We are looking at buying a toy hauler trailer. Our first pick would be a MXT303 by K-Z Manufacturing. http://www.kz-rv.com/mxt/MXT303.html
It has a UVW of 5,770 and GVWR of 8,800 lbs. and is 34' long.


Our truck is a '13 EcoBoost SCAB, 4x2, 6.5' bed with Max tow. The GVWR is 7,500 lbs. CAT scales have the truck at 5,700 lbs. The sticker payload should not exceed 1,967 lbs. The GCWR is 16,900 lbs. We will have 500 lbs. between the myself, the Mrs., 2 dogs, tools etc. in the truck. We will not be carrying much water as we will be staying in campgrounds and we have a road bike so no need for a fuel station.

We will be adding air bags, LT tires, and a Pro Pride 3P hitch.

ANY thoughts about this setup. AM I asking too much out of this 150?

 

Going by the info provided you should be good to go. Assuming a 15% TW on that trailer at max load coupled with the added weight in the truck you should still be under your load capacity. You are also well under your tow load.

Some would say a 3/4 is better suited, and it is, however your truck will handle this tow load.

 

As mentioned, at 15% of max load you should be ok with payload (GVWR) but will exceed your receiver's rating (1150#?) and probably your rear GAWR. Also the Propride is an excellent hitch but quite heavy I am told, so that won't help either. (The Equal-I-Zer 1200# weighs only about 50# but is not as sophisticated as the Propride).

But if you can get the tongue weight less than 15% and/or don't load up the trailer to max, you should be able to get under all Ford's limits even with the Propride.

A tongue weight scale might be useful when positioning the toys in the trailer.

We're towing at the F150 Eco's weight limits, and it runs just fine.

 

When loaded to the hilt, your tongue weight could be as much as 1,320 pounds. 7500 GVWR minus 1320 pounds tongue weight leaves 6,180 pounds max truck weight before you exceed the GVWR of the F-150. My 4x2 SuperCrew with 6.5' bed weighs 6,000, so you must pay attention to the weight you haul in both the truck and trailer so you don't exceed the GVWR of your F-150

6,180 pounds max wet and loaded truck weight plus 8,800 pounds max trailer weight = 14,980 gross combined weight, or well below the 16,900 max.

So GCWR (pulling power) of the F-150 is not a problem with that trailer. GVWR (hauling weight capacity) is iffy. You really need the HD Payload Package with 8,200 GVWR to haul that much tongue weight with no worries about exceeding the GVWR of the F-150

But as brulaz mentioned, check the weight rating of your receiver. There's a sticker or embossing on the frame of the receiver - under the truck. If the max hitch weight rating is less than 1,320 pounds with a weight-distributing hitch, then you should replace the receiver with a heavier-duty receiver before you tie onto that wet and loaded toy hauler.

For LT tires, be sure to get load range E. And be certain your wheels (rims) are rated for the increased weight capacity of the load range E tires, else replace the wheels along with the tires. There are LT tires available that are load range C, which are optional on your F-150. But they don't have any more weight carrying capacity than the P-series tires on your F-150.

The ProPride 3P hitch is an excellent choice. I wish I could afford one. They tow as good as a 5er hitch.

With your 3.73 axle ratio and EcoBoost engine resulting in 16,900 GCWR, you should have no problems with the 8,800 pounds trailer being too much for your F-150 to pull over hill and dale. But your weight-hauling capacity means you need to weigh the wet and loaded rig frequently and keep the hitch and cargo weight down so you don't overload the suspension of your F-150

 

Gents remember he said toy hauler the dry tounge weight percentage is always high on them. When properly loaded with toys, etc the tongue weight percentage will be closer to 12 or 13% which could be up to 200 lbs or so less then calculated for the trailers GVWR.
8500 x 15% = 1275
8500 x 12.5% = 1062
CCC150 - As suggested you may want to invest in a tongue weight scale, or if you will be haluing the same toys every time, head down to the scales weight the trailer disconnected with tongue jack on one scale pad and the trailer axles on another and find the best position for the toys and mark the floor, or take measurements and write them down so you can get the toys positioned the same way every time. Remember you want at least 10% (perferable a little more 12%) of the trailers total weight on the tongue.

 

Thank you gents for all of your input. I should have mentioned that my toy is a 1500 Goldwing weighing 900 lbs. and is 8’7” long. I would think it will be right in the middle of a 10’ garage but not much room front to back. Since a lot of that weight is behind the TH axles, how will that affect tongue weight? Also, why should tongue weight be less with a TH than a regular TT?
The receiver is rated for 1,150 lbs with a WDH.
I was going with the ProPride with thought that if there was sway the 900lbs and the 34’ length would accentuate the sway. So I thought maximum control should be in order even it cost more.
I will be taking your advice on the E-rated tires and a tongue weight scale.

 

Toy haulers come from the factory with a high hitch weight just so you can put something heavy behind the axles, which will reduce it. The further behind the axles, the less the tongue weight.

And you're right about the potential for sway, especially with that Goldwing behind the axle of a 34' trailer. The Propride does sound like a good idea. It will add weight, but maybe you can compensate elsewhere.

 

Some Toyhauler owners will carry a load in their garage, even if they don't intend to use it for a particular trip, just to alleviate some load on the tongue/pin and make for a better tow going down the road. So as Brulaz said, toyhaulers are the heaviest (on the TV) while running empty in the garage.

 

Safety is always 1st in my book, get the proper gear for the job. It is not always the biggest or most expensive that will be the best. E rated tires will provide much better control should you have to make emergency manuvers. However, you may lose ride quality. If you only tow it occasionally then it is realy up to you P vs LT (i.e. E load). If you tow a lot then it is more likely that you will need their additional capacity. As for sway, when properly loaded, i.e. not exceeding TH's recommendation for max weight in the garage you should not have any issues. Again, a tounge jack to confirm tounge weight and maintaining 12% or better minimum Tongue weight to total trailer weight will also decrease the likely hood of sway. One of the other big causes of sway is trailer pitch. If you tow with the tongue a where above level with trailer body it will increase likely hood of sway (it leverages more weight of the tongue and on to the rear of the trailer). I personally perfer towing slightly nose/tongue down again to much, particularly on some multi-axle trailers will increase the likely hood of sway. You will want to load the truck and trailer with gear and your bike (i.e. same as you would have for a trip), find a nice level spot and sent your WDH so that it maintains the trailer tonuge at or close to level when the load bars are installed.