acdii

I may have a set of Sumo 1500's for sale soon. Depends on how my case goes, or if I decide to just trade it. Sure not going to leave them on the truck when it goes.

RichAP

What is the best way to choose between the 1000# & 1500# Sumo Springs?

I tow a 30ft Travel Trailer that is about 6500 loaded with a 2017 XLT 4WD

I am mainly trying to eliminate the porpoising I get on some roads and also help reduce sag.

Rich

Gladehound

I don't know how one would choose with out trying them booth. Or testing one enough to know if you're happy with it.

I just got the 1500# Sumosprings. I put them on with the 1" spacer and only had 1/8" gap before sumosprings would contact the axle. I went on a empty test drive and loved how it didn't seem to roll at all in corners and it felt as stable as an empty 1 ton truck! Then I hit my first small pot hole and it felt as abrupt as a 1 ton truck! I removed the 1" spacers and have just over an inch until they engage. This was enough that it feels completely stock on small pot holes, expansion joints, cracks etc. Every once in a while when I hit a bigger bump I can feel that it's a bit stiffer, but not bad. It rides close enough to stock empty that if someone installed these on my truck in the middle of the night and didn't tell me I never would notice - when empty.

Towing report will have to wait until mid July after we get back from a vacation with the TT. The hitch weight (1,000#) plus and additional 1000+ pounds in the truck should be enough to put the axle on the Sumosprings and compress them just a little. after ~3,000 miles I should have a decent idea on if they feel too stiff, just right or not stiff enough and if the 1500# sumosprings was right choice or if 1000# sumosprings would have been better. But I don't know if you want to wait that long.

acdii

Depends on what weight you plan to haul around with. If you tow with less than 1000 pounds tongue weight, then the 1000# ones will be fine, but if you are more likely to be at 1100# on the tail or bed, the go with the 1500# ones. I matched mine to my Blue Ox springs, both are 1500#.

I pulled mine off Wednesday night along with the bilstiens and just have KYB shocks in the rear. It smoothed the ride out a bit. I think the combination of worn shocks and hard springs were transmitting everything to the cab. At least now the ride is acceptable, too bad I still can't get the steering fixed. I have at least one more week left before I can start looking at a replacement for it. Hanging onto the SS until I do.

Gladehound

Makes sense... it also probably depends on which rear springs you have (3300, 3800, 4050, or 4800). I have the 4,800 rear GAWR. love my rear springs up to about 2,000 pounds of extra load on the rear axle. I got the sumo springs for when I am beyond that (my rear axle reserve is ~2,550 pounds). When loaded with my family, 2 tandem kayaks, 4 mountain bikes, misc. other cargo and 1,000 pounds of hitch weight, I am getting close to the rated limits for my truck. The last time I pulled the camper with ~1,000 pounds on the hitch and ~1,300 on the truck, I got some bouncing. But I still wonder if the 1000# sumo's would have been just right and maybe the 1500# sumo's are overkill??? will know by mid July.

Meetthetwins

I have also installed a set of Sumo springs this spring, went with the 1000lbs and am grabbing the trailer tomorrow so i will be able to provide a report shortly!

RichAP

I have a rear GAWR of 3800 and the SSCC spring code.

Appreciate your feedback!

RichAP

What kind of trailer? What's your Tongue Weight?

RichAP

Dang, after all you went through I thought you had the steering fixed after the last EPAS update.

How many miles did it take to wear out your rear Bilsteins???

acdii

I thought so too, but 8K miles later it went back to doing it, and on a rough road, it is really bad. The rear Bilstiens were worn within 30K miles, maybe even less. They took a beating from the constant vibrations. They haven't leaked, but the valving is compromised, and easy to compress now.