the highway. Drove it home, pulled the codes, same thing - code #33.
Do I need to replace the EGR valve? I have vacuum. The tube running from the bottom of it to the top of the engine (under the intake manifold) runs to some other valve, right? Which one am I after? Hopefully the one that's easy to get to...
Thanks for your help!
I have a 91 5.0 and the above code ko. I have a strong exhaust leak but the only place I can find one is in the middle of the egr tube going to the lower intake. er codes are 311,327
thanks for any comments



