1994 F150, 5.0, auto trans, 4x4

I ran a test today. Had a code 332, for egr. I replaced it but the code still comes up. So I'm not sure what is up there, I see no cracked line, etc.

But the other code that came up was 311 during the KOER test. I have replaced the O2 sensor. What is causing this code. It is running rather rough.

Any link between 311 and this......

When I am first taking off it opens up(work with me I am not sure how to describe) real loud, sounds like a Peterbuilt in low gears. Anyway, after the tranny shifts (it is automatic), the noise tames down, power comes back somewhat, but it really sounds like its reving hard on take off, but no power.

Thanks in advance,
JohnnyGillette

 

Also if this helps in any suggestions.
I do live in an area where I don't have to go through emissions. I do want to retain my EGR, but if I have to replace other stuff related to 311 code, would it be better to remove items that might be tripping the code? If so (smog, thermactor, etc) what should I do. I have some mechanical knowledge...with some being the key word. I can usually "get it" once it is explained.

Thanks again,
JohnnyGillette

 

311- thermactor air system inoperative
332- insufficient EGR flow detected

Both of these use solenoids to control them, and all the solenoids require vacuum to function. With both malfunctioning it sounds like you aren't getting vacuum to the solenoids.

 

So do you think it is just a hose? I will look at them..which ones should be the culprit? Some do look brittle, but I didn't see anything alarming. What solenoid is the other called?(not the egr) any part # ?
Thanks Sean, I hoped you were one of the people who might speak up.

Thanks, JohnnyGillette

 

Check all the vacuum hoses, but in particular trace the ones from the solenoids back. The other two solenoids are the TAB (thermactor air bypass) and TAD (thermactor air diverter). Pull the vacuum hoses into the soleniods off and see if they are getting vacuum.

 

I'd have to agree with sean - you'll have a vac line running from the manifold all the way around the back and up to the canister on the passenger fenderwell. From there, it comes back to the egr valve and splits on back around the back of the motor to the solenoids on the drivers side valve cover.

Not only do you have a lot of old plastic lines to trace, there are connectors at each component, on the canister, and a couple around behind the motor. A lot of it was covered in wire loom from the factory, so if that's still there you'll need to get that out of the way to even find the connectors around the back side or to find a crack in a line.

It's a real pain in the *****, but with the motor idling you can trace the lines with starting fluid and see if the idle bumps up. If it does, that's where your line is compromised. If your engine is nice and pretty, maybe use a propane torch (nozzle open, but without the flame).

 

OK. I will be going through it all tomorrow. You are right about the wire loom, and I had "checked" without taking it off...my being lazy. I'll do it completely. I saw an egr (green) line that was split so I made a connector and spliced it together.
I was hoping to be able to get through finals this semester without messing with it to much, I plan on rebuilding it the beginning of summer. But I can live with fixing the hose/line asap, that shouldn't take too long.

Hey while I have your attention. I had a rotten PCV hose. It was one that made a "horseshoe" bend 'round back of the engine. I couldn't for the life of me find a like replacement. I used a length of vacuum line, where can I find the fitted hose like what rotted away?

JohnnyGillette

 

You should be able to get that from your local auto parts store. If they don't have an actual part number for that, have them pull a PCV valve and match the size (3/8" or so?). They should be able to sell you a length of bulk rubber hose that size and you can cut to fit. It just pushes on a barb fitting at each end.

 

OK. So I found another rotted line, replaced it. All else seems to be ok.
Would it be the solenoids themselves??

Thanks again guys
JohnnyGillette

 

Are you getting vacuum to the solenoids now?