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How should I remove the white from my knuckles?

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Old 09-07-2018, 10:34 AM
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Default How should I remove the white from my knuckles?

Hello! I have a 2009 F150 screw 5.4L 145" wheel base 4WD with max tow and 3.73 rear end. The manufacturer says I can tow up to 11,200ibs when equipped properly. I purchased a 2018 Attitude toy hauler 28IBG the other year and it really measures to 34' long and ways 7,700ibs dry and about 10,500ibs loaded when we go out. With this combination I am getting up to my max for the f150. I use a weight distribution hitch which helps the major squat i get when hooked up but not by much. I also use the side brakes on the freeway to keep from any trailer sway on windy days but I find my front end want to take me on a new path when there is some wind around. On long trips I feel more stressed then relaxed on vacation because I am contently making sure i have both hands on the wheel ready to correct when the wind hits my giant kite I am towing.

Is the front end sway just going to be there because I am towing a wall down the road that ways twice my truck? I am thinking of getting a 2013-14 F150 ecoboost because they sound like they have endless power and I have over 160,000 miles on my 5.4 and it doesn't like to go over 45-50MPH going up a steep grade. If I get a newer tuck is ther anything I should consider that could help? Would getting a regular size bed "screw with 6.5' bed" with 157" wheelbase and 7,700GVWR be something to consider for this? Would the only solution be getting a heavier F250 truck?

I feel the wind is my only problem as on days with no wind the truck performs great!


Old 09-07-2018, 10:52 AM
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Honestly, that is way to much trailer for your truck. I would seriously consider upgrading to a SD. The squat in your bed is really bad.

Just because Ford says you can tow 11k lbs doesn't mean you can actually tow 11k lbs - that number is based on best case 10% - TTs are around 13-15% tongue weight which reduces that number significantly.

What is the tongue weight of that trailer compared to the payload in your door jamb?

Tongue weight + cargo in truck + hitch + passengers weight can't exceed that number.
Old 09-07-2018, 10:58 AM
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Agree, way too much for that truck. I'll spare you with my concerns as I'm sure you'll get lots of them here soon. It appears you're not going to let that TT go and since you're looking to get another TV, get a used SD. If it was me, I'd be getting a 350. Best of luck and be safe out there!
Old 09-07-2018, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Steven Khalilzadegan
Would getting a regular size bed "screw with 6.5' bed" with 157" wheelbase and 7,700GVWR be something to consider for this? Would the only solution be getting a heavier F250 truck?
If you are talking about a 2014 or older F150, the 7700 GVWR is just a max tow truck, basically the same as what you have now, but the newer (2011+) engines are more powerful than your 5.4. The 2015+ HDPP truck have a GVWR of around 7800, similar to the older Max Tow trucks. The 11-14 (and I assume 09/10) HDPP trucks had ~8200# GVWR. At minimum, you're going to need a HDPP truck, but I would be looking at a SD.
Old 09-07-2018, 11:23 AM
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Odds are you are over on your payload / gawr / hitch weight rating, if that matters to you. Based on your pic you have a ton of weight on the rear end of your truck.....very little is going to help with your situation.

Things that 'could' 'help':
- you said you have a WDH, but what quality / weight rating. Often having a cheap or underrated WDH doesn't help the way it should
- normally I would say Timbren/sumosprings/airbags but you have so much squat that it may screw with your WDH settings to a point you can't nail it down
- used superduty
- used/new F150 with HDPP.....may get you there
- new superduty.....love me a new superduty
Old 09-07-2018, 11:49 AM
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At 13% tongue weight you're over 1400lb with the weight of a WDH. Not sure what your payload is on the truck, but you might have enough left for a driver. The trailer looks like its also taking all the weight off your steer axle, which might be helped with hitch settings. This will contribute to the front end wandering you're experiencing. As said, and completely IMO, you need more truck. Take the trailer to the scales loaded and see how it weighs out. From there, decide what you need with that plus the occupants/cargo in your truck during a normal haul. As mentioned a 350 would be nice. If you look at 250s, dont overlook the fact that the diesel option eats up a lot of available payload. 250 gasser or 350 would be nice. Based on the picture, I can imagine it wouldn't be much fun to tow.

Last edited by TellyDSP; 09-07-2018 at 12:22 PM.
Old 09-07-2018, 11:54 AM
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Thank you guys! You are all confirming things i dont want to tell my self out loud lol It sounds like a SD is the way to go but i just didnt want to make the switch. A big part of the major squat the truck shows here was the addition of the new fox 2.0 shocks front and back that i just added that enhanced the problem. The front end was lifted 2.5" with the new coil overs which is not really what I wanted. The rear axle rating per the door jam is 4000ibs and the trailer says its 1,060ibs of hitch wait but I am assuming that is dry. I do have E rated tires that are wider then stock and was thinking of adding airbags into the mix if i did another F150 but now i feel if I buy an F150 I may just end up with the same situation.

Here is a photo of the truck pre fox shocks


Old 09-07-2018, 11:57 AM
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What is your payload? The sticker is dry weight out of the factory. Your best bet is to get it weighed. What does your yellow payload sticker in your truck say?

1) TV and TT disconnected
2) TV and TT connected w/WD bars off
3) TV and TT connected w/WD bars on
Old 09-07-2018, 11:59 AM
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WAY over payload. That's why your steering is all messed up. Not enough weight on the front wheels.

Since you say you might shop for another truck, find out what the tongue weight is on that trailer. Look for a truck with much more payload and can still tow that weight based on the towing guides (Google Ford Towing Guides). And make sure tongue weight and weight of everything in the truck falls within the payload limit. Then you should be good.

EDIT: Also make sure the hitch itself can support the weight. There's usually a sticker underneath it that says the max weight capacity.

Last edited by BlackBoost; 09-07-2018 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 09-07-2018, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Steven Khalilzadegan
Thank you guys! You are all confirming things i dont want to tell my self out loud lol It sounds like a SD is the way to go but i just didnt want to make the switch. A big part of the major squat the truck shows here was the addition of the new fox 2.0 shocks front and back that i just added that enhanced the problem. The front end was lifted 2.5" with the new coil overs which is not really what I wanted. The rear axle rating per the door jam is 4000ibs and the trailer says its 1,060ibs of hitch wait but I am assuming that is dry. I do have E rated tires that are wider then stock and was thinking of adding airbags into the mix if i did another F150 but now i feel if I buy an F150 I may just end up with the same situation
If the 10,500# loaded weight of the trailer (per post #1) is correct, you are likely closer to 1450# or more of hitch weight. This is probably overloading the hitch by at least 25%. And keep in mind, that 4000# RAWR is the total weight at the rear axle. You likely already have a couple thousand pounds on it (at least) before adding the trailer.


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