Finally getting a few days to work on changing out my leaky slave cylinder, leaky water pump and rusting out core support. Today we got quite a bit done - the tranny out, new slave cylinder mounted, and the tranny stabbed back onto the engine. After hearing all of the horror stories of getting those clutch lines disconnected and getting the transmission back on, I was pleasantly surprised we got it all done. Hooked up the clutch line to the new slave, pumped it twice and had full pressure.

The water pump went not as smoothly - we broke the bolt that always breaks on the top right hand side where the coolant passage is located - luckily it broke and left us about 1 inch of bolt sticking out to work with that is embedded in the block. So tomorrow we'll have to extract that, either using heat and vise grips or an extractor. Also broke another bolt from pump to cover, but I am replacing the cover so just need a new bolt. Probably going to need to find all new bolts/studs for the top 4 long ones. All of them look in bad shape.

The timing chain had remarkably little slack in it for a motor with 209k miles. Fairly sure it hadn't been replaced before, because I am pretty certain the timing cover has never come off before.

The other thing I need to do is replace or fix the part shown below - it comes off of the water pump and mates up with either the return or the input heater hose, and it has a little brace on it that bolts into the alternator, and second nipple that feeds a small hose up to the throttle body. The metal part of the hose is fine, but the actual heater hose portion that is held on by compression fitting is SHOT to hell. I can't find a part number on it anywhere except on the fitting, and looking that up gave me nothing. Any help is welcome. More pics below.

 

There's nothing magical about that hose or swaged collar - it's just more-convenient on the assembly line. Cut the Aluminum swage off, rip the hose off, slip on a new stub hose, add a common clamp, and put it back together.

BTW...


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Thanks Steve83....was hoping I could do that.

Hoping my local fastener store has something that will replace those bolts/studs. Is there any reason to replace the studs with studs? The only one I see that is being "used" is the one that sticks through the A/C accessory bracket, and even then it doesn't look mission critical. Might be a helluva lot easier to find just bolts.

 

The original bolts are substantially stronger & more-durable than most replacements; even with the corrosion I can see on yours. These looked about like yours before I wirewheeled & primer/sealed them:


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But if you absolutely have to replace them, the unused stud heads aren't important. They're there for other applications of that engine, where accessories & options are attached.

Not that it matters, but the timing cover you got is the special '96-only version. But it's backward-compatible with your engine, which is why it's sold for older applications. This shows the misfire sensor that goes in those extra bolt holes:


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I picked up some grade 8's this morning from my local parts house. Took all the old bolts down and had them match them up. I don't need to replace them ALL but there are few that have clearly corroded to the point where they have lost thickness. Also picked up some new starter bolts because the old ones were beginning to round out, and a few new bellhousing bolts because the idiots who replaced my clutch 6-7 years ago forgot to put one of the top ones back in . Reason #457 why I do all my own repairs now. Got out the door spending less than $20 and that included heater hose and thread sealant, so if it works, I'm happy.

I noticed the other bolt holes on the timing cover - thanks for pointing out what they were for - I figured it was for a camshaft position sensor or something similar for later model vehicles.

 

Well we got everything put together yesterday with the timing cover and water pump. Went to re-install the harmonic balancer and couldn't get the crankshaft bolt to thread in. The harmonic balancer puller ended up damaging the first couple of threads on the crank. Total rookie mistake using the wrong puller. Gonna have to find a thread chaser large enough, and say a little prayer that it isn't FUBAR.

 

Look for a "back tap" in that thread size.

 

Yep found exactly that at my local parts house. 30 second fix. What a relief! Crankshaft bolt is back in, all pulleys and hoses (except the big ones) re-installed, belt back on. We also removed the factory core support bushings, which may have been the most difficult job of all. But after torching them and getting a second pair of hands, we finally got the turds out. Replacing with Energy suspension black poly. Tomorrow hoping to get the new core support on and get everything buttoned up to start her and look for any leaks.

 

I guess it's too late for you, but for anyone else planning to change the front body mounts, read this & the NEXT few captions:


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Well I hadn't read it yet, but that is basically the exact same procedure I used - only with a big pair of channel locks, 2 guys, and an impact gun. I don't think it would have been possible without the torch, for all the future readers. And I soaked them in penetrating oil every day for 3 days in a row.

I bought the energy suspension body mount kit with all of the hardware because I got it for a killer deal - biggest test today will be getting everything to line up right.