"If" you are preforming the error code scans correctly, The absence of any codes implies ECU failure. On OBD1's, you should at least see an "11" or "111" denoting no active codes present. OBD1's can have active & especially continuous memory codes stored, w/o a "CEL" showing.

 

Mostly at cruise around 40-60 mph. But it comes and goes. There are days it doesn't even jerk. Today I had the coil tested it was good and there were bare wires on the adapter that plugs into the coil so I replaced it. Still a jerk. I'm thinking it's gotta be distributor or module

 

So we got new plugs, wires, cap and button, good coil. I've been trying to try everything before I spent the $110 for the new distributor and module. More than a little frustrated replacing parts that aren't really fixing the problem. Can u think of anything else it could be?

 

I always seem to be the only one that is stuck on measuring engine vac. This is one thing I do first for some reason. But other things I would look at are the map,o2 sensor,timing,egr,fuel pressure,vss. Does this happen more on a hill or giving it more gas? What color is the spark? What leads you to the distributor and module? Usually no codes indicates bad computer but the truck runs bad all the time. You should at lease get 11 code. Read,test read some more and test again if don`t have codes there is a lot to testing to do.

 

The mechanic who scanned my truck led me to the distributor but more so the module under the distributor. He told me that the module can make it jerk. I feel like I'm getting closer because it's jerk is getting milder after replacing the cap and button and the coil adaptor. The violent jerk turned into more of a lerch. I'm gonna try replacing a couple of dry rotted vac lines next. If anything else comes to mind let me know.. Thanks man

 

The vac lines are the problem.

 

Aktech is right. Vacuum testing is basic diagnostic. As is timing check and spark intensity. Those tests could have eliminated all the parts you have purchased so far. If the vacuum lines are broken they need replacing. If you want to verify if they are causing a problem do a vacuum test. Also determine what systems the lines are effecting. Meaning what are they connected to. Another basic test is to examine your spark plugs. Test your EGR system. It operates at no load cruise and could cause missing or jerking.

 

I've actually thought about that and replaced some of the rotted vac lines. Believe it or not it runs rougher with the lines all connected. I'm no where close to a mechanic. How would I go about testing those vac lines? Thanks for your help man

 

EGR system?? Have no idea what that is.

 

It's the valve on the back of your intake.

Read through this
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14...-cruising.html

For testing stuff look through fordfuelinjection.com